InfamousDuckMan

Are these what you're thinking of? Saw these a while ago, not sure how effective/legal they'd be. Might be alright if you want to have them alternate for Emergency lights photo hosting

photo upload I know its kind of hard to see in the picture, The white pole sticking out of my roof is a 2.1 metre GME antenna, In Australia we use UHF radios as the standard, but the principle is the same.

Not sure if this has been mentioned before, but I put a kit similar to this on my Truck... its MAGICAL, & almost Road legal here in Victoria (Australia). By some ridiculous regulation, it needs to be Hi/Lo (ok), but also needs individual washers (wtf?). Hi/Lo HID BI-XENON KIT http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/300525389973 The Pathfinder stock wiring serves only as a switch, ie from the stock headlight control stalk. Theres an adadpter that plugs straight in. The actual lights are powered independently off the battery, with an independent relay, control box, ballasts & new globes. The kit even comes with bayonet adapters to fit the H4 headlight slot. It took all of 30 minutes to install... with a torch in the dark... So far the only other thing I needed to do was tape off the back end so its waterproof. Awesome. --DuckMan.

Have a look at these types of lights on Ebay, theres heaps around from heaps of different sellers, in heaps of different locations. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/55w-HID-Driving-Lights-7-inch-EURO-399-00-PAIR-/170658138840?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27bc048ad8 I have only a single pair of these on the roof of the Duck Truck, and they really do live up to their standard. --DuckMan.

Thanks y'all. Very Helpful. --DuckMan.

So I have a whirring sound from my engine, narrowed it down to this patricular wheel off my A/C belt, but its not the belt itself. I need to go to Repco & pick up a replacement bearing, but I dont know what the part would be listed as. Here it is: --DuckMan.

G'day! I know its been a while since the last post, but I saw this & figured on a solution. The wheelspin you're getting in the mud, its only on the wheel that has no traction, ie. Right/Front wheel is spinning, but Left/Front wheel is sitting still? Opposite for the rear? If this is the case, its not you're hubs, even though Manual hubs are awesome. Its the centre of your diffs releasing the open wheel for on road turning. This video explains it pretty well. Lockers are expensive, but REALLY worth their money. --DuckMan.

So I hit a Kangaroo, made my panels look a bit sad. Got that all fixed up ($1200 later). Then I needed a bumper. I bit the bullet, Called ARB & got some advice. When the guy looked it up, The ARB Deluxe Bullbar for the WD21s is now showing as 'Superseded', ie, ARB is not making them anymore. He did find 2 bars in stock, in South Australia & New South Wales, which would be about $90 in freight in addition to the $1267 to supply & fit it. In light of that I've decided not to go with the ARB & try to find a way to do it myself, but just thought I'd let y'all know. THEY'RE GONE!! --DuckMan.

Just as a point of interest, thought I'd add this. I called ARB yesterday, to Supply & Fit the Deluxe Bar here in Melbourne is $1100. Its a shame they've canned it over there, but its being made over here... Despite being stupidly expensive. --DuckMan.

G'day everyone, So I'm overhauling my installs, & I'm just wondering how do I best run cables from on top of the dashboard, so they go down the firewall & either into the engine bay or to the back of devices in the radio slots. Any ideas? --DuckMan.

So I am going to do the cone filter idea in my 94, but since I really can't be bothered taking the stock filter off just to measure it, does anyone happen to know the tube's diameter for the adapter piece?

As for CBs, I would always go for a Fibreglass antenna (ie. The Firestick in your example) over a whip because they maintain their rigidity & therefore the signal wont flex because the antenna wont flex... much. Also, the fibreglass Firesticks are specifically tuned to the application, in your case 27MHz CB, as a whip may not be, & may require extra tuning. Your only issue now is to look at your total height clearance. If you want to get under carparks & bridges, Whip. If not too worried, Fibreglass. I like my GME. It gets a lot of people walking past, looking straight up. HA! --DuckMan.

G'day! I had the same problem on my 94 a while ago. It got quite annoying when doing U turns. Anyways, my solution was to bite the bullet, & pay the $600 AUD for a Genuine Nissan service. This problem was fixed when they flushed my steering system (the whole lot) & filled it again. This was one of quite a few things that have dramatically improved since the genuine service. Awesome. --DuckMan.

I won this roo bar on Ebay... for $1. Furthermore when I got to Bendigo to pick it up the bloke I bought it from admired my 2 hour drive (& another 2 to get back) that he let me keep my dollar... my precious dollar. I was told it came off this bloke's Landcruiser that got rolled. It has a custom winch mount in the middle, & isnt significantly damaged anywhere. Has about 50% of surface rust, & has no existing mounts. Any suggestions or things I should look out for when making this bar fit my rig? Chime in with anything y'all feel like saying! --DuckMan.

I had exactly the same problem, I had the grinding issue covered HERE, then did the overfill, & my syncro died, as I outlined HERE. Check these threads out, the people here gave me some real helpful feedback. --DuckMan.