Jump to content

Kingman

Members
  • Posts

    12,519
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    46

Posts posted by Kingman

  1. So to clarify a little... 4/'87-'89 300zx Turbos are short nose CLSD. Only the '88 Shiro Special (1001 made) is VLSD. '90-'96 Turbo and some NAs are all VLSD. They are sort of interchangeable with each other but require some luck and parts changing. A 4/'87-'89 Turbo CLSD carrier will swap in to a WD21. Has been done numerous times. As far as I know, no one has tried to swap one into an R50.

    • Like 1
  2. Finally got my lazy ass in gear and started mounting the control box and spool the cable for my winch. Pulled the grill, going to cut it tomorrow at work. I also separated the chrome trim to plasti-dip it black. Before it sees any real use I need to change the battery ends to some less weenie ones, or add a distribution block on the fender well.

     

    20150826_202007_zpsemcgfrat.jpg

    20150826_202022_zps7tu5fsx5.jpg

    • Like 1
  3. Thermostat will not cause coolant consumption nor heating up only under load. A failing water pump yes, but not coolant consumption. Sorry you wasted money there...

     

    As was said, it needs to stay at a shop for a day and pay the rate for a diagnosis. A good shop will pressure test the system, do a block check, and if it passes that they will stick the 5-gas analyzer in the radiator and it will say exactly how many PPM of exhaust gasses is present in the system.

     

    Rough idle, loss of coolant consistently, and heating up under load are all signs of a failing head gasket.

     

    At this point screw figuring out why it's heating up under load/up hills. The focus needs to be on where the coolant is going. If it's ingesting it, the heads will come off and the head gaskets replaced along with a new timing belt and water pump etc.

     

    It could be it's been overheated and blew a head gasket, yes. However the damage is done. Fixing the overheating issue (if it ends up being unrelated) is, at this point, wasting money.

  4. Yes. Rotate the engine to TDC and make sure the rotor is pointing at the NO.1 point on the cap. Unfortunately parts house distributors have a high failure rate...

     

    Also. Clutch? Was there a crank sensor on top of the bell housing that may have gotten messed up, pinched the wire, etc?

  5. 2k pulling a hill is not okay for these motors. They aren't V8s. Most of us here can't pull a hill in top gear and keep speed. 4th or 3rd is pretty typical. That being said... along with the ignition tune-up stuff have you checked/replaced the fuel filter, O2 sensor, and checked the timing? Also a good throttle body and intake clean usually helps as was said above.

    • Like 1
  6. With your foot to the floor it won't ever start, that signals the ECU to cut spark and fuel to the engine. Flood clear mode.

     

    Pull the distributor cap off and inspect. If it's worn out along with the rotor that could be your issue.

     

    Also check for spark through the plugs, not just the cap.

     

    How does the engine crank? Normally or sound funky? If so crank the engine with the distributor cap off and make sure the rotor turns consistently. If it doesn't you have a slipped timing belt which more often than not means a rebuild as the valves kissed the pistons.

×
×
  • Create New...