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95champagnepath

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Posts posted by 95champagnepath

  1. Can you see light thru the radiator if you put a light between it and the the AC?

    Did you you use more than 50% coolant? ("coolant" is acutually not very thermal efficeint, it prevents boiling, freezing and corosion but the water does 90% of the cooling)

    Did you burp the system of air?

    Using purified water instead of hose water may help as well.

     

    3/4 is about normal, my truck used to run that in cali. Higher is a little concerning esp if it crosses over into the H.

     

    I'll check the light technique when it's a little darker. What would that determine? The coolant I put in is 50/50 water and coolant with a boiling temp at 265 degrees. How would I remove any air in the system? Haven't added any water to the system.

     

    Well, 3/4 is too hot unless you have a malfunctioning temp gauge. The new radiator, T-stat and cap is a good idea but it seems like you are right on the hairyedge of the cooling system efficiency if the AC can push it that much farther (remember that the AC condensor is in front of the radiator so it will heat up the air pre-radiator). Could you have any scale or corrosion in your water channels? Perhaps a cooling system chemical flush would help?? The fan clutch would only make a difference at idle/slow speeds.

     

    If you have not gone to the Garage section and downloaded the FSM for your year, do so (hint, pinned at the top) and check how to trouble shoot the sensor. Hopefully there is a resistance spec.

     

    Also do you have any thermometer, either from a multimeter, meat thermometer or anything thay you could get an actual temperature reading of the coolant??

     

    B

     

    Don't think there is any corrosion. Nothing was visible. What kind of chemical would be used for the chemical flush? I'll check the FSM's and try to get a temp on the coolant.

     

    do you have a shrowd on your fan / rad?

     

    Yeah still has it. As well as skid plate, which one mechanic said would help cooling, but not too sure how it would effect it... haha

     

    My fan clutch on my 94 was shot and the truck, even in traffic would never go near the halfway point on the temp gauge, even with the ac on and it's in the high 90's here everyday, with the new fan clutch it is still reading the same temp, and I tried replacing the sender for the gauge just to see if the original one was bad, same temp with either sender.

     

    I would do as previously suggested and see if there may be air in the system which will make it run hotter, also I just bought some coil cleaner (from Home Depot) for my home AC unit and some of the people that used it and reviewed this cleaner said it worked really well on their condensers in their vehicles,

     

     

    Odd thing is, the A/c still blows cold at this temp and sometimes is even colder than when it's running at halfway mark.

  2. So recently after moving down here to az, I've noticed that while driving on the freeways with the A/c running or just having the path sit at idle in the sunlight with the A/c running will cause the pathfinder to heat up rather high. Around 3/4 of the temp gauge and sometimes even higher. Not sure what the actual temp is. You can feel a loss in power while driving at that temp as well.

     

    Just a couple days ago, I dropped a new radiator, radiator cap, and thermostat in. Flushed the coolant, and it's got a new water pump as well. Figured that would do the trick, but it's still running pretty hot on the freeways :scratchhead: . Once I turn off the A/c or run without the A/c, it'll warm up right to halfway, maybe even a little less.

     

    Was wondering if anyone had any ideas on what could be the issue. No leaks, at least that I can find. Could it be a bad sensor?? These past few weeks it's been over 105 and sometimes even above 115. Could it just be too hott? It only happens when I run the A/c as well. Possibly the fan? But that runs at idle so I wouldn't think it would stop spinning when driving on the freeway. Any ideas??

  3. Yeah. The guy seems pretty firm on $1000. Not to sure how he thinks it's worth anywhere near that. Found another pathy being auctioned off tomorrow. Extremely clean, over $6k put into it for repairs and replacements over the past few years. 205k. Unfortunate that I have to let that one go. Will easily get bidded up to the $2k range.

  4. He stated that the motor in it currently has 97k. I have the place to fix it. Kinda unsure on the cost of the fix. Should have time haha. I'm thinking of probably going no higher than 500 for it. $1000 is pretty steep that's for sure.

     

    Yeah I thought about that one. It looks a little more beat, not too sure on how to put in a fuel filter, and the paint looks pretty sun beaten. What do you see in that one Koveman?

  5. So found this fixer upper for $1k. Thinking I'll offer him around $400 for it. This is the listing http://phoenix.craigslist.org/wvl/cto/1636887507.html Emailed him about the valves and this is what he told me... and I quote....

     

    "Well I replaced the water pump and while I was down there I replaced the timing belt! It's an interferance motor and I put the timing belt on but it must have jumped a few teeth and I think that caused the piston to bent a few valves! I'm not a mechanic but that's my guess because now it has no compression. Yes I do have an extra set of head I have a whole motor for it but I was just going to use the heads off it! It's a great truck for 1000 dollars moat everything under the hood is new"

     

    Anyone have an idea on how much that could run me? Is the motor even repairable? Or would you say it's just a waste of time?

