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Phantom01Pathfinder

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Posts posted by Phantom01Pathfinder

  1. check your fuel filler tube. a while ago nissan had a recall about the fuel filler tube not having proper anti corrosive coating. the recall was issued due to salt eating away at the filler tube material. this is especially important to those located in the heavily salted states during the winter months.

     

    hope this helps. i got mine replaced for free and it only took about 30min.

     

    of course if its just during start up this might not be the case...unless when the system gets pressurized it emits the odor??

  2. i had the same trouble when got my pathy 4 yrs ago. I got 1 o2 sensor replaced and did the reflash. I did haggle my dealer tho because i was having other issues, so i got parts at cost and free labor to install.

     

    Make sure you really need 2 o2 sensors and not just one. get factory o2 sensors, not aftermarket. do the reflash and be on your way :).

  3. I'm going to be one of those guys asking questions in the middle of a topic! It seems all the SFD guys are all running 16" rims.....what caught my attention is the 3.75" BS. I have 15 x 8 rims with 3.75" BS. After a SFD, I really don't want to have to buy new rims as well as new tires.....so for me, to get 33"'s, would I be l able to run 33"x12.5"x15" with my current 15x8's rims w/ 3.75BS????

    If i have read correctly in other posts, Rick 13 is running 33's on 16" wheels on a SFD, but he talked about how he had to get a tire due to tire width and not what he liked. If you check earlier in this post he has 285/75/16 (measures 33x11.50x16). I think youd be able to fit a 33x11.5x15, but im pretty sure 33x12.5x15 wont fit.

  4. Yeah, this is why we shouldn't have :jacked: this topic and confused it with what to do with a SFD.

     

    My original post was only concerning what I ran with a 2" AC lift - 3.75" bs rims with 31" AT's (even though I think a 32" tire of a certain diameter/width would also work fine). That's pretty simple.

     

    The next question I responded to was concerning plans for a SFD. After the I installed the SFD I decided to run the same backspaced rims as before but with the larger 33" tires, BUT it took a TON of research and 1 test fitment to confirm it could be done. I also mentioned in that post that I'd be very concerned about going beyond 3.75" bs because of the turning arc (and rubbing) and tucking during rear flex.

     

    I was NOT suggesting running 33's with the 3.75" bs rim with only the 2" lift. I know you did it quite successfully Andrew, but I just have no experience with that so I don't even want to comment on it.

     

    Again, these are two separate topics combined in to one post (which might help someone who plans to transition from an 2" coil lift to the SFD), but otherwise I'm affraid it will only confuse those who have no plans to go SFD nor have they been researching this stuff for the past 24 months...I realized it a page of posts ago that I should have PM'd my responses, it would have been cleaner. My apologies.

    Rick, no need to apologize. Ive read many topics on here where others have chimmed in asking a completely different question then what was posted originally.

     

    Earlier in my post i should have thrown in this emoticon --> :offtopic: haha

     

    Thanks for all you input on wheels and tires. now i only have to seriously decide on tires. but i got time to do plenty of research before choosing.

  5. Nice. Those were a bit more expensive than mine (from 4 Wheel Parts also) but I think they look a lot better!

    Thanks. Those were the only series online i could get with 3.75bs...haha. I am sure i could have special ordered a different series type, but i like this series the best! :jig:

  6. well i ordered my new wheels a few days ago. Black steel ProComp Rock Crawler Series 87. Ordered from 4wheelparts.com...Was hoping to get them within 2 weeks but was told they are about 4-6 weeks out. I guess 3.75bs isnt popular so they still have to be made. Figured i'd wait and get the 3.75bs now instead of a 4bs or 4.25bs so in the future if i wanted to get bigger tires i can.

     

    procomp.jpg

  7. Oh yeah, after all that rambling...

     

    I actually ended up ordering the bolt-on coil perch adapter from Krypton Fab (Shift220). I have the ES9000 rear shocks (Manuf #929500). I ordered/received the WJ 4" lift coils. I still need the longer brake line and figure something out regarding the PHD bar bracket. I'll post up once I get it all installed. Plan on taking photos and making a new topic for it.

