Kingman
-
Posts
12,519 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
46
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by Kingman
-
-
Bad booster or vacuum line going to it. When they go bad they create a large vacuum leak, instead of drawing vacuum into the diaphragm to give assist it just leaks out
-
-
Transmission/radiator issue, and timing chain. If it rattles and howls like a mother bear when you start it be prepared to have to fix that with the updated stuff.
-
Does it change with engine load or just RPM? If it changes with load it's likely a bottom end issue and you can isolate the problem cylinder by disabling it and removing the load (unplug coil packs one at a time)
-
Well one step in my patch concerning my oil consumption. Over the weekend found a bunch of oil in the intake tube. Which consumption through the intake is very common with the 3.5l cars. To which they have catch can options available to them. Me? Nah. Just capped the intake tube part. Put a small cone filter breather on the PCV tube that would go to in the intake. Will monitor the filter for excessive oil and see how my oil consumption goes. If need be, Ill do a whole catch can setup. But I'll go the whole Home Depot route with air line filters n stuff.
Any drivability issues? The PCV system is basically a controlled vacuum leak, some cars are super sensitive to it and can cause fuel mileage to drop considerably. Also I assume you aren't in a smog area and you replaced the PCV valve with one with the same flow rate...
-
If it's just a poof it's not a big deal at all honestly.
-
The deflector idea didn't go over so well. Dogs were playing and knock my over, it went flying, and broke. So I'm going to find another one and try PVC or ABS plastic cement for more strength.
Haven't touched the basket yet other than measure and mark some stuff.
-
It's not all that uncommon to find an extra or two in seal kits. Sometimes it comes in handy when you accidentally screw one up.
-
Best way to get them out is use a small socket that just fits into the injector bore and doesn't contact the pintle ad tap it out from the bottom.
-
First thing to do is check the fuses and relay. If those are all good, lay under the tank while someone turns the key on and smack it with a hammer. If the pump comes on its either a bad pump or bad connections on top of the tank.
-
Blocking the lines off (line clamps) will entirely seal off air past that point. If you did that and the brake pedal was hard as a rock, the issue is not there or the ABS module. If it was still mushy, the issue is the master cylinder or ABS module. More likely the master cylinder.
If the brake pedal was hard after pinching the lines off, but still mushy after bleeding again, I'd suggest adjusting the rear drums up if that's what your truck has for rear brakes. That's commonly mistaken for air in the lines.
-
1800lbs should be just fine. If anything drop the pan and do a service and install an auxiliary cooler.
I'd suggest staying out of overdrive as much as you can, however it'll probably do that on its own anyhow with the weight.
-
1
-
-
If they're fine run it
-
heads
in The Garage
Yes the little 10mm bolts and the heads need to be popped up because of the dowels.
-
Well the crank gets the most oil first, if any were to go it'd be the NO. 2 rod bearing since it's the last in line to get oil. If it was just idling it may not be all that bad but I'd definitely expect some wear. If you can see copper it's time for a rebuild. Um however, just throwing bearings in it isn't a good idea... the crank needs to be taken to the machine shop to be checked and polished. If you're planning on Nissan bearings, they are sold "undersized" which means the crank needs to be turned. Many aftermarket brands sell them standard size so if the crank is fine to just be polished you'll be alright there. Don't forget the plasti-gauges to measure tolerances.
-
Dear God man that's bad! That doesn't happen often...
-
Anything to not cut the hose
-
If you're lucky they don't. If you catch a valve partway open they'll jump. It doesn't hurt anything but it is annoying.
Yes, Nissan (Atsugi) pumps are getting very hard to find. Check ebay?
-
It's not unheard of. Do you own line clamps? If you can pinch off the 3 brake soft lines you'll be able to tell by whether or not the pedal still drops.
-
Sorry to hijack a little here, but how do you bleed the master cylinder without removing the lines? I see the instructions in the FSM, but it's in the context of installation, before the lines are attached. Isn't this sort of automatic once everything is connected?
Easy. Pump the pedal up while someone cracks the flare fittings loose on the master just like you would at a caliper or wheel cylinder.
Air is easiest to bleed out at the highest point. Sure, you can pump like mad to push those air bubbles all the way down to the wheels or bleed at the master and be done with it. Up to you.
Stands to reason that if the only variation here is whether or not air has entered the system, and there is a problem after air has entered the system, there is still air in the system.
Pumping the pedal with the lines open isn't exactly building any pressure to push a stuck bubble out. Should what you've done work fine? Yes, not always. I'd double check like was mentioned grab a helper and do the bleed the old fashioned way. In fact do it a lot. If you have rear drums make sure they're adjusted up properly to bring back some pedal feel.
-
New or old a loose belt is a loose belt. Take it back and have him tighten them properly. That'll take care of the squeal unless there is a bad bearing somewhere.
-
1
-
-
Probably still have air. Did you bleed the master cylinder and ABS valve first? Grab a helper and do a proper brake bleed.
-
DETT fits... there's a thread and a few videos on here. It's tight.
RB is an inline VG that's less reliable and hard to find parts for.
-
1
-
-
Well not particularly... but it's much easier. It's a son of a b*tch otherwise but doable.
Sharing my winch mount/ tube bumper build
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
Looks stellar man