joshellis

I could be wrong but I think the other end goes into the air cleaner assembly (underside). It should have little pipes protruding to plug the hose into. I think that vacuum line has some thing to do with the mass air flow system. MY1PATH should chip in here...

Thanks Kingman I removed the aircleaner & located the screw facing the sky (little plastic cover on it), adjusted fast idle to 1200. No dramas!

Interesting. I just got the truck 6 mths ago, its my first VG30, I just assumed that this was the normal warm up speed. I'll have a look at the MAF again thx. But 2000 is too high right??

Yeah I cleaned the MAF sensor using the q-tip method in the How To section... Do you mean check engine light in the dash? Plz correct me if wrong but I didnt think my rig had one (Feb 87) I retrieved the error codes from the ECU and all I got was 'ECCS Working Fine' Also I had a look at the EGR valve, looks to be pretty new - its vacuum operated right?

When started from cold my 5spd 87 idles at 1900-2000rpm for the first 5 minutes or so. When it reaches normal temp it drops down to 750rpm and stays there all day well behaved. It also smells quite rich when its cold. Is this idle speed too high? If so can I adjust myself? Is there a cold start mixture setting also? Thanks

So is the single connector a 'terminator' ??

Interesting stuff thanks I removed the protective sleeve from the the factory one, the thin single plug wire is spliced into the main black wire from sensor, hmmm. So the wiring of the two sensors is the same.

Hi I'm having a helluva time getting through CA smog. After reading posts I am attempting to replace the o2 sensor. Here is the the one I just removed from the truck (located down from the y-pipe next to the gearbox on driver side) Heres the new one I ordered Here is where I bought it My questions: 1. The 3 wire connector is the same, but what is the second connector on the original sensor for? In the engine bay it looks like it is woven into the harness. 2. The replacement sender is a larger size thread of course. Can I plug the current hole and drill & tap a new hole somewhere else? If so, where is the best location? I know there is a thread on this but I couldnt find it sorry. 3. The replacement has the same three piece connector but only a short cable. To extend it, how do I match the universal white-white-black wires with the harness connector red-white-blacks wires? 4. Can you test these things for malfunction somehow? I'm getting less mpg than I should if thats any indication. Here are my CO readings: MAX AVE MEAS 15mph 0.84 0.14 1.26 25mph 1.03 0.12 1.05 Everything else it passed. Thanks v much for the input,

I'd like to do the same to my truck, this would be a great how-to. The jingle is annoying off road too.

Has anybody out there ever seen bolt on head light guards on a D21 Pathy? I'd sure like a set if its ever been done.

How about a 1970-1994 Range Rover or 1989-1998 Land Rover Discovery as a donor vehicle? 100" wheelbase, body on frame construction, solid axles, four wheel coil springs/disc brakes, full time 4x4, 3.5-3.9V8?? I guess it seems good on paper (or online) but logistically would be a nightmare. And I guess the inherent Land Rover reliability issues.

Heres the frustrating part - I'm looking into the engine bay right now, and the water pump looks new - fresh gaskets, all drive belts are new, the bolts holding on the radiator show evidence of having been removed before. Ignition wires are all new, not that it matters in this case. So I'm trying to get hold of the previous owner, see if he has any maintenance records that will put my mind at ease. Thanks for all the help so far, will keep you guys posted.

Thx for the info guys. I went ahead and removed the rear one, its a bit more swimmy but I think I'll keep it off.

Hmm was that before you put all those suspension goodies on your truck? ie only noticed a little difference with stock springs, shocks, ride height etc? The arse end of mine is (shrug) barebones stock right now. 31" tires. How do you think it would behave with both front and rear bars removed? Would I gain more wheel travel up front? Or do the UCAs have a fixed amount of up/down movement? I think that was a stupid question. Sorry.

Will unbolting the rear sway bar drastically affect on-road performance? 3-dr, no rear seats, no spare tire carrier Thanks

Thanks for all the help guys. I actually managed to remove the upper cover and have a look. Like GrimGreg says there was no way of telling its condition. It's too ambitious a task to attempt changing it myself, since its my daily driver and frankly I dont have the skills or knowledge in setting timing etc. The To-Do on the forum is really interesting. How much would I have to cough up to get the belt changed? Expressed in hrs labor & parts. I'm in the SF Bay Area but I think I can still get a good deal if I hunt around.

Thanks Alkorahil. By linkage do you mean shift linkage, or something inside the case? Sorry about the rookie questions... Josh

Hi The MT in my Pathy is 177000 miles strong, running 5.1L GL-4. No major whines, but definitely some signs of normal wear. Synchros are in great condition given the previous owner probably used GL5 fluid and only 4L. Anyway it has a tendency to jump out of 3rd upon deceleration at speeds below 25mph. Is this irreversible wear? I suspect it will keep on soldiering for at least another 177000 miles, my previous diesel Terrano did the same, and that transmission had spent most of its life under water! Any advice? Thanks

Thanks guys. I suspect it has been replaced recently, because the rest of the engine has been meticulously maintained. I acquired this PF about 4 months ago, so its more for peace of mind than anything! Cheers

I want to inspect my timing belt. Is there any way to remove the upper timing belt cover without first removing the radiator? Or maybe an inspection hole somewhere? Thanks, 1987 VG30

Hi everyone. I believe my rig has broken studs on the LH head (from the drivers position), causing ticking when warming up or being shut off then started again. As I understand the studs will need to be extracted. My question - realistically - is it best the remove the engine to perform this task? I will be getting expert help with the task, but I've heard from both sides that it can be done either way. Thanks.