esy
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Posts posted by esy
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how come you didn't get the recessed cutout from KMA when you bought the bumper?
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if it were me, i'd stray away from having to cut the WJ coils to suit your ride height needs. cutting or heating coils has never been a good idea in any situation that i've come across. that's just me though.
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doubt it matters much, but this guy is actually one of my older brothers. haha. he'd been searching for a R50 for a while and finally landed this one. we went to Petaluma to go pick it up. pretty clean ride, needs a couple little things, but other than that it's a clean truck. he needs tires and i'm trying to talk him into buying the set of Cragars and BFGs in the classifieds. we'll see if he bites.
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Ya I called National 4wd and 4 other shops. I dont think local is really an option
I hear the .5" lift OME springs actually give 1.5" lift so that is kind of out of the running for me
depends on which model of the OME coils you get.
if you get the heavier duty OME coils, it will obviously give you more lift because it's designed to carry more weight. same amount of lift, but just a higher spring rate/stiffer spring.
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Well I wired the PIAA 510's up with the OEM Factory fog light wiring just adding spade connectors to the ends and sliding them right on the PIAA pig tail. I found Relays and Fuses under the hood (BTW). The only thing I had to do was change the 15amp fuse to a 20....The fuse blew on my first attempt turning them on! They seem to work fine.....BUT, one thing I noticed is when I have my head lights on & the PIAA's on, as soon as the Hi Beams turn on, the PIAA's turn OFF!??! And come back ON when the Hi Beams are shut back off. DID THIS USED TO HAPPEN WITH THE OEM FOG LIGHTS???? If so, I never noticed! Or am I now, dealing with a weird Relay issue since I,m using the stock wiring?
yes, that's normal. it's a legal thing. not sure of other states or what not, but it's a law that the only the hi-beams are on when they're switched on.
there's a re-wire thread somewhere on the forum, just not as clear as some others. it should be a similar type of re-wire that i did on several of my other cars like my G20. you find a running light (would be the front sidemarkers for us), clip that, wire into the foglight relay found under the hood and hook that up to the power. so, power wire from foglight relay is connected to power wire on the sidemarkers so that fogs come on when sidemarkers come on.
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Umm... k..?
my apologies. i guess when i was making a handful of links, that got mistook for this link.
http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_product/sue462/backpressuretorquemyth.htm
sorry. this should provide some better info though.
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just some quick little info.
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yes, MichiganAve's truck definitely looks killer.
one thing i'm worried about is if i do happen to jump on these bumpers, it'll give me more of an excuse to get a modest OME lift or what not, which is what i'm trying to stay away from. haha.
i don't know, maybe i'll just look into getting my bumpers rhino-lined or something with a simple, bull-bar. it looks like you may have done that previously, unless it's just a black bumper.
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adam, aren't the ARB bumpers heavier than the KMAs? from the looks of it, it would appear to be. the KMA doesn't look as "heavy duty" as the ARB does, especially since i would be more interested in getting a winchless, basic bumper kind of like what morpheus has.
these bumpers definitely have piqued my interest, especially for the rear. getting a full bumper with a tow hitch attached sounds awesome to me! anyone know if the wiring is included, needs to be done, or if there's even a spot for it if my truck doesn't have a hitch yet?
sorry to threadjack, OfftourRoadie. your mods have definitely garnered some serious interest from me. haha.
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piste, if you're looking for a full, replacement bumper, check this:
it's the link morpheus provided for the KMA bumpers that is being talked about in OfftourRoadie's thread.
really makes me want to get a simple one for the front and a simple one for the rear with the tow hitch so i don't have to buy a separate tow hitch. my driving is very similar to yours with no plans of lifting the truck. i would think the 923s would be more than enough for our trucks with one of these bumpers and no winch, as far as what that e-mail said from ARB.
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thanks for the link, morpheus. i don't know why or how i couldn't find that.
damn, that bumper looks so dope. how heavy are these bumpers? is it something that would need stiffer springs or will the stock springs and better shocks/struts be ok? i ask this because i don't plan on lifting my truck.
my reasoning for this bumper would mostly be because i always enjoyed having the stock steel bumpers on my old WD21. i don't really care that i've already put some scratches on my R50 bumper now, but having a steel bumper is always nice.
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looks sweet! doesn't look like KMA makes one for the 2G R50s or does this fit as well? not a bad price either.
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check courtesyparts.
looks like PN #65722M. might want to verify that when you order it though.
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cams will give you a noticeable gain in power. a very common modification in many cars. when i modified my 240SX, i used a bit more aggressive of a street cam that netted me more power. drove a NA Z32 with a mild street cam to see if that's what i wanted on my own. both our vehicles were pretty much identical aside from the cams and there was a noticeable difference in power and pull through all gears. pulled noticeably harder off the launch and i was able to chirp the tires with more ease. also wanted to get a set of S1 cams for my previous G20, but i sold it for my pathy before i got a chance to.
if that's a mod that you're seriously considering, it will net you many more horses than a TB spacer and WAI will, or a CAI even.
