Wetnwild

Just spray that latch with "White Lithium Spray Grease", work the latch a few times and the hood should pop up. I usually check and spray the latch / hinges (hood, doors and trunk) at time of service, this schedule works for me.

When reinstalling the difficult bolts and/or nuts apply a coat of anti-seize on the thread for future removals. I've used anti-seize on lug nut on small trucks to large trucks (70,000 GVW) with good results over 20+ years (I've seen too many seize up and snap off). I know some folks like to install lug nuts on dry, but anti-seize works for me and all the vehicles I work on.

Had to cut out the rear bolts of the lower arms and the arms got damaged in the process.

Replaced the stock ones due to swaying of the rear at freeway speeds. In the future, would like to find aftermarket arms or at least install polyurethane bushings.

Does anyone manufacture aftermarket rear control arms for a '96 LE?

Check out the design of the different manufacturers, some of them have hitches that sit lower than others. I prefer to have mine sit up close to the stock bumper.

Very good point. I'll double check the bolts and get the proper ones from the dealer if need to.

X2

I'd have to agree with you on this. By the time you add up the techs time on the bars with shop rate of $80+/hour, it'd be cheaper, faster (turn around time) and a lot easier for them to just change the entire arm at the dealership.

The repair shop told my friend that she needed new rear shocks and front struts, 4 - new tires and alignment. Shop estimate $1500.00. I test drove it and it swayed side to side on the freeway, but didn't feel excessively bouncy. I thought that the shocks may not be the problem, but purchased new rear shocks anyway. Removed the rear shocks and they didn't feel bad at all. Researched online and found this website. The recommendation was to change the bushings on the rear bars. Changed out both lower arms (new). (No one had replacement bushing in stock and only one Nissan dealer had new bars only.) The front nut and bolt came out fairly easily, but the rear bolt near the rear end had to be cut out with a grinder and cut-off wheel which took most of the day. The rear bolts had to be replaced, none at dealer so bought grade 8 metric bolts. I guess after 200,000 + miles it's not surprising that the bolts were rusted in. Even spraying PB Blaster and letting it sit over night did help the rear nuts and bolts. A buddy gave me a hand with replacing the top bars and that took about 2 hours. (New bars from dealer) Now, my friend is not afraid to drive it again. No side to side swaying on freeways anymore. I wanted to "thank" the members of this site for the recommendation!