esy
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Posts posted by esy
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You know, go to almost any tire shop around your area. Watch them work. I can almost guarantee you that none of them use jack stands, only jacks identical to Andrew's. The Les Schwab I worked at was the same way, never had an issue... and neither has any of the stores in the area for as long as they've been open.
I'd be more worried if it was one of those POS 1-ton weenie jacks, not the big 3-5 ton gear driven ones.
I always use jack stands when I can if the vehicle is going to be off the ground for any length of time, pushed/pulled on, or I'm underneath it. Especially with a cheap weenie jack. I don't trust those things as far as I can throw them.
What kingman said, these guys I work with are mechanics by profession, and build racecars as a hobby. They have nothing but the best stuff. Those jacks are stout, takes all of 5 pumps to jack up the truck that high. And they are super wide, thus very stable. The cup on the jack is around 5in wide also.
doesn't really matter to be totally honest with you. just because something hasn't happened doesn't mean it can't or won't. just because guys are professional mechanics doesn't make it less dangerous.
just like someone else said, idiots and/or kids can easily come by and release the jack. i've seen brand new jacks give out for whatever faulty, defective reason.
but, it doesn't really matter. it's your choice to work as safe or unsafe as you like.
EDIT: BTW, as far as the Costco tire centers in the Sacramento County area, you won't see a car lifted on a manual jack without two other things in place. those being a wheel chock and a jackstand. not only is it an instilled guideline for us, but an automatic write-up, demotion, removal from department, or even termination. that's us and that's why we're different from other tire shops. not to toot our own horns, but toot.
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I wasn't going to, but since you asked for it....
You need to use a jackstand.
Guys in the tire shop (not ours, thankfully) have gotten hurt pretty badly having not used a jackstand and we're not under the cars at all. They had maybe a foot or a partial leg barely under and gotten pretty well injured. So, yes, i'd say you would've gotten hurt a pretty fair amount.
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31s will fit into the R50s with a little bit of rubbing, but not much.
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not sure if the '01s had a different option than my '02, but there are only 3 positions for my floor shifter. they are 2H, 4H, and 4L. if yours is the same, you cannot leave the hubs in the free position in any other position than the 2H. switching the floor shifter into anything else while the hubs are free/unlocked will damage the transfer case.
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My light usually comes on at about 16gal/4gal left, give or take. My manual also says 20 7/8, which i just say 20 gallons. Keep it simple. Most fuel lights should come on with around 50-60 miles left to drive before it starts sputtering. At least that's what i've typically noticed.
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That's the same thing borla is saying to pathy owners who are asking for a tuned-specific performance exhaust for next to nothing.
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No, 15k to cover their overhead to do R&D, test fits, dyno tests, etc which would take care of their finances in case people don't buy their exhausts.
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yes, they're drive flanges/locked/on all the time.
only auto TCs.
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I use a regular lift and go off the frame. Never had a problem.
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they're more or less doing the same thing, but a strut is a coil-integrated system. it's meant to handle weight just as much as it's meant to act as a damper. a shock is separate from the strut/coil assembly, and is solely meant to dampen the ride.
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struts are not the same as shocks.
from what you're saying, desertfox, OME is the way to go for you. either MD or LD/stock load for you. MD will give you roughly < 1" of lift, and the LD will give you 0.5" of lift.
BTW, OME are also not the same as AC coils. from what it sounds, the OME coils are offered through AC.
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you don't have rear struts. they're rear shocks.
and i haven't looked at AC's site lately about the MD coils in question, but i'd concur with OTR96 that they're the same, OME coils.
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for those asking how hard it can be, why aren't you guys running your own exhaust company?
not trying to be brass, but that's a bit narrow-minded, don't you think?
again, $15k is a lot of money, but you're asking a company to put R&D into an exhaust that is not a proven market. what if some guys took the plunge on our trucks. they made, say, 100 cat-back exhaust systems (and knowing Borla, they're pretty pricey). and going by the number of members in this thread that are "interested", maybe 10 out of the 20 or so in this thread bought one. but, how many are even willing to shell out money for this exhaust immediately? i really, really doubt many of you would be able to.
so, 10 exhausts sold in how many months' time? that's a pretty big loss on their part, especially seeing as how there was so much "interest", but nothing guaranteed in sales. think of that $15k as a "down payment" on their exhausts if people back out, which people will definitely do.
