jyeager
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Posts posted by jyeager
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Don't over do it if you test the AC pressure. Too much pressure in the AC will also make it not as cold. PO on my 93 over charged it and when we moved to the desert I let about 20psi out of it and it started blowing cold in 110F weather.
Also test your Idle up solenoid, It should be kicking up your idle when the AC is running so that the compressor spins at the appropriate minimum speed to keep you cool.
I think If your idle is dipping below 900 with the compressor running that could be your problem.
Thanks for that advice. I will make sure that my pressures are within factory specs. The service manual lists expected pressures at given ambient temperature ranges.
Are you saying that even when stopped with the transmission in DRIVE, my idle speed with the AC on should be raised at least to 900? Or without the load of the transmission in gear?
I will have to test that. I can't say that I notice the idle speed when I turn the A/C on and off, so perhaps that's not working.
Thanks.
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Just to confirm, there is no way to do this wrong (assuming the strut tops stay on the original side) and change camber.
Correct. The only part that is left/right specific is the strut itself.
The strut mount isolator (the part you are referring to), if aligned wrong, just won't bolt up right and you will be forced to realign it.
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I will check the Freon (haven't yet due to busy weekend). But I did check the fan clutch.
I drove an errand in 95 degree temps, ended the drive in stop and go surface streets, then idled in park for 5 minutes. All of this with the AC on.
Then I shut off the truck, opened the hood and the fan spun freely.
Seems like an obvious situation in which the clutch should have been locked. Agreed?
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Thanks guys, I will check those things.
I do have a manifold/gauge and can check pressures.
However, the talk about the fan clutch...that clutch only engages when it's hot enough. Do you think that 80+ degrees F, is hot enough to lock the clutch? (obviously not)
Sure, once the truck is HOT, but when first starting it up it won't be.
So it seems as though you would agree that the A/C won't work well upon initial startup for a few minutes then, if idling or stop n go? (that seems reasonable)
You might be right about my fan clutch....However, my engine never overheats in stop and go traffic. But that's based on watching the temperature gauge which is probably designed like most others in that it stays in the middle until it's WAY hot, then moves up.
I can easily test the fan clutch, but at what ambient temperature is it supposed to lock up?
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My A/C works fine when moving down the road at a nice clip, but is quite unacceptable when stopped or driving stop and go.
Obviously this is due to insufficient air flow through the condenser. Is it Nissan's engineering shortcoming or is something in the system not operating properly in my '97?
Unless a previous owner removed it, there is no electric fan to push or pull air through the condenser when the A/C is on. The mechanical clutch fan seems to do fine at keeping the engine cool, but doesn't do the trick for A/C.
Is this the case with all of you? Or is there something wrong with my truck? If this is normal, has anyone installed an auxiliary fan and found improvement?
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Ok. I replaced tie rod ends, ball joints and sway bar link ends. Just got back from alignment but still having same issue steering real hard to one side or the other. Shop said everything was tight. I replaced power steering fluid and noticed small air bubbles along with dark fluid. I changed that out with Lucas power steering stop leak stuff. It didn't fix the problem. There is a whining noise close to full turns in park?
So I think it's power steering pump or hopeful not the rack. Any other ideas?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That whine from the power steering pump at full lock turn is normal. It's just the pressure in the system getting very high. All cars do that.
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Excel-G is all they have for our application.
You could have looked this up on kyb's website just like I did:
Left: 335016
Right: 335015
You might consider getting the strut boots: SB129
If you do, you can get the kit that gives you mount, bearing and boot in one part# SM5329.
I would re-use your current bolts since they are already the right size for your spacers.
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Mine does the same thing. I rarely have 2 adults in the back, but last time I did I bottomed out a couple of times just as you describe. Plus, when sitting empty, the suspension really only looks to have about 3" of down travel left before the bumpstops.
My driver side bump stop is ruined, which is probably why the bottom-out feels so harsh.
I'm sure it's normal and just a result of the suspension's design (optimized for a smoother car-like ride).
If you get new bump stops, that should return things to normal. Setting down on the plush rubber will be firm, but probably shouldn't be harsh as you are experiencing.
My philosophy is that shocks are there to dampen spring oscillations, not to act as augmentation for the spring rate. I wouldn't try to solve this with firmer shocks.
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Dear XPLORx4,
Thanks for your Help, I will update you after adjusting the idle speed.
Idle speed varies on operating temperature, from 1100 to 1250RPM for my car, means after a long drive when braught back to a Parking, this shows 1250RPM which gives maximum thrust on shifting gear from Parking to Drive/ Reverse, and after normal driving, its 1100RPM.
Hope this variation is normal.
Your engine's idle speed seems a little bit high. That's all.
I think that normal idle speed, when engine is fully warm and transmission is in PARK, should be 750-850ish... (that is NOT official numbers from the service manual though, just my guess).
The RPMs will drop further when the transmission is in DRIVE. Perhaps 650-750.
The variation in your engine's idle speed (assuming all readings are a fully warmed up engine), could suggest that you might have a vacuum leak. That would also explain the idle being higher than normal.
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The ignition coil is built into a 3.3 distributer
Sent from fat fingers on S6
Right, but that's not a part that was changed.
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You mentioned new plugs, wires, cap and rotor. But not the ignition coil.
So that's still a possibility....
