Greenbushy

90 Terrano, no rust very happy Greenbushy

The oil filter is different than the td 27 oil filter, the td 27t uses a combined oil filter/bypass filter, in Aus it is the Ryco Z416 or the Genuine Nissan 15208-20N10, note that the oil filter changed on Terranno td 27t's from 93 on, hope this helps Greenbushy

I ahve used Mobil devac mx 15w40 in my td 27t since i bought it 5 years ago at 218000km now and runs like it did when i bought it with no noticeable oil useage,, just gets better with age Greenbushy

Also i would suggest, having a complete trans oil change and running full synthetic trans fluid, these transmissions should run with synthetic fluid,,, they shift much better with synthetic too Greenbushy

Well after a 500 odd km round trip i can say for certain that a 4 wd Z24 gearbox will not fit a Td27, the bell housing stud pattern is different, oh well was a nice day for a drive ` Greenbushy

Thanks Vsicks yeah its mainly the stud pattern iam thinking of, as you may remember iam lookng for a 4wd gearbox for my Terrano and i found one advertised last night, its 250km away so would have been nice to know if it fitted before i went and looked, guess i'll have to hope for the best, its out of a 87 Pathy and i have a 90 Terrano. Greenbushy

Does anybody know if the WD21 Petrol gearbox the same as Desiel Box, thanks for any reples Greenbushy

I have had my Terrano for 4 years, and yes the oil filter is a pain, also keep a good eye on the air filter if you do a lot of dusty roads cause the filter will fill up quickly, it sucks air from inside the left gaurd and seems to suck lots of dust,, i made up a manifold and fitted a donaldson pre cleaner, hardly have to touch the filter now, here is a pic of my pre cleaner http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v372/gre...GP1224Small.jpg Greenbushy sorry can't seem to get pic into post but the above is the link fro anyone interested

ok so it can be done then, it would be my choice of way to go rather than trying to find another gearbox because i know the history on the 2wd gearbox i have and has been recently rebuilt, it may pay me to find a 4wd Navara and have a look at the box give me a better idea what it looks like thanks for the replies Greenbushy

Umm time to up date this, with my health starting to improve ( ive had pnemona ) ive ventioned down to the shed and looked at the 2wd gearbox, no way could i bolt the transfer case onto it as the shift mechanism is bolted to the rear of the gearbox,, oh well time to strat looking for a gearbox that will fit Greenbushy

Thanks for that info Vsicks, ya see the tranny or i think it may be he convertor died on my Terrano ,,, not sure what it is yet as ive been crook and haven't finished pulling it out yet,,, i think it maybe the convertor has stripped its splines which aperrently can happen to Terranos,, any how i picked up 88 2wd Navarra cheap and am looking at converting the Terrano to manual, i know the clutch pedal assembly will fit but wasnt sure about the trans case bolting to the 2wd gearbox,,, so thanks for the info, will keep you posted as to how it works out Greenbushy

Thanks Filthy, but i think you misuderstood me, what i mean is if i take the extension housing off the 2wd gearbox will the transfer case bolt up to the gearbox ,,, guess i'll have to try it and see,, will post the results when ive tried it Greenbushy

Just a question for any one that may know or have done this,, Will the tranfercase from a 90 4wd WD21 bolt onto a 88 2wd D21 gearbox, i know its a bit of a long shot question but someone may know,, Thanks Greenbushy

simple take it back to where you got the work done

I generaly leave my "at" switch in economy mode this mode really suits a diesel engine that doesnt really like revs,, exceptions are if iam towing, or doing lots of stop starts around town mainly to take off in 1st gear. Economy doesnt use 1st gear but starts off in 2nd in my Terrano i take it Pathfinders are the same ?? Greenbushy

Od is overdrive, it is a ratio in the transmission that is taller than the 3rd gears 1/1 ratio, so just look at overdrive as being 4th gear. Lockup is the torque convertor locking up, ie: the convertor becomes a direct drive unit with no slippage just like the clutch on a manual vehicle. Lockup is thought to be related to overdrive by many owners but its not directly a part of overdrive, the torque convertor can accutualy be locked up in 3rd or 2nd gear as well (Not 1st or reverse without valve body modifacation on pre 95 Pathfinder/terranos) I posted this easy mod i while back on this forum for anyone interested. Advantages of locking up the convertor in mainly 3rd gear as i do is when cruising thru back roads etc at speeds that are to low for overdrive. The reason i say speed to low for overdrive is because you sholuldnt drive around at lower speeds in overdrive, its just the same as driving a manual vehicle around in top gear at low speeds and you notice how jerky it can be, same thing is happening with a auto you may not notice it because the convertor is taking most of the shock out but the transmission certainly is noticing it and will let you know when it fails at a lower milage. Greenbushy

