magregor
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Posts posted by magregor
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I bought a 110v 70a welder from Princess Auto for $250.00 that has 4 heat settings and an awesome duty cycle with thermal protection (haven't hit it yet) and rebuilt 2 Pathy frames, built 2 Safari Racks (working on 3rd for Adamzan), bumper fabs, exhaust and sheet metal work and have had no issues with penetration. As for up to 1/4", I would probably invest in a 220v 180amp Mig with the leased inert gas tank (for nice clean welds and longer duty cycle). But for the backyard hobby mechanic, a flux cored, 110 v 70amp welder is a perfect setup.
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I like "Mud Out"
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keep it. there are reasons it's there from the factory.
main reason is for heat and noise insulation...There are theories that it is also for fire suppression...if an engine fire occurs, the plastic clips melt, allowing for the "hood insulator" to fall on the engine, assisting in the smothering of the fire. If it were me, I would just take it out...if my engine caught on fire, a mat isn't going to save the harness and other valuable parts from melting away... :02:
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Welcome Maikan!
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So we have a 5 control arm rear suspension in our WD21 Pathfinders, not a 5 link suspension? A 3 or 4 link suspension isn't a 3 or 4 link, but a 3 or 4 control arm suspension? No, Rusty's has the wrong terminology.I wouldn't trust anyone named rusty.WTF?
I think this is what Adam was quoting...
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Soooo, I put a set of R50 rims on my Pathy and just recently discovered this grinding noise in the front end when I turn the wheels sharp either way...I found out that the inside flange of the rim is rubbing on the tie rod end...Any recommended sites or ideas to bring the offset out about 1/2" or more?
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That is AWESOME!!! Imagine blowing that at an old lady/man on the highway! It would scare the hell outa them! If you had a safari rack, you could mount it to the side of it, like below a shovel or high-boy...
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You had mentioned the other night when you were over that they usually are really good at their work and standing by it...I guess this is gonna tell you whether or not that is really true...
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Howdy!
Originally from Nova Scotia (born and raised in the BEAUTIFUL Annapolis Valley)...but moved to the Ottawa Valley 3 yrs ago...I miss the ocean!
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keep the hold-down clips for the hood insulator, as in the future, you stumble across an alternative, you have the fasteners
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Before dropping the pan, pull the dipstick and check the color and smell of the tranny fluid...if it warrants a flush, drop pan and proceed...as the pan isn't the easiest to drop and check for chunks... :02:
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rip'er out
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2004 Chevy (Daewoo) optra5...
Custom cold air intake
Cat back exhaust
not much else...Just a commuter...
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With mine, I just get the 'ol cheap aftermarket stuff like TKW or Wagner, etc...My thoughts are..."they are a heck of alot better than what came out and easier to change if they break, as I just recently put them in!
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Keep in mind that on linked suspension systems your drag link and track bar need to pivot on the same plane to eliminate bump steer which can be related to your death wobble issue. Therefore, when you put in a drop pitman arm, you must also drop the track bar on the frame side. i know Rubicon Express makes them.
Also check your caster, with that much lift it's probably a bit out of whack, but it can be fixed with adjustable links. if you don't have adjustable links, then try just taking the 2" spacers out to see if it goes away to find your problem.
X2 here...Adjustable links would also be good help to bring your axle back to the proper alignment as well. It does look nice a nice project though! Personally, buying something that is "out of the box" is less fun than buying something that needs a bit of playing around with...regardless of whether it is a Pathy or whatever!
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Bring it over Adam and we can stick a light on it to see if the timing is ok...but yup, I would take it back...the Cats wouldn't clog while they were replacing the belt! I think that is a cop out on their part!
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whats a license got to do with anything? i havent had a drivers license in 2 years but i drive everyday!
Wow, no license and non-registered Pathy...You're on a roll!
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So I went for the...Inspection...was gonna throw in a few 4 letter words, but decided to wait. There were a few things to fix that I overlooked...One of them was the Neutral Safety switch...(well, I always push in the clutch before I start it anyways, so had no idea it didn't work!)...I checked the switch for continuity...it's fine...so I checked the voltage on the plug...10.9 mv...yes, millivolts! Before I start tearing apart the harness to chase these 2 wires...anyone have/had similar issues?
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The ones that were on my black '95 mounted to the front body mount bolts and the rear had a plate that went inside the 4-link pivot attached to the frame. I would have to agree with Adam on that one.
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Network & Infrastructure Engineer for Nova Networks in Ottawa...pretty happy where I'm at and what I'm doin
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There are some nasty angles on the steering linkage! You might want to modify the pitman arm with an aftermarket dropped one...That would be my first try...
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Nova Scotia Community College (Annapolis Campus)
-Entrepreneurship and Small Business Management
Middleton, Nova Scotia
1993-1994
NSCC (Kingstec Campus)
-Information Technology
-Server Management
-Network Infrastructure & Architecture
Kentville, Nova Scotia
1997-1999
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Here is a couple pics of my youngest trying to "help"
Air horn extravaganza
in The Garage
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I suppose you could just use a cheap 'ol emergency pump that plugs into your cig lighter for tires to refill the tank as well! That would save some sort of compressor hook-up...