madhakish
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Posts posted by madhakish
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New shoes mounted up after way too long of a wait.. now what to do about those rusty rockers..
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I actually zinged a crank pully off a KA hardbody once. You shoulda heard the bang when it hit the skid!
That'll wake you up.
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If it is, they didn't kill it for '15 as they had them at the car show last week.
Looks basically the same. Was crawling around and noticed there are still relatively few differences between the xterra's and the old pathys, even now 20 years later.. Similar suspension (w/ bilstein shocks).. Lots of nice options on the xterra but I just feel beholden to my '93 for some damned reason.. -
Looks like i'll have to take a closer look when i get into the tbelt/water pump/thermostat next week.. :|
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Same. Temp fix seems to be holding well and amperage/resistance are staying within norms. Hope to dig into the complete repair this weekend or next.
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I've often wondered about this and dug around a little bit. Alkorahil gave me the rundown..
"To add cruise control you will need:ASCD Controller $373.58
ASCD Actuator $373.53
ASCD Vacuum pump $351.55
bulk vacuum hose
Brake ASCD Cancel switch
relay
ASCD power switch
Combination switch
I have never added one to a vehicle, there is no 'kit' provided by Nissan to add it on, but the harnesses should all be there already, just not used. You will need to verfify all of this of course.
It would be much less to try this from salvage yeard parts, they are very expensive new, even at the wholesale prices."
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Was working on the steering pump and while taking the belt off I noticed something seems to have broken off a casted part underneath the pulleys.. thoughts on what it was? It would appear I have a slow oil leak running to that point as well judging by the small drip forming..
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As I had a post a while ago about fuel pumps and so have others, I'm glad everyone has a fire extinguisher ready.
Justin Case.
That and the resistor packs by the squirrel cage!!
Though, if that thing did go up with my face hovering over it, it probably wouldn't have much mattered at that point.
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My former 94 drove so good with the Falken's on it !
I've been puddle crashing around all day, we've got some lakes forming due to the rapid melt off. Quiet on the road, dumps water like a fire-truck, and MUCH better traction in snow/ice than the destinations.. I was a little iffy about them at first and all my other buddies swear by DuraTrac's, but quite frankly I think this was the right choice. Can't stand the noise of the BFG DT's (have done several 8-10 hour road trips to the UP from MN in my buddies jeep gc, a wrangler, and a silverado all running bfg's) but these Falkens are *quiet*.
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Picked up the hardware for mounting new standoffs.
5x 1.5"L 1/8"W machine screws
5x 1/2"W nylon standoffs - tight fit to the screws above15x hex 1/8" hex nuts
Each screw will use 3 nuts to hold the assembly together.
I'll drill out each connector to the diameter of the nylon and epoxy that in place, and crimp/solder ring connectors to the internal wiring and screw each ring connector down using the first nut. Then pass each screw through the nylon standoff, mounting it with yet another nut and epoxy the whole thing together from the top w/ gasoline safe silicone on the underside of the cap.. Because this is the internal connection for the sender it won't be serviceable so we don't care about the bolt being permanently affixed to the fuel sender. Once the epoxy is dry I'll have 5 standoff's approx 1/4" in length protruding from the fuel sender cap and one hex nut for each standoff. Ring connectors on each wire from the factory harness and another hex nut will complete the job. Hopefully I can get this taken care of this weekend. -
Pics will have to wait until I can get some gas out of the tank and have a bit more free time.. Moving in a week so things are largely packed up ATM. This was a quick fix out of necessity so it's not what I want it to be as I don't have access to all my normal tools and work space, but it's sturdy, and most importantly safe and functional for the time being. Should have taken some during the process but I was crunched for time and didn't think to document the process. Until then I'll try to diagram it and take a few pics from the top as it exists now.. I think I'm going to go with the 5 bolt plan leaving a standoff for each wire making it easier to fix the wiring harness at the same time. My wiring was corroded nearly back to the plug..
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I've used many things to lube the carrier hinges, and yes, even WD40 will work ok for a while (and is the easiest) but what worked amazingly well for me was applying a little bit of Lucas Oil Stabilizer to the top and bottom of the hinges with an acid brush (dab it in the hole as well), let it sit for a day to creep, then open and closed it a few times to distribute it and wipe away any residue off. The LOS is like honey in consistancy, and the tire carrier opens so easily now that I have to be careful that it doesn't swing all the way open and hit hard on the stops. Probably the next best thing to zerks and grease.