1990 Terrano here in Australia, with 182000km on it, it does about 50/50 on off road mainly hi speed gravel off the road. And now really i havent any probs in 3 years ownership , except for the top cover o ring leak on the injection pump (diesel), which cost about 5 dollars for parts and replaced by myself ( these top cover orings leak on toyotas too so its not really a Nissan thing). I wouldn't call replacing the belts as a problem thats just general maintenance , oh yeah and have the famous noise in the left side of the dash. I have heard that these Terranos which where built for the home market (japan) where built to a higher standard than the export versions, don't know if that is true or not , but iam certainly getting a good run out of mine . While on the topic of parhfinder/terrano, i think the deisel may have a different trans cooler in the radiator because i regually check the flow on mine when i change the oil (every 20000km) and theres certainly no sign of a flow problem. Greenbushy

No you wont have to remove the wheel beariing cups ( The bit that is pressed in ) these are pressed into the hubs and the rotors are bolted to the hub, undo the nuts holding the rotor, knock the bolts out, careful here dont damage the end of the bolt use a soft brass punch, then use a hammer to seperate the rotor from the hub, it may need some effort because they ussually get rusted on. Clean up the hub where the rotor sits with some emery cloth and put a bit of never seize or grease if ya dont have any of that on the hub where the rotor sits and sit the rotor on the hub put the bolts in and tighten evenly to make sure the rotor is seated evenly. Repack you're wheel bearings ( best to wash them out with clean kerosine and air dry) with htb wheel bearing grease, refit hub and tighten wheel bearing nut with ya special screw driver and hammer use a pointed screw driver to save damaging the holes in the nut where the special tool should go. Best method to get right tension on wheel bearing is to: tighten nut up really hard basically so it cant move any more with the screw driver, rotate the hub a few turns then back the nut of so its loose, retighten the nut again till it wont move again spin the hub and loosen the nut so its just on the point of being loose by about a quarter of a turn then tighten back up about a quater of a turn, you should be able to move the nut without to much effort to get the locking screw holes to line up,, now best if ya a beginner to fit the wheel at this stage without the locking hub and one hand on top and one hand on bottom of wheel try to move back and forward should be just a little bit of movement , not much just a bit .. ya dont want the wheel bearing to be too tight or loose for that matter so try for that just a bit of movement having left the locking hub off you can still get at the nut and readjust if nessecery.. Hope this helps Greenbushy phew i need a beer after that....

Yep you guessed it the good old screw driver, i know it sounds rough but once ya been doing this sorta thing for years you get the feel for just how tight the bearings are, ya see most smaller auto repairers cannot afford every special tool for every vechicle so ya gotta improvise, obviously some shops and mechanics are better at it than others. Greenbushy

Hammer and a punch works every time in the bush and if the truth be known probably most workshops, certainly most workshops ive worked in, ,, just be careful when doing it this way Greenbushy

Having neutral in a transfer case serves the purpose of being able to atatch a P.T.O. to run youre hay baler or what ever else ya want use a pto for namely a winch...

You shouldn't lug around town in 5th gear, 5 th is an overdrive and with continued use will ruin the 5th gear cluster and syncro rings in the gearbox, better to use 4th around town,,, same applies to an auto however what happens to an auto if you lug around town in overdrive is the convertter splines will eventually strip out .. note: this appliies to any make of vechicle and not just a Pathfinder

Pity you dont have the diesel version the Terrano, because you dont have to touch the exhaust ... Greenbushy

If you have auto hubs ( which it sounds like) the grease in the hubs can become hard if 4wd is not used much and cause the hubs to try and engage. I had this same problem on my Terrano when i bought it, it was a Japenese import into Australia with 79000kms on it and looked like it had never been off road so i bought it. But soon after driving it and starting to use 4wd it started trying to engage the front hubs even in 2 wd. The solution was easy remove the hubs, ( when i removed mine i found the grease had hardened throught lack of use ) soak the hole hub assembly in kerosine overnight, blow out with air and repack with grease. Regarding youre 4wd light sounds like the switch on the transfer case is playing up. Greenbushy

Yes you're right, just remove the hub, snap ring and whhell bearing lock assem and wheel bearing retaining nut and it comes off. No need for the cv shafts to come off.