tmoore4512
-
Posts
1,880 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
8
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by tmoore4512
-
-
Oh yea...WELCOME BRO!
-
R50 is the model designation of the 1996 through 2004ish years Pathfinders...
-
I am on my MDT and cannot find it either!
Sometimes the search function on here is wacky. -
Yes, but I have seen see through head rests in XE's in the yards...
And believe it or not I snagged the whole inclimoter/altimeter dash pod from an XE...so there ya go...
-
No, thank you for the heads up that I would need the adapter!
Saved some time in a tight area trying to figure out why it would not thread in!
Haha -
I knew someone who has done the deed would chime in!
-
Man you got me...
I have the same hubs on my WD21.
And they don't look that bad, I broke the rules (as usual) and greased all the parts on install, and a few times after when I was servicing them...so they are in good shape...
But yea...I was referring to YOUR WD21 and NOT your spousal units!
Apologies!
LOL -
I love it when mech's act like they are the end of the line, and that nobody else can possibly know anything about the problem...
Obviously there are times when we all get stumped and need a second set of eyes to look at the situation and report back...but dang man, lose the arrogance!
And then to not admit when your wrong...come on.
Agreed. Gauges are important. -
I stand corrected.
-
Dang B...glad you did not actually ever NEED to use em...and then they fail.
I could so make a "mall crawler" joke but will refrain!
Good catch....gotta go take mine apart now!
Grrr
Finally got Tapatalk to work! Yeaaah!
-
No they are the barb fittings...they were simply not tight enough in the relo plate. I am pretty excited about the oil pressure gauge...and am (not entirely) hoping to prevent any issues by being able to monitor...
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
-
Its hit or miss for sure! In my junkyard scavenging I have come across several XE's that had more options that my SE ever had...
Sigh. -
Agree fully with the previous two posts.
I would suggest that you follow the two large lines that come out of the intake piping between the MAF and the throttle body. One goes to a hard line that routes around to the PCV on the passenger side valve cover the other goes back through a second hard line that goes into the motor to feed the PCV system.
While looking at your truck with the hood up standing in front of the motor, facing it...look at the hard lines. One comes straight towards you, the other goes to the driver side. Both have an intermediate rubber hose that connects them to the intake piping using Nissan's favorite clamps. Those jokers WILL CRACK.
The one that comes straight out towards you, parallel with the motor is the one you need to seriously check. Its strange because when disconnected the motor will not run at all. When connected with a minor leak it runs like you described. When connected properly it runs perfect.
Just my .02 -
Yep as long as you have no coils you should be able to eliminate that from the equation. Coils tend to create another "antenna."
Do you know what brand of coax you installed? There is definetly good and better and BEST out there...and it almost always has to do with shielding when it comes to low band stuff like CB's.
CDN_S4....
I disagree bra! 27Mhz is crazy! A properly tuned system can talk for hundreds of miles...I have done it! And that is standard "Chicken Band" and NOT SSB.... -
Success!
Installed the Autometer sending unit in place of the stock idiot light switch using a "Glowshift 1/8 NPT female to 1/8 BSPT male" adapter from Amazon...
Works fantastic. Now have a working oil pressure gauge in my triple pillar that accurately shows me pertinent information...
(Yea yea, I know....the argument about accuracy with mechanical vs electric gauges...) -
Not a bad deal!
I have read good reviews on these, but one day I will rip my IFS out and put that fresh D44 in! -
The VG33 is a capable motor, somewhere there is a thread on building it right for power...cams and pistons created quite a team...
The VQ needs a different trans or an expensive adapter... -
Oh yea, and for those of you who will be running electric sending units for your oil pressure...unless the relo kit has the bungs at an angle away from the block you probably won't be able to use it.
The Autometer unit I just installed (in place of the factory idiot light) is pretty big, and had I tried to run the $0.99 sandwich plate I would not have had enough space between the block and the plate to clear the sending unit. -
I have purchased parts from several locations with good results. Basically the same info as ahardbody.
Ebay has a bunch of quality parts. Most of the time the aluminum stuff that is generally sold to the "import tuner" market is great. I have utilized several of these parts including water temp sensor adapters, BOV adapters, intercooler piping, and a sandwich plate I won for for $0.99 shipped
Summit is excellent as well. Very fast shipping, and they have top notch customer service. I bought 5 wheels (based off of Precise1's recommendation) from them and it was like BAM they were at my door. Kinda like Amazon Prime.
Jegs is good as well...same as above.
On another note...Okay so I installed a Summit relocation kit yesterday...it was $49 and is pretty solid. A complete kit that only requires you to do the labor.
The only issue I have with it is the relocation plate that goes to the block. I utilized teflon tape, and installed the NPT connectors, tightened them to the point where I was like "man I am going to break this."
And they leaked. From around the threads, under pressure...they leaked!
I took the assembly back apart and totally went on faith, and tightened the crap out of the connectors...As of right now they are not leaking...but I have not run it down the road yet. Simply let it idle.Not to thread jack...just my experience.
-
Hawa has a good point. I would be curious to know how much movement occurs with the poly bushings...however you could always install the stiffer Energy bushings in place should you need them to be more "solid."
Doesn't change the fact that it is a wicked cool mod! -
I believe that they use the same chain. The TX10 is a TX10. The TX12 had larger internals but is a totally different gearbox.
I could be wrong (usually am) but I took the current TX10 from the 2002 Xterra apart (split the case) to make sure all was well, and to re seal it before install...and it did not appear to be any different than my 95's TX10.
The ONLY difference to report is the shift linkage for the gearbox. But it was a different arm rather than anything internal. Simple fix. -
Oil relo kit...
New parts...Summit Racing kit...
Ahhh yes, finally no more oil on my starter...
the new Autometer sender...easier to install while everything was out..
New filter location on passenger frame rail about 3 feet back...
And a nice shiny STP S8...a whole lot more filter...
Had to fight with the relocation plate for a while to get it to stop leaking, but now it seems to be good to go.-
3
-
-
Oil filter relocation kit installed, finally put my triple gauge pillar in along with the oil pressure, water and trans temp gauges...Looks halfway decent except for the dang gaps...but it is what it is!
-
2
-
-
Yea yea....Bernard and his never ending wisdom.
(I shoulda suggested that stuff!)
hahahaha
Rhino liner
in General Forums
Posted
I rhino'd my front bumper. Did fairly well, heck of a mess to clean up though. I should have just powder coated it like the rear but it is what it is.