Huck

Good to know. Can't wait to start slingin' mud again.

Ahh, the cheap way. I like it! Just sludge in the oil channels/lifters or something like that.

Yeah, I'm lucky for what happened. The sucky part is I have to take off all those damed hoses with the plenum because the lifter noise is on the driver's side.

Well, it's been a few months now. I re-timed the valves four times (fourth time with help from a guy who's done a couple). Note: there are three marks on the timing belt and they're all three very important, 'nuff said. It fixed the problem. The timing belt must've slacked enough to slip a cog. It passes the compression test on all six cylinders at 120psi (+/- 10psi). Now I have a lifter making a racket from sitting there without oil too long. Easy fix. Got rain making mud out there right now. Wish I was at Portal Pit throwin' some around... Better not push my luck.

Yes, all the spark plugs are out. I wasn't able to turn it through the compression stroke by hand with the sparkies in. The feeling is way different between the compression stroke and the firm stop I get from the oil pump.

UPDATE!!! Timing belt was a little loose. Went through the timing and re-timed the valves. Went by the book all the way. Rolled the engine through by hand and I'm still getting resistance randomly (never in the same crank position). My mechanic buddy said "All that leaves is your oil pump." I guess since I have the whole front end apart, putting a new oil pump on (at 183k miles) isn't so bad.

LOL! Damn gremlins....

Here's what NAPA has. In case you couldn't tell, I really like NAPA.

I'm pretty sure if there was something wrong with a sensor, it would spit out a code. The Pressure Regulator however, is vacuum controlled. It doesn't have anything to do with the computer. It can make the system create too much or not enough fuel pressure. It's a pain in the (insert body part here) to work on because it's on the back side of the Plenum. Here's a link to napaonline.com for the part I think you need. I think you can test your regulator with a vacuum pump.

I agree with BowTied here. It's gotta be fuel related if it's not electrical. No codes, new ignition components. I'm leaning towards regulator. Fuel pumps usually die a quick painful death and don't fade out over time. If it still runs (kind of) then the pump is still working. Been snowing like crazy up here in Bellingham. Lots of rigs in the ditches. Saw a Jeep Cherokee in the ditch. Good place for 'em. Went around 'em with my Titan thinking I should pull 'em out. Decided not to.

Do you frequently run it really low on fuel? If it's a fuel problem, I've heard of vehicles clogging up when people run their fuel tank really low. This one sounds like a possible electrical problem. Whaddyathink guys? Alternator/battery in good shape? If the ignition isn't getting enough voltage, it could be dropping out occasionally. New Distributor Cap and Rotor? I cracked a brand new cap last time I was putting it on. Ruined it. That sucks about the rear ender. Hit your hitch?

Thanks man. In these times, we need more people like you. I'll pay it forward. There's the B.C. guys just across the border from me. After some quick research, there's a great junkyard across the border in Surrey too.

LOL! I was kinda joking, but in all seriousness, I might want to buy those from ya if it comes to that.... Right now though, the only reason I'm on a broadband connection and not a dialup is because my wife is still working. I'm waiting for the laborer's union and the company I'm starting with to get off their a$$eS and talk so that I can go to work and make some money. Unemplyment doesn't pay well.

Brand new belt on there. It was last changed at 175k and I've got 183k on there now. It's in good shape, not even worn. I'm tempted to change the tensioner. As far as I can tell, it just backed off a bit and let the belt loosen. uncpathfinder: I think I'll play it safe, unless you have a spare set of pistons and valves laying around that I could have. I was just barely idling when it went, so I'm pretty sure I lucked out. I did my best not to run the engine too long or rev it at all because of the noise. Once again, when I get the courage to do this job, which I think is just re-timing my valves (and a first for me), I'll post with details and maybe a how to and some pix. Experience can be the best Teacher.

Fixed it! The timing belt idler pulley loosened and allowed the belt to jump a tooth. I haven't started it yet, but I want my buddy mechanic to look it over before I close it all up to make sure it's timed right. I'll post again once I've done a compression test. The first indicator should have been how loose the belt felt when I first pulled the cover off.....

I actually found their website. Check them out at http://www.northlanddiesel.com/

My poor Pathy started making an awful sound while I was on my way home from work the other day. It was keeping the engine from running right. Real bad miss. I couldn't keep it running without someone holding the throttle and running the engine about 1500 RPM. I've done some diagnosis to see what might be the problem: Noise: Fairly intermittent, somewhat metallic. Doesn't sound like a connecting rod knock (heard a few Ford V8s with bad rods). No metal in oil. ECU: No check engine light. Timing: Was spot-on before the problem. Compression test: 120-128 psi across all six. Side note: Driver's side bank a real b**** to get to.... Visual inspection of Valve Train from top shows all lifters and rockers in their proper place. Nothing bent broken or missing visible from top of heads. The funny thing was, I was just in traffic. I wasn't (and hadn't) really worked her hard since the previous weekend (12 miles in on a logging road. Here ). I did have some belly scrapers. Could I have picked up a rock in the clutch? I did a clutch in my last Pathy with my dad about four years ago, but I can't remember if the bell housing is open at the bottom of this transmission. Any ideas??? BTW, this motor is a non-interference motor, so a valve would have to be mangled to strike the piston, right? Huck

I've got a great diesel shop here in Bellingham. I'll see what they have for diesel Nissan Forklift engines or maybe even a ZD30. BTW, I own a Titan and with the traction control, I'd be scared to do any suspension mods. Raising your center of gravity causes the VDC to be overly sensitive, making it run the front brakes run with the least bit of body roll. I bought my Pathy just because I was afraid to scratch up my Titan and can't afford (esp. after buying the Titan) to mod/repair stuff outside of warranty.

I can attest to that too! When I let off from higher RPMs, and I get a backfire, I wonder who was shooting at me. BTW, in the states if it's "Off Road Only" you don't need emissions. Yet another advantage to a Diesel.

If your T-gage isn't working, how about your fuel gage and clock? If that's the case (and a working t-gage really helps diagnose overheating issues), then you need a new voltage regulator in your dash. If you want, I can writeup a howto on replacing it...

My 92 has those little heater hoses routed under the plenum. I had a leak there a while back. It created quite the problem for the cooling system. When I drove back and forth to work, it had no problem. When I tried working her really hard (hill climbing especially) the system would overheat. My mechanic told me that if the system isn't completely closed and air can get sucked in (specifically those hoses) when the engine cools down, it can make the system boil over. And a boil over can warp heads and crack blocks, etc etc.