trtturbo

nothing yet. I have been busy working and havent checked it out. Its still a ways from running, so it hasnt been a priority. I did pull all the emissions stuff though . I guess I'm almost afraid to see what happened. I plan on getting to it in the morning.

Well, I took it all off. The AIV thing fell apart when I took it out. I'm sure it wasnt doing me any good in the condition it was it. It sure looks cleaner too; lots more room. Seems to run just the same.

AIV? Air injection valve? Is that the big solonoid looking thing in front of the canister?

2nd that on "whats AC". I found the tire carrier cheap, but didnt get it.

did you take everything out, or just uplug it. I wanted to take it all out. It would make it much cleaner looking under the hood.

rag joint looks fine. everything under the hood looks normal. If I grab it and try to turn it, its the same as before I did the lift. The steering wheel feels like it would if the shaft was'nt on it. I guess I'll get into it tomorrow. I did lube it alot, but I guess it was too tight. Hope I didnt tear anything bad up.

I did, but something else came loose. The steering wheel is not attatched anymore. You can spin it endlessly. I was just wondering if anyone else ever had this happen. Everything else was no problem, but I'm thinking I broke something in the column.

Has anyone taken the charcoal canister and the other smog stuff that clutters up the drivers front fender area? If so, any issues? Run the same; better? I dont have any issue with getting an inspection sticker and would love to clean it up some.

not much rusting on this one. I'm in Dallas and its dry. Hope its an easy fix.

Installed my 3" body lift on my '89 yesterday. Everything went great except for one thing. I lubed the steering shaft like it said in the "how to" and it said it would slide out some. Well, it didnt and now I dont have any steering at all. Feels like something pulled out in the column in side the cab. Anyone had this happen? If so, what is it? I havent looked yet. Just getting everything else finished up.

has anyone put a factory spare tire carrier on their Pathy that didnt come with one? any issues? I found one in a junk yard for cheap.

the cb I have. (trucker in a previous life). I was already planning on doing custom bumpers and having them hold air. I have a friend that is a fab guy, so bumpers should be easy. This some of his work on a Camaro we did; exhaust, sub-frame connectors, and loop.

Thanks alot Pathmaker. Couple of questions. There isnt alot of power there. I know the 31's will hurt power, but I thought the 33's would absolutely kill it. Its a 5 speed and now with stock size tires, it seems very low geared, but still no power to spare. Forgive my ignorance, but what is a center link? Is it the link between the pitman arm and idler arm? Why does it need to be updated?

Here is what I plan. Anyone feel free to chime in as I am new to this. Performance Accessories 3" body lift. JGC coils UCA's new ball joints Swayaway torsion bars Lockers front and rear Rancho shocks Panhard bar relocate? 15x8 wheels with 4" back spacing 32x 11.5/15 tires Electric fan conversion Remove front and rear sway bars. Hope to fab up some rock sliders (edit) add manual Superwinch hubs (edit) add alternator upgrade I'm not wanting to do crazy stuff, but want a better than average truck. This is not a daily driver either; just for fun.

I am slowly getting my '89 prepared for some off road fun. It sure seems like a great platform for what I want. Anyone want to share any stories of what your Pathy could go through where other 4x4's couldnt?

I have the hinges with no wing if your interested.

I know that. It just goes off all the time. Like if I open the door to get something out and shut it and lock it, it goes off.

'89 Pathy; alarm will not turn off. No remote, just the little switch below the radio. Is there a fuse just for it or any other way to keep it from going off. I followed the owners manual, and it was no help.

Yea, sorry. Search is my friend!

I see alot of you guys doing it. What is the benefit? I assume its an easy swap?

I think I'm going to just go with another motor. I found one with 108k on it. I can put a T-belt on before the install and I should be good for a long while. $550.00 is what they want. Seems about average and its local in the Dallas area.

this is not valve ticking. The same noise that goes away after a few seconds happens as you drive and get above 1800 rpms or so. The noise is very loud. Dont think there is any issue with rings. Absolutely no smoke, no missing, motor is responsive off idle doing little revs. Do these motors ever jump a tooth and if so, what is the result? Will one tooth off cause the pistons to hit the valves? I'm not a novice, but dont have any experience with this motor. All mine is with LSx based g.m. motors. Motor has 227k on it and the guy I bought it from acted like "whats that" when I asked him about the timing belt. I kindof leaning toward just putting a motor in. I can do the timing belt before the install and it will have lower miles hopefully. Also, if I do a motor, can I buy a '94 or '95 motor and just put my intake on? Is everything the same?

Just bought an '88 for $500.00. Seller said engine was knocking. Got it home and it was 3+ qts low on oil. Put oil in and jumped it off. Rattled for about 2 seconds and cleared up. At idle it sounds normal. If you rev it a little it rattles/ knocks, but only as the rpms go up, not down. Went and drove it and as it gets above 1800 rpms or so, the engine sounds terrible. It did seem low on power too. I am prepared to put a motor in, but here is my question. Is there a chance it jumped time? It starts a little different than my '89, sort of like its out of time, but when you rev it a little; off idle to 1500 or so, it seems very responsive. Wish it had an oil pressure gauge so I could see what its running. Also, when you start it cold, the noise is there for about 2 seconds, then goes away. If I kill it and start it again, there is no noise. That makes me think it is bearing/motor related. Opinions and advise welcome.

I guess to me the tbi isnt "real" fuel injection, even though technically it is. I was just thinking that if I have to find a motor, and I can use a newer multi port, I would. Thanks for the info. Now I just have to find a motor.

Guys, I've only owned my first PF for 2 weeks, and I'm buying another. It's an '88 and I think the motor is bad. If I get a newer, say '94ish motor, can it be swapped without much drama? I looked for a thread on this, but didnt find it. Thanks