     

    Thanks for any advice. It is much appreciated.

  6. Hey guys, I have a 93 SE that had a factory alarm that has worked well since I bought the truck. My button on my remote broke a couple years ago, but it was still fine until just a couple months ago. I unplugged my battery to do a tune-up and do some maintenance and when I plugged the battery back in, the alarm light on the center console began blinking fast, and the alarm stopped working...I've done some searching, and have seen that some people have had the same problem, but I couldn't find any solutions. Nothing even in the factory alarm service manuals that are posted on this forum...any ideas?

     

    I've checked the fuse in the fusebox, checked the connections, etc...maybe something I missed. I haven't taken the time to completely take the box out from under the seat though...maybe something with that?

     

    I know sometimes when you take the battery out it can reset things. I know on the Honda we have, we replaced the battery and all the auto windows weren't auto anymore. Not sure how to get them back. Also when the light blinks fast, I think it's trying to say that it was tampered with or something like that. It could be the box. Taking the driver's seat out is a piece of cake so testing the connections wouldn't be a hard thing to do. An after market alarm wouldn't be a bad idea either... Food for thought.

  7. I got the same intake. It took me maybe like 20min to put in. The tone is my favorite thing about it. Though I think I've lost hp rather than gained any. I have a hard time going over 95mph. I used to be doing around 110 with the stock intake design. (only when the freeway is wide open of course, and on rare occasions :) ) Not a bad buy and an easy install.

  8. Are you planing to replace them with stock horns or something different? Just the other night my friend and i was talking bout replacing mine with some that sound like a semi's :FartExplode-vi:

     

    So far I was thinking just stock. Is your friend talking about an air horn? Or do they make car horns that sound like that as well?

  9. I have that same intake in mine. Sounds pretty mean. I couldn't get mine to fit as nicely as yours did though. Couldn't really mount it on anything either.... But so far no issues. Little bit of a power increase and mpgs. I though it was a pretty good buy for the money.

  10. here%27s+your+sign+libtards.JPG lol im kiddin

     

    haha yeah.. good one... haha. An Air horn would be sweet, but I hear wiring it up is a pain. Really wish I could have used it yesterday though, man the bad drivers down here in AZ.

  11. I looked at replacing the wires on mine but the corrosion I could see was at the base of the horn where the wires go into it, so there was nothing to solder, splice or connect to. So I just replaced it. New one was like $25.

     

    Alright. I'll take a look at it over the weekend. Thanks for the insight. Where did you happen to find a new one?

  12. Yup, you threw them away. Look at it as a chance to buy one that don't sound like a Civic now!

     

    Haha those are the best. They scream "GET THE F*/- OUT OF MY WAY" haha. Well at least that's how I interpret it.

  13. So when putting on my front bumper a few weeks ago, there were these two round things that I took off for easier access to the mounting bolts. I threw them away and today noticed the my horn isn't working. I figured that they were impact sensors for the alarm... But now that I think about it, they're probably not. I was wondering if anyone has a picture of the horn? I know there's alarm siren under the brake fluid container. I searched pics and ebay, but could not find anything.

  14. Sounds like you are making progress.

    The LED staying on for 30 seconds then starting a slow flash means it is arming correctly. The siren not working is not surprising since it has been exposed to the elemets in the engine bay for 15+years.

    You have some corroded wiring to it more than likely. Replace it and you should be in business. Mine would chirp every so often because of this, replaced it and it is noisy now. :)

    You front and rear parking lamps should flash now as well when you arm and disarm it.

     

    I guess over exposure would make sense. The lights do flash when I arm it though, But only after I switch it off and lock and unlock it, then to on and lock it again. Kinda screwy. So are saying to replace the whole siren or just rewire what I have?

  15. Thanks. The Closed Doors did the trick. It recognizes the remote, but now I can't seem to get the alarm to go off. Each time I turn the key I have to switch the alarm from off to on in order for it to recognize the remote again. So tried leaving it running for 5 min, turning it off, pretending to get out, and have someone outside lock it with the remote from outside. The LED stayed on for a moment then did its slow flash (armed I guess). Waited a few min and unlocked it from within and got nothing more than the Tampered warning (LED stays lit and constant beeps). From what I can tell the main siren is hooked up. It doesn't chirp though, only beeps from the main unit under the seat when a button it pressed. Also there is no panic, that button as well as the trunk button all lock and unlock the same as the lock button :scratchhead:. Any ideas?

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