schickdog

My 88 is going to require taking the spacer off the pathy alt shaft and cutting it from 1/2" to 1/4" and putting it on the maxi alt. Not exactly a "true bolt on" for me, but nothing is ever easy. However, one week until Big Bend and some serious wheeling.

Um, question... Don't you need to install the fan from the v belt alt as well onto the maxi alt? won't the maxi alt burn up without the v belt fan? I'm trying the same swap.

I have looked all over the intarnet and haven't been able to find one. the local junkyards got rid of all the pre90 models. or, does anyone know if the 90 has one/the same? or if anyone has one for sale? my pathy is running awful.

so, i cranked my Tbars about 6 months ago. i went and did some low key wheeling and have put 3k in miles on them since i did it. Now, the upper boots on the halfshaft is torn/broken/fubar/ripped/etc and leaking... I only took a quick glance and the description is kind of vague so i apologize for that. so i guess i have to pull the halfshaft and look to see if i trashed the seal at the transaxle. my question is, how do i know if i trashed the upper knuckle on the halfshaft? should i just buy a new one? it's $80 bucks after the core charge. secondly, to permanantly solve this, i was going to buy extended Aarms from AC. Will i also need to purchase balljoint spacers too? or will the new Aarms not require them? i know the point of Aarms is to correct the angle, but will it be enough? ugh. thanks for the read.

To pull the motor or not... I'm with you Robert. I have to do all 3 of those myself. I am leaking oil now at the the rear main seal, i have that stupid exhaust problem, the boots at the front axles are shot and leaking grease, and i have the miscellaneous frame rot. I can do it all except for the welding. I just really don't know if i have the energy to do it. I am wondering if it will even be worth it. shoot, it didn't leak a drop until this stupid cold snap (10 degrees, that's cold in Texas) and all the seals went to crap. Mister 510, you have an 01 xterra tranny? swaps right out? and what other years will work?

anyone?

ebay wow. lil pricey but man....

hey guys, little clarification please. 88 vg30 and trying to replace my sensor. I have replaced the temperature gauge sensor and that's all good. but, i don't see the coolant ECU temp sensor. there is a plug just to the left of the gauge sensor that is capped with an allen head bolt. I don't see the temp sensor anywhere. any help please? THanks!

02 sensor. fixed.

starting to idle real rough. it died when cold, almost dies at idle, misses bad, lots of smoke. I'm gonna bet it's the 02 sensor. $123 at autozone but it's my only option if i want to be on the beach in 6 hours. ugh.

and if it is a sticking choke, can i just spray carb cleaner ?

will the ecu throw codes if no engine light comes on? yeah i cleaned the MAF and the connections are good. The o2 sensor is original so that's a suspect. all the vacuum lines are good too. it just happened all of a sudden. it was running like a top. weird. I am at work right now but i will double check everything tomorrow. I have a 5 hour drive planned tomorrow to head to South Padre island for a little wheeling. My question is, would you drive yours that far if its running a little rough and sputtering black smoke? it also misses in the 3000+ rpm area. no black smoke while revving tho. Maybe a stuck choke? it is the "electro ignition".

Hey all. VG3.0 xev6. sudden onset of rough idle 1/2 way thru a tank of gas. Air filter is fine, fuel filter is new. cleaned the TBI, new cap, rotor, plugs, oil about 1K miles ago. black smoke. Runs fine but idles rough. ideas?

Just wanted to say a quick hello. i have posted up before but have been trying to get my 88 pathy up to snuff before posting. I am finally happy with it. It was stock stock stock. in the last few years it has seen most of Texas, Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona, Nevada and Utah all on stock suspension and sagging torsion bars and rear springs. I finally got motivated and re indexed 3 splines, did the JGC coils, new isolators, sway bar bushings, KYB shocks and struts and put it on BFG 31's. I also had white 15" wagon wheels which have since been painted satin black. Next will be the UCA 1/2" spacers, ball joints, and all new bushings to really make the suspension nice. The interior is in fantastic shape. The motor has the obvious header tick. I rebuilt the A/C. Hmm. what else? I am having a little mixture problem right now. I will post up in the garage area on it tho. let me know what you think.

hey all. i posted up about my 88 in the other section, but have a new issue with a different vehicle. so my pops has a 97 v6 4wd 155k. his service engine light came on, and the code is p0420, and that is "catalytic system efficiency below threshold, bank 1". I scoured the forums and couldn't find anything, so i apologize if i missed it.anyways, pops took the pathy to the dealership and they said $1300. riiiiiiight. Here's the first kicker. the pathy has 2 cats total. one per side, up front, right off the exhaust manifold. We got told that those pathys have 4 cats total, 2 per side. Anyone know for a fact what is supposed to be? His truck has been passing emissions every year with flying colors, so it's not been an issue not having the rear pair of cats, if in fact they have 2 pairs of cats. he bought the truck in 98 with 20K, so i can't imagine someone doing some custom exhaust work in the first 20K. so, my question is, 2 cats or 4 cats total? then, p0420, bank 1? the front 2 cats, correct? or is bank side-dependent? autopartswarehouse.com also lists 4 different cats, front right, left, rear right, left, each ~$220/piece. anyone dealt with them and the quality of their parts? and, is it a huge PITA or just a small PITA to change em? everything is bolt up, so no welding. Chime in with your $0.02. Thanks a million!