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i'm sorry, but what exactly did you guys think was going to happen by sending a few letters of interest for an exhaust for our trucks? just because they get about 50 or so letters of interest to make an exhaust, they're going to make a bunch? i think many of you are dismissing the amount of money it takes for a company to make and research such a product without any proven or guaranteed market out there for it.
sure, $15k is quite a bit of money, but that's also a lot of money for Borla as well, especially during the current economic situation that we're all in. sure, they're a multi-million dollar or more company, but what business is out there to simply toss around money for no rhyme or reason other than to make a few truck owners happy whether they buy an exhaust system or not?
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aftermarket springs are less expensive, at least the OME coils are. unfortunately, there aren't any stock height aftermarket/better coils. i'm not looking for a lift either, but i'll be getting the MD OME coils all around. it'll provide a slight lift (i would think a little less than 1" for the MD coils once it settles in). you can always go with LD/stock load, which will give you 0.5" of lift. i'll be going MD mostly because i'd like the suspension to be able to take a bit more weight (i.e. passengers, stuff that i'm carrying, or maybe even a payload) and not sag too much.
i've also heard nothing but good things about the GR2s for the front struts. it's kind of surprising, to be honest, because GR2s (as far as for sport compact cars) are factory replacement types of struts/shocks. not sure if they're modeled any different for truck applications, but that's my familiarity with them and i never used them for my sport cars, but rather the AGXs. again, it could be for different applications. i'll be going with OME shocks in the rear because i also hear very good things about them, and they appear to be a very stout looking shock and well priced.
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super tough to find ethanol free gas stations in CA (most are at least some 5-7%). one can only hope that the saying is true, that most pumps have less ethanol in their premium octanes.
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why not just use a GPS? a GPS is going to be way more accurate than our speedos.
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Well I decided to email ARB USA and ask about the deal on these OME springs. Here is what I got:
Andrew-
Our R50 Pathfinder springs all have the same spring rate of 200 lbs/in while the OE springs are 150 lbs/in. As our application page shows, each spring is designed around a vehicle with a certain amount of extra weight. As you step from light load, to medium, and heavy there is a 10mm height change in the coil itself. The extra height of the spring counteracts the additional weight so the end result is .50” of lift when the weight is matched to the appropriate coil.
If you are only planning on running skid plates, I would suggest the Light Load springs (2921) in the front and the Medium Load (2922) for the rear.
Hope this helps!
Matt Glass
ARB USA
Tech and Marketing Assistant
So it seems that you really DO get more height with the "heavier" springs and they are all the same stiffness! 10mm is about 1/2 inch so light springs are .5 lift, med are 1", and heavy are 1.5" lift. And the rear springs are only available as med at 1" lift. And remember don't get confused about the Rocky road website, their listings of what is medium and what is heavy is incorrect. They only sell light and medium but they call them medium and heavy.
I am going to email ARB in austrailia to make sure what this guy says is correct. Too confusing!
that's the best explanation from ARB i've seen from them so far! great info! thanks. i was always under the impression that the MD/HD simply had higher spring rates. good to know.
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OME coils only provide 0.5" of lift. It "looks" like more because all of our springs are sagging. The 0.5" of lift is measured from stock height when the truck rolled off the showroom floor.
It will also "look" like more of a lift if you get a stiffer rated spring than what you're actually carrying (i.e. getting HD coils for the front when you have stock everything in the front).
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that wouldn't make sense since you'd have to pop the c-cap on and off every time you lock and unlock your hubs. to each their own, i suppose.
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yes, leaving them locked all the time will be just like stock.
when i go to the mountains, i usually just wait to lock them until i hit some kind of chain control if road conditions are at all questionable. or i'll lock them before i leave if i'm really trying to make first chair or don't feel like locking them later.
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like OTR96, i'm also considering getting the KMA (apparently now, TAG) rear bumper. really nice, heavy duty looking bumper with some nice options, just wish it was a little slimmer in profile. i would be trying to get it sooner than later, but have realized that i need to upgrade my coils/shocks and struts first to prevent some of the sag that i'll definitely get from the bumper.
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A/T. considered getting a 5spd when i was searching and there were actually a few available (probably 2 or 3 out of the 10 pathys i found were 5spd). i decided against it just because i felt like being lazy in the pathy and didn't really want one for a truck/SUV.
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i believe so. if you want to go wider, you should look into buying new wheels. they're not too expensive to go grab some 16x8 or 9 steelies.
running auto hubs with lift
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
yes, pair, and amazon still appears to be the best buy. free shipping and no tax for most people (definitely us in CA, anyways).
you can use the AUTO mode for the 4x4, but you simply have to be absolutely certain that your hubs are locked. just like with the floor shifter 4x4, you should only be switching into 4x4 when your hubs are locked.
and to reiterate, the truck will drive the same with the manual hubs locked as it does stock.