Does it do it when you first start the vehicle cold, during the first minute of operation? (Open Loop)
Actually, find and disconnect the coolant temp sensor and test drive it.
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Icebox, after the engine swap was there any time during which the misfire was gone? Or has it continued as always right from then?
Second question: is it dependent on engine LOAD? for instance, does it happen in first gear? second gear? third gear? Or only overdrive?
When it's happening, if you lift off the throttle about 50% does it diminish?
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Or you can check this company for one... http://www.woodwardsteering.com/
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I am not very knowledgeable in this area...but aren't the ecm/pcm codes standard and the ABS codes are manufacturer specific? Or at least not part of OBDII per se and thereby not supported or readable by all code readers?
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If the alignment is good (you need to have it checked), but it goes nuts when turning, then the ackerman is screwed up and that only happens when things are bent.
I think your son has been way too crazy with this pathfinder.
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I've got a really bad noise at startup but it then fades to a ticking noise once it begins running. Can still drive but wondering if maybe a valve spring is broken. Is it possible to check if a valve spring is broken with out removing cam shaft? Can you just press on the lifter or is cam shaft removal the only way?
This engine has overhead cams. When you remove the valve cover you see the cam shaft, not to mention the valve springs. So it wouldn't even be necessary to press on a lifter, you would see it.
The hydraulic lifters are a more common failure part than a valve spring and the valve spring breaking is usually more disruptive than you are describing. What you describe sounds to me like a bad lifter.
The simplest test for a valve train related failure (valve, spring, lifter, rocker arm) is to run a compression test on your cylinders. Any cylinder with a valve train problem will show it on the compression test. To do that you only need to remove the spark plugs, which is probably easier than removing valve covers.
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While driving my '97 to work, I stopped at a stoplight, then went to go when it turned green and the Pathfinder jerked, then I couldn't get it past 20 or so mph. I parked it immediately, and went to start it approximately 45 minutes later. No start. Several hours later, started up and ran fine. Drove it home, drove it back to work, and it started stumbling after 6 or so miles. Now, it's got a rough idle and will occasionally stall. I've replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump, no change. Any ideas? Thanks!
I'm leaning towards a spark problem.
You couldn't get it to start after sitting for 45 minutes, I'm going to guess that was open loop then, but can't be sure.
You can verify it by forcing open loop. You could disconnect one of the sensors needed for closed loop operation, like the coolant temp sensor, the MAF sensor...
You will get a trouble code, but the truck should stay in open loop for you. If all is fine then, you can be sure it's a sensor problem that pertains to closed loop operation.
But if you still have the stumbling, stalling, or failure to start, you can be pretty sure it's spark related (but can't completely rule out fuel pump).
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I replaced my speakers a while back and had no such issue.
It's both rear speakers?
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Question: Why do you want to maintain the same spring rate as OEM?
I don't have a strong conviction about the spring rate...just that the stock springs have a pretty soft and compliant ride on the road. I would expect the AC springs with a fairly high spring rate, relative to stock, would change the ride quality...not sure if it would bother me..perhaps I'd like it. I can't really say because I've not ridden in a Pathfinder equipped with them.
What are your thoughts on spring rate as it relates to riding off road? Does the higher rate spring give better off-road performance, or does it toss you back and forth a lot as one front wheel rides over something? (I would assume the sway bar is disconnected...leaving it connected wouldn't really let the springs operate independently).
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I was trying to keep the question as simple as possible...Probably should have stopped at just asking for corner weights.
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Everything mentioned seems spot on but hold on a minute...
Hey now, don't go changing the question! Which is it?
Point is, really, that there is more than one way to get there for the 1-2" lift you were first talking aboot. SFDs are quite common now, have several write ups as well.
B
Not changing the question!
I want 6" of lift....4 inch SFD, plus 2 more inches.
That's usually done with the SFD and AC springs (up front)
The suggestion was to use a spacer with stock springs....can't do that in this situation because it wouldn't be wise to add a 2" spacer with a 4" spacer...
So the question, stated another way, is: how do I get a 2" spring lift with stock(ish) spring rate?
1) custom coils
2) someone suggested the OME springs...not quite 2" of lift, but perhaps a good compromise.
Thanks!
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Technically 'control arm' and 'trailing link' are specific terms...but they are almost always used as generic terms. In regard to the truck's rear suspension, they are often used interchangeably.
The correct specific terms for our trucks would be 'Panhard bar' for the arm that runs horizontal.
and 'Lower link' for the longer arms and 'Upper link' for the shorter arms above the axle.
When you buy new control arms, you should already have new bushings in them. You can expect rubber. Rubber is actually good for a truck, IMO.
I would put Poly bushings in a performance car, but in a truck, why not enjoy the extra bit of comfort you can get when hitting bumps?
Besides, unless you get custom arms with a spherical bearing on one end...the only articulation you get is from twisting of the metal control arms and flexing of the rubber bushings....You will really limit suspension flex if you get the poly bushings.
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Above the strut is where you would want the spacer anyway, as to put it between the coil and top hat would limit travel and create top out. This also maintains stock ride.
Right, but you don't want to stack a 4" spacer and 2" spacer up there, do you?
air conditioning
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
Hmmm.
That confuses me then. How to tell if it's locked or not? The sound of the fan the only way then?
FWIW, I have NEVER heard fan noise from my truck.