squam1 Posted April 26, 2004 Share Posted April 26, 2004 posted in the 96 up area already, but just wondering if anyone knows if the warn manual hubs will work with the 2002+ LE 17inch wheels - I just popped the center cap off and it looks as though the wheel opening is too small in diameter to allow the hub through - but that is just a guess - I have no idea how large the hubs are in reality... I'll have to get the hubs at some point so that I can get and install a lift of some sort (along with a tjm bumper, larger tires... etc etc...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
statikuz Posted April 26, 2004 Share Posted April 26, 2004 You say "I'll have to get the hubs..." Am I missing something? How come you HAVE to get manual hubs before you install a lift... other than it might just be a good idea... I wasn't of the assumption that it was a requirement. =) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted April 26, 2004 Share Posted April 26, 2004 I would think that if Warn were making manual hubs for certain vehicles, changing the wheels to get the hubs to fit wouldn't be a good idea on their part. They should fit on a vehicle with factory wheels. And no, you don't HAVE to have manual hubs for a lift, but it's a good idea, much better than the stock auto's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squam1 Posted April 26, 2004 Author Share Posted April 26, 2004 I know I don't "have" to get the hubs, but in the end, they are the intelligent choice instead of making frequent cv repairs... my understanding, from what I've read here and on other forums is that without the manual hubs, I'm likely to tear the boots in short order after installing the lift. This is my daily driver as well and will be seeing 65 mile round trip commutes every day... The boost in mileage would be nice too, but I guess the only way to find out is to buy them and see if I can fit them through the wheel center prior to installation on the truck. The hubs on the 99+ pathys are full time - no auto locking - they are permenantly engaged, so if I don't swap them out, the front axles will alway be spinning and with the 2" lift, my guess is the cv boots will be rubbing on themselves... If someone said to me, you can run the lift without manual hubs, keep your perm hubs, and you'll get 40,000 miles out of the cv joints/boots (I only have 30k on the truck now...) - then I'd just skip it... point is - if it will save me $$ and headaches down the road - AND the hubs will fit my stock 17" rims, then why not do it?? If I can still have somewhat decent longevity out of the cv boots and joints without the hubs, then I'm content to wait... then I can just spend the dough on something else!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel Boy Posted April 26, 2004 Share Posted April 26, 2004 Just make sure it isn't full time 4X4 before you go playing with the hubs!!! Like 88 said, if they make a hub for your modle and year they will fit. If your trying to match some up from some where cause they don't make them for your year/model then you could be right about the clearences. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted April 26, 2004 Share Posted April 26, 2004 The hubs on the 99+ pathys are full time - no auto locking - they are permenantly engaged, so if I don't swap them out, the front axles will alway be spinning and with the 2" lift, my guess is the cv boots will be rubbing on themselves... Ah, you're referring to the front axle drive flanges. Right you are, they're always locked because the t-case disconnects the front diff in 2WD and that's the way they decided to build them. Good point, but I'd hope that CV boots would last longer than 30-60K even with a 2" lift, which isn't all that much if you see it up close. Mine finally ripped at about 135,000 miles, and I have every reason to believe they were original. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squam1 Posted April 26, 2004 Author Share Posted April 26, 2004 88 - that's the kind of info I didn't have before - much appreciated... from what others have posted in the past, it sounded like one wouldn't be able to get more than about 6 months before the boots started to let go cause the fins would rub... if I can get to 80 or 100k with a lift and no manual hubs without replacing stuff, then it's a no brainer... Diesel - I have the All-Mode 4WD, which is 2WD, AWD, 4HI and 4LO... so no worries about messing with a fulltime 4WD... Thanks for the info! guess the only other question in my mind is - what is the strength of the factory hubs/flanges as compared to warn or mile marker hubs...?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squam1 Posted April 26, 2004 Author Share Posted April 26, 2004 here's the wheel... (took the pic from ebay - it's pouring outside!) - now that I am wondering about the whole manual hub thing, I'm a little obsessed about the issue... I may just have to buy the things to see if they fit just to satisfy my curiosity... I'm a little obsessive compulsive when it comes to my truck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squam1 Posted April 26, 2004 Author Share Posted April 26, 2004 here's a better pic of the wheel center in question - if it ever dries up outside I'll take my own pic with a ruler maybe, then it will be a little more clear as to how tight the center hole is... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted April 26, 2004 Share Posted April 26, 2004 Well, the question about part strength isn't the issue here, really. It's all about selectability. The stock drive flanges won't break on you, they're solid pieces of machined steel and aluminum(but I have been wrong before ). The Warn or Milemarker manual hubs are selectable so you can decide whether you want the axles engaged or not, period. Both options are good, both options are strong, and you'll definitely get better gas mileage with the manual hubs because the front axles won't have to be spinning fulltime, causing drivetrain drag from parts that aren't under power. I don't think CV boot wear will be a real issue until a while down the road(again, I have been wrong before, heh). Rubber compounds are amazingly resilient stuff, think of how many miles are put on your tires before they wear out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted April 26, 2004 Share Posted April 26, 2004 By the way, here's a whole page of pics and stuff from Dean Thayer's Pathfinder's hub install. http://groups.msn.com/xplorx4/modwarnpremiummanualhubs.msnw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squam1 Posted April 26, 2004 Author Share Posted April 26, 2004 88 - you must have been reading my mind cause I was on that site for about 20 minutes before I posted last night - he's got some great pics of all the stuff he has done. I spose you're right about the cv joints/boots... worst thing that can happen is that I don't put manual hubs in and the joints wear out and need to be replaced prematurely... I can always wait for that to happen... then all I would have to do is get the lift as well as the wheels and tires I want for when I head off road... (but still want a tjm t17 bumper, eventually a winch and a whole slew of other do-dads). Thanks again for the great advice. I'll let you know how it goes... gonna order the lift as soon as the tax refund comes in... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big_johnson Posted April 27, 2004 Share Posted April 27, 2004 Sounds like its all been covered here, but I'll throw in a few things. Its not only the 99+ pathys with the drive flanges, its the 96+. I just installed warn manuals on my 97 pathy yesterday, and they are great. I spun the wheel by hand with the hub both locked and unlocked, there was a big difference in drag. Right now, I have 170 miles to the halfway mark on the tank, as opposed to usually 155. I'll have to see what the overall mileage is at the end of the week. Just thought I'd throw this info in here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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