B
+1 for LOS - that stuff is liquid gold. Added a 1/2 bottle of the HD when I was topping up the (manual) tranny fluid as well.
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Over the weekend..
New tires: Falken Rocky Mountain 31x10.5x15New wheels: Standard D-window steel 15x8, black.
New Centerlink (napa "master chassis") - will probably use the old unit as a core for a hoo-haa when funds free up, and keep the master chassis as a stock spare if I ever sell her.
New TRE's/sleeve - driver side (previous one was fine, but the sleeve/lock nuts had seized and the alignment guy couldn't break it free)New UBJ's - Napa/555
New LBJ - Napa/555
New front sway links/bushings
Passenger door handle
Drivers/passenger interior light toggle switches (pick n pull find!)Fuel sender wiring repair - need to come up with a more permanent repair..
Alignment
Re the Falken's - huge improvement over the Firestone Destination A/T's I've been running for about 2 years now. They are *not* snow/winter rated tires, but neither were the firestones. Much better overall traction/feel. 31/10.5/15 instead of the stock size for the chrome steelies definitely makes a difference in overall road feel. Looking forward to the new wheels.
Phew.
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the black was originally connected to the short blue/red stripe wire. When I got done it connected straight to the ground wire from the pump. A word of advise if you do plan on rebuilding it, use PTFE coated wire if I remember correctly. The gas will eat most wire insulators from what I've heard, and bare wires in the tank are a no-no.
May want to double check the grounding. The ground wire from the pump appears to be attached to the blue/red connector internally, but the external ground wiring is connected directly to the top of the fuel sending unit as noted in one of the pictures in the forum post I linked to.
Anywho - until I can procure some ptfe coated wire, or execute the fix I just posted, I've run the primary power wire out the hole and made the connection external from the sender unit, sealing the hole w/ gas safe sealant.
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Mods:
Might not be a bad idea to sticky a post with this information. I'll make sure to post some pictures of both the damage I saw and the repair performed, but at the very least I would hate to see someone (or someone's pathy) burn up because a wire corroded inside their fuel tank which led to a failure of the insulation and a spark.** IMPORTANT FIRE HAZARD WARNING **
Until looking at the fuel sender I would have never given it a second though. The connector was so severely corroded it had come loose from it's linkage (a kind of rivet connection) and the plastic housing had completely broken off leaving it free to spin, loosely connected.. When I pulled back the carpet and removed the top and had the gf turn the key to see if I could hear the pump, it immediately became so hot the plastic on the wire began to melt and smoke. Only after removing all power and removing the sender unit and the pump did I realize that the exact same thing was happening on the INSIDE connector, INSIDE my fuel tank filled with nearly 20 gallons of gasoline. Melted connectors, melted plastic on the wire, and the plastic backing for the plate the internal wire was connected to had very nearly completely melted. I can only imagine what would have happened had I continued to crank the key in desperate hopes it would start, say, in the gas station lot it stalled on me in, had I not identified the problem when I did.. -
** IMPORTANT FIRE HAZARD WARNING **
Until looking at the fuel sender I would have never given it a second though. The connector was so severely corroded it had come loose from it's linkage (a kind of rivet connection) and the plastic housing had completely broken off leaving it free to spin, loosely connected.. When I pulled back the carpet and removed the top and had the gf turn the key to see if I could hear the pump, it immediately became so hot the plastic on the wire began to melt and smoke. Only after removing all power and removing the sender unit and the pump did I realize that the exact same thing was happening on the INSIDE connector, INSIDE my fuel tank filled with nearly 20 gallons of gasoline. Melted connectors, melted plastic on the wire, and the plastic backing for the plate the internal wire was connected to had very nearly completely melted. I can only imagine what would have happened had I continued to crank the key in desperate hopes it would start, say, in the gas station lot it stalled on me in, had I not identified the problem when I did..