oops. forgot, 88 v6 3.0. and the hydrocarbons were 330ppm @ ~850rpm, not 330rpm. it's an "electo-ignition". is the idle adjust screw the big one behind the throttle linkage? and tighten to increase? been a while since i jacked w idle. also the oil is fresh, maybe 150 miles on it, 10/30. 93 octane gas, otherwise it knocks a lil. and just like every other, it has the exhaust-manifold tick. and thanks for the replies.

Well, i fixed my starting issues, now on to how-well-she-runs. Actually, she runs like a top, the a/c blows icecubes, and gets 22 mpg city. take that. The problem is she won't pass inspection. Take a stab at this one. The truck has too high hydrocarbons at idle. O2, Co2, and CO are good, and hC' are fine at 2500rpm, but again, at idle is ~330. All vacuum lines are accounted for. I ran Seafoam 1 month? ago. SHe has new NGK plugs, wires, cap, rotor, PCV valve, air filter, and the EGR valve and the AIC valve are working fine. So i am assuming that she's running too rich. any thoughts, and if so, how do you lean it out?

the definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over but expecting different results. well, insanity was aplenty. after pullling the battery, testing good twice and 2 different locations, pulling the starter, alternator, swapping batteries, and going over the whole wiring harness, the pathy would start everytime with the battery from the other car. So i went and bought a Diehard battery and that fixed everything. Oh ya, F Walmart. Peace out.

hello all. 1st post. This is kinda long but it should be a great read. I love my truck but i am about to blow it up. I have an 88 xev6 4wd with 210K on it. It's just a great little beater and don't want to get rid of it but its been giving me some problems and i am at wits end trying to figure it out. Here goes... So a year ago, it started leaving me stranded with the dead/dying-battery-but-its-really-the-starter play. It would wind down like the dying battery, but it would start with a smack to the starter. So i replace the starter and no probs till now. Same presentation, the truck would just start turning over slower and slower day by day until it just turns 2 or 3 times slow, then clicks. nor would it turn over with the ol' starter-smack manuever. I pull the battery, have it tested, and its good. * it is a walmart Neverstart (i have not entirely ruled out a BS "battery's good" verdict). the battery also is at 12.2 volts. (rated 750 cca) I pull the 6 month old starter and put in another new one, just for giggles and because i like doing the same hard job twice. I put it all back together, and same freaking problem, the truck turns over like a dying battery, relegating itself to some pseudo-clicks. Read: clicks, multiple, not the typical single "clunk" starters give with a real-deal dead battery. Also, the battery had been on a trickle charger for 18 hours. So, I pull another battery from my hotrod, i know is good, same deal. starter spins real slow, then clicks. Figure this one out. i put the battery back into the hot rod (03 mustang gt), start the hot rod, and then jump my pathy. still spins slow, but a touch faster. truck starts and runs great. the same battery 12.2 volts off now reads 8.6 to 9.7 volts at terminals witht the truck running. Dammit. So i disconnect the battery witht the pathy running and the pathy dies instantly. hook cables back up, starts no prob (but slow), I figure it's gotta be the alternator, but all the electronics work fine and headlights are bright. Well, i pull the alternator and low and behold, the black wire to the "bat" post is corroded and completely breaks once i touch it. Gotta be the problem, right? Wrong. Here's my first question. on the back of the alternator, it's got the plug in clip with 2 wires, that's in good shape and i also checked/cleaned the connection upstream from that, you know, the one by the air induction valve system. Dont even get me started on emissions testing and the retardness of imposing 2008 standards on a 1988 vehicle, but i digress. So, the plug, connections, are good. there is also the obligitory post for the black wire back to the battery. BUT, there is a black wire coming out of what looks like a capacitor. There was also a screw into the alternator housing with a stamped "E" next to it. When i yanked it, there was a black wire Oring connected to that screw/alt body, and that was run to the frame, so i assume that was supposed to be a ground. So, was that the ground? the black wire out of the capacitor thingy? The reason i ask is after i have the alternator tested/replaced, i want to know how to rewire what needs rewiring. Obviously, reclip the clip, battery wire to the "Bat" post, and then am i done? or do i need to run a ground wire? Ahhh i'm so frustrated. So, my to do list is 1. check the battery at another establishment 2. test the alternator second question... What else? Also, the battery terminals are clean, corrosion free, scraped... negative ground is good, directly to the block...