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only have the POP charger. can't say anything about hp as that would require me being on a dyno before and after. typically a WAI will only net you 5HP or less at the wheels, at most. biggest things you'll notice with the POP or any WAI, for that matter, is louder engine noise and a better throttle response.
TB spacers are a pretty controversial modification as to whether it's useful or a waste. i would just pass, if it were me.
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nice info, fleurys!
i'll have to keep an eye on mine or maybe just do some preventative maintenance and replace it on my next oil change. haven't noticed any leaks or weeping, but it never hurts to do it just in case.
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My friend has these on his hardbody. He had all 4 siped and has no traction issues in snow (we've got 8 inches on Thanksgiving).
be careful with independent shops siping your tires. it's not necessary and it will actually void any and all warranties with the company. if the tire did not come with enough sipes to hold traction in conditions, there's a reason. siping/cutting the tire is considered vandalism by companies and shops. just an FYI.
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I have a really hard time believing that all 4 rims are bent. The tires could just be @!*%, though.
2nd. you've got to do quite a bit to be able to bend all wheels. most bent wheels (those that are significant enough to even be felt) are ones that are hitting the curb and putting a nice dent in the rim, and the rim flange. in offroading situations, i agree that it's easier to bend a wheel, but you've got to be driving like a tool to be able to bend them all, just my opinion.
what does the shop mean by "choppy"? do they mean feathered or cupping tires? feathered tires shouldn't really cause a vibration at high speeds. you'll usually just hear more road noise like a hum, and you'll probably only feel the feathered tires when braking/driving at slower speeds. tires that are cupping will be worse. tires that are cupped usually have a wavy type of wear in the tread which can definitely cause a vibration issue that resembles a bad balance.
nothing wrong with the tires or the work of the shop. the tires will stay that away until they smooth out through normal wear, and will just be annoying more than anything.
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can you clarify what you mean by "tire bump"?
if you mean binding, then that's pretty normal as that is what the transfer case is doing. it's sending power to the front axle, so the steering will feel a bit tighter than in 2WD.
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and if you put them on yourself, you'll feel the weight difference. My 31 bfg's have quite some weight over my 235 geolanders. It does accelerate a little slower. And braking distance a little farther. But nothing you can't handle. And you WILL get rubbing issues, fully depending on your rim choice. Back spacing plays a big role in whether they will rub or not. Mine used to rub when reversing at full lock until i switched rims.
i believe there was someone that posted that there were differences between the 1G R50 SE and LEs, being that the LEs will experience more rubbing as compared to the SEs.
the SEs that come factory with the 265/70/15s will not rub unless the tires come brand new with an insane amount of tread or the springs are sagging like crazy and the shocks/struts are beyond blown.
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I would say that he means it probably holds shifts longer and feels slower because of the bigger/heavier tires.
pretty much, yeah.
modi, it's basic physics. you're putting a tire with a larger circumference on there. brake distance is going to increase, acceleration is going to slow, mileage will probably be affected a bit, your handling shouldn't suffer a whole lot though, to be honest. most 31s come in 6-ply applications meaning it's a stiffer tire. you've got more sidewall now, which usually results in a "mushier" type of ride, but the stiffer tire counteracts that a bit.
biggest things you'll notice are increased brake distance and slower acceleration. that's the big things.
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going from a 265/70/15 to 31s should be barely over a 3% increase. maybe a 3.5% increase, if that.
the 31s are actually an optional size that we use regularly in the shop for Frontiers, Pathys, etc.
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brake failure is a very bold statement nor do they explain what can actually happen. just a very vague and ambiguous statement.
when upsizing your wheel/tire combo, your ABS can fail if you get to about +12%. a +3% change will mostly affect handling of the truck, speedometer, etc. it's always nice to upgrade your braking system with at least better pads, maybe some SS lines, and better fluid. other than that, you'll be fine.
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as for the weights, if while balancing the machine calls for a 1 OZ weight say on the top of the wheel (while on the machine) than when spun again it calls for a .50 OZ weight directly across from the 1 OZ weight it would not be right to put the .50 OZ weight on, I would try (if I was doing the balancing) to remove the 1 Oz weight and put a .50 OZ weight in it's place.
Wheels can be bent and not be "obviously" bent as well
wait, are you talking on the same side of the wheel? if it's on the same side of the wheel, it's always in the shop workers' best interest to only balance a wheel with one weight on either side of the wheel. if that's what you're getting at, yes, i wholeheartedly agree. not only doe the balance look more professional with only one weight on either side of the wheel, but it's the proper way. i thought you were getting at one weight at the top of the wheel on the outside rim and another weight at the top of the wheel on the inside rim.
i agree, a wheel can look normal but once it's spun it's usually extremely easy to tell if it's bent or not.
Qx4donald intro
in New People Start Here!
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haha, i know you've been waiting for them, b. i'd jump on them too if i didn't want to keep my truck relatively stock.
we were in a bit of a time crunch to begin with. we had to get back because we had practice for the basketball team that we coach.