Phew. Ok. I just performed this repair on my sender unit, only I just did the primary power wire which was severely corroded and loose fitting which very nearly started a fire which was only realized after removing the entire fuel assembly. I popped the connector and ran the primary power wire through the cap, then soldered/heat shrunk the connection to newly spliced in wiring. Also re-attached the ground wire to the plate with a screw and siliconed the connections.In hindsight, and thinking about how to make this design better for the remaining connections, as well as shore up the quick repair job i just did, I am considering adding eyelets to each internal wire, and passing a bolt through from the inside to the outside using a plastic standoff and washers to insulate the bolt from the sender cap itself, filling the gap w/ gasoline safe sealant or epoxy. Place another plastic washer and a nut on the end of the bolt to secure it to the fuel sender cap and lock the internal wiring in place. Adding a lock nut on top of that to secure it and epoxy/tack weld it. That would leave 4 posts on top of the sending rail, one each wire from the harness. One could then use nice ring connectors and make a new wiring harness out of much more heavy duty materials. Each stud would be well insulated from the metal sending unit cap, and from each other, and would result in a much more heavy duty and serviceable unit than factory. One could pass another bolt through for the ground next to the 4 power wires..
There's a '94 at the pick n pull I was going to go salvage a new unit from, perhaps i'll grab it and use it as a testbed for the above design.
This would provide 4 heavy duty posts to connect some fresh wiring. Regarding the wiring from the harness to the pump, the entire length of it was corroded. Will be popping each connection out and running brand new 16ga wire from the connector to the pump after i'm done. -
Found a clear picture of all the wires attached like stock here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/28592-fuel-senderpump-unit-switched-out-1993-wd-21-pathfinder/
Mine is dangling, looks like it needs to be soldered back onto the top itself, next to the 4 prongs. FYI, having that bad ground likely led to the unit being over-amp'd and burning itself up from what I'm reading on other fuel pump related threads. I can tell you mine was making the 15A fuse I used to get home so hot I couldn't hold it after pulling it out when I got it home. -
Found a pic here - i can see it was originally attached directly to the cap, next to the 4 wires. Heading over to the truck w/ my soldering kit now.
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It's not clear to me where the black ground wire is connected. From the second picture it appears black is connected to blue/red on the 2nd post from the fuel rail? From the 3rd pic, this would appear to match where the large black wire on the underside is connected. Can you confirm this is how they are connected? I've got 5 wires, and 4 posts, with the black ground wire having had it's connector rot away so it's just dangling.
I'm pretty sure I'm about to have to complete this repair, as my fuel sender looks to be in similar condition, heavily corroded. -
Thanks, it's pretty badly corroded, I'll string a new 16ga in its place..
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Curious if you happen to have a picture of how all 5 wires are connected.. I've got a stray black wire that broke off..
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Well this is a very new problem. My fuel pump suddenly began blowing it's fuse. Replace the fuse, ran for a while, blows again.. finally sitting at the gas station it simply died while idling and never started again. Too the cover off the fuel tank area and inspected the wiring which was pretty corroded and there are 5 wires, one of which is not connected. There are 4 going to terminals on the sending unit, and one black wire dangling..
A.) Did my fuel pump finally just give up the goat?
B.) Wtf is that lone black wire doing not connected to anything?
What's the reality of replacing that thing covered in rust vs. Just replacing the entire tank? It's all badly rusted back there..
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Eff that plastic cup bushing thing, mine failed and I made one from an old socket and a washer I welded together. Snug as a bug
I find myself wanting to replace more and more brittle-yet-important plastic parts with steel alternatives. My door lock mechanism is currently the bane of my existence. Such an important function, felled by such a tiny, crappy little piece of plastic.
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There are two plastic bushings that affect shifter alignment. One is on the very end of the shift lever (control lever bushing - 32861) and the other is a plastic cup where the ball on the shift lever sits (control lever socket - 32850). There are various other springs in there that may also affect how tight the shifter feels. Be careful when removing the old control lever bushing. It is a serious PITA to remove and if you score the shift lever it will wear out the new bushing quickly. You could always just pull the entire lever/top plate from the good transmission and bolt it in place of yours.
Looking at the diagrams, I can tell you that 32850 is in fact in good condition, as that's the part that I can see the ball of the shift lever connect to and it's in tact, no play, etc. My guess would be 32861 is shot. Based on the amount of movement, I would be willing to bet the housing for the shift control assembly is no longer tightly coupled to the rest of the assembly. Everything from the snap rings down to the shift control socket the ball of the lever fits into are tight and in good shape but I can't say I've ever ventured beyond that point.
Help 1994 misfiring/stumbling
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
FWIW, mines at 240k miles and I'm hoping for another 100k from her. Runs like a top, too.
Good find on the wire and not diving straight into timing belt/injector swaps..
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