SamTex

Wow. I have nothing to offer in the form of advice, only my condolences. Hope you get it "back in black" ...mmm hmmm, AC/DC still rocks.

And as far as fitment issues without a body lift, I'm sure they would work without a body lift. Its just that these things are so long you can't get them in without lifting the body up. Once installed or at least placed, the body can come back down and you have no problems.

I did it all prior to the body lift and with a 90 degree drill. Two were snapped flush(requiring drill and extrude) and one had enough meat left on it I just used some vice grips. That drill saved my ass, and with a wire wheel made cleaning the old gasket material a cake walk. If you already have a body lift it should be a lot easier. If you have one sitting in the box like I did, i would recommend installing it prior

Whats the backspace on your wheels and width of the tires?

o2

Yup! He welded a new bung a little further back than the stock location. That is actually something I was going to ask you guys about after I looked into it further. It's not an issue so far, logged about 400 miles since, no CEL. It runs good, but I'm still using the stock cat and muffler, so I wasn't expecting a huge difference. Even though it seems a little peppier it may just be in my head A nice wrap job on these headers would be beneficial to reduce noise, they have tin can sound but I'm already used to it. I would guess if you had a high flow cat and muffler you wouldn't hear much of anything...

Ha, still looks Y'ish to me? I need to get a shot of what he did with the cat, where you see the new Y,T, what have you, is where the cat used to be.

Here are pics of the finished job. Because of my mistake with the first guy and the amount of material/time the second guy used, this was definitely NOT a cheap route. A plus however is that the tranny pan and the transmission itself can drop without having to touch the exhaust. And as you can see from that last pic, the next time I high center on something I won't be worried about damaging any of it. I was wrong about the collector size of the headers, I put new clamps on and the 2" are what worked, not sure of the inside diameter. If you have these headers or get them, do not use the clamps supplied. Both of them leaked, those two dollar clamps at O'Reilly's work like a charm.

I'm not sure of the diameter at the collector, I think it's 2.5". They did come with gaskets, I went ahead and used some copper silicone along with them. They also came with two clamps, but that is it. I will get pics of the rest tonight when I get home and post them up tomorrow. Found them on ebay after someone here mentioned them, snagged 'em for 170 plus 20 shipping.

I've been doing a lot of work to my truck, basically took it from a parts truck to my daily driver. It was time for a new inspection sticker. I knew it had a few broken manifold studs but figured this didn't really matter since the county I live in is a non emissions county, and the noise sealed up pretty well once the engine was warm. However the day I took it in was a cold one(for Texas) and I had to wait for the car in front of me, so the engine wasn't very warm when the tech got to it. This made it immediately obvious there was a tick coming from the manifolds. Damn, more work, more money. Regardless of emissions, an exhaust leak is a safety issue. Looking for a cheaper way out and seeing as nobody here or anywhere else has installed them, I bought these bottom dollar OBX headers and looked forward to the install. I removed all the exhaust down to the pre cats. I had three broken studs total. Got a hold of a cheap 90 degree Ryobi drill and went to work. That drill made it cake to remove the studs and did a great job cleaning the old gasket material off the heads with a wire brush wheel. Once cleaned up I attempted a test fit. Uh oh, these will not go in without lifting the body off the frame or really making a mess of the firewall. Luckily I had my 3in. body lift sitting in a box ready for install. After I did the body lift, these headers had no problem going in. The quality is just fine IMHO, but these definitely don't make it easy. They are long tubes and all you get are the headers, no cross pipes, h pipes, y pipes or otherwise. I found out the hard way the pass side header comes too far back and down to put a cross pipe back where the stock one goes under the tranny pan and to the y pipe. My nightmare began. I took it to a fella just down the road that has been around forever. I explained what I needed, we got it on the lift, discussed it, and he got to work. To my horror when I got the truck back, it had four exhaust leaks and the cross pipe he made was four inches, I say FOUR inches below the cross members of the frame. The LOWEST point of anything on my truck, the exhaust. Not gonna work, I would rip that crap off in minutes if I actually tried to wheel the thing. Not to mention the leaks. I'm just gonna skip the rest of this story, there is a lot more. I then found Joe of Joe's Muffler's in Addison, Tx. Down the road from where I work. I loved this guy. He knew what he was doing and very easily picked up how important this exhaust job was to me and that I wanted it right. He laughed his ass of at the last guys job. Joe thought about it and looked at my truck for days, I didn't mind 'cause I wanted it right. He came up with a plan that I agreed on. I'll have to get pics later today or tomorrow of his work. He moved the cat closer to the muffler and cut the pre cats off. Bent new pipe to run back the length of the transmission and made a new y pipe that tied together where the drive shaft starts. It's all out of the way and comes apart easily when I go to remove my tranny. Here are some pics of the headers and the headers installed. Instead of studs(no way I'm paying anything over a dollar a pop for fasteners, what a rape job otherwise) I just used grade 8 bolts bought at home depot, i think .54 cents each. Perfect fit/length/whatever. M8x1.25x30 IIRC And pay no attention to my steering shaft, I wasn't done with it yet <BR><BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR>

I had a total of three broken studs, luckily only one was sheered off completely(driver side closest to radiator), the others had enough left on them for vice grips to do the trick(driver and pass side closest to firewall).

It's not hard to replace, but you will have to remove the passenger seat to get to it.

Pre-cat!

I had a similar issue with my temp gauge. It would just barely rise past the Cold mark, but felt perfectly warm from the vents. It would idle like it was cold regardless of how warm it was. I replaced the engine coolant temperature sensor to no avail, then I replaced thermal transmitter located right next to it. Thermal transmitter was my culprit

I put a 125A Quest alty in mine. It's noisy if I get it dirty, but no issues yet. Whats the difference between a sealed unit and one that is open? Is there a reason they need to breath? If mud is such an issue and they do need to breath, could you put cloth bag over it in some fashion? Like the outer wear of an intakes cone filter?

That's exactly what I get as well...AT, 31's, not sure of the ratio

You sure love that old Camaro.....

x2 I have a '95 SE with both driver and pass heated leather....unplugged.

Has that tire sat flat in the rain recently? My truck was sitting on some deflated tires for the past few months, when I finally got back to working on it and went for a few test drives I couldn't figure out my wobble issue, everything was tight...hoohaa cl, new TRE's, lower and upper ball joints were solid, new bushings on both my compression rods, no slack anywhere. At slow speeds I could hear a strange sound, but couldn't figure it out. Took my tires to a tire shop, found a half gallon or so of water in one of my tires and a few cups in the other. Cleaned 'em out, drives like a wet dream.