     

    Uh oh, my apologies... :jacked:

    :itsallgood:

    It gives me good ideas when others talk about their projects :aok:

  8. Yup, EXACT same issue. I called 4x4parts.com and they advised me that I do not need the bumpstop nor the dust cover. He said the dust cover does more damage then good by actually trapping dirt in instead of keeping it out. As for the bumpstop.... hopefully I don't need them. He said that because the springs are so strong, there is almost no chance at all of bottoming out the strut. I am going with 32" tires so that might be an issue with the tires tucking too much and rubbing on the inside of the wheel well.Although I will be disassembling the struts again soon to install NX4 strut spacers (I have a good amount of Texas Tow Truck rake), so I will probably go ahead and install them now that I know how the hell to actually do it. Thanks!!! :beer:

    Whats the status on the lift??? post pics!!

  9. :suicide: :suicide: :suicide: :suicide: looks like my suspension upgrade/lift is a long ways off. Thank though :)

    Thats how the numbers worked for me when i ran them. I am sure had I bought the lift package (check 4x4parts.com) I could have saved a couple hundred bucks.

     

    I believe there are different packages that range from $680 to $800ish...

  10. Do you mind letting us know about how much it all cost, parts and install? Ill be going the same route at some point cos I need new struts/shocks/springs..and you did what im prolly gonna end up doing..just wanna know how much its gonna hurt :suicide:

    ok ill start with the front and work to the back. Mind you i had my new struts put on 2 months ago, didnt think i was going to get the lift as soon as i did, otherwise i would have done it all at once. live and learn tho.

     

    Struts - $79.95 each

    Strut mounts, bearings, upper and lower seats - $220 (purchased from my local Nissan Dealer)

    2" AC lift - $360

    2 sets of camber alignment bolts - $60

    ProComp ES 3000 shocks - $37.95 each

    Miscellaneous bolts, nuts, sleeves - $20

     

    I installed the rear coils and shocks myself and took my pathy to my mechanic to install the fronts.

     

    Total Costs

     

    Parts - $895.80

    Installation - $400 (It would have been just $200 had i done it all the first time, lol)

     

    Grand Total - $1295.80 (So you should be looking at somewhere around $1100)

     

    Thats only the lift. I just bought wheels and ill be getting tires soon. so that will be at least another $900

  11. No problem. I think a lot of us have done things differently than eachother, but we all talk the same game, so you could probably get quite a few differing opinions on lifts, rims/spacers, tires... Finding what works for you and your situation based on all our opinions/experiences has been interesting and fun for me over the past few years. Good luck.

     

    But one more thing, if I could go back in time I would have gone with 3.25" backspace rims (like a Mickey Thompson II) instead of my 3.75" backspace Pro Comp steelies. That makes it quite a bit easier to go to 33"+ in the future...I had to select my 33" tire based on section/tread width and not just what tire I like best (mostly because I don't like spacers/adapters). Yet another opinion based on my personal experiences...

    Ok thanks for all your advice.

     

    I actually just bought my 3.75bs procomp steelies tho, lol. I dont know if ill upgrade to 33's in the future or not, but only time will tell...

     

    i did see some steelies that had 2.5bs, but thought that was too much. im not a fan of spacers either...

  12. I ran 265/70/16 BFG AT KO's (just under 31") with the 2" AC lift. No need for spacers because that diameter tire sits below (1/4-1/2") the lower strut coil spring seat. I didn't have the cash for spacers/rims, so that's why I settled for the 31" tires.

     

    Doing it again, I would have just dropped the cash for the rims (about $85/each) and gone 32" - I would have had a lot more fun over the last 3 years on the trails I ran! Of course, there is some trimming needed with going with spacers/rims and/or 31"+ tires - not too bad though.

    Rick thanks for the pointers. i know now what i have to do.

  13. Thanks for posting that up. I know that others have had to do some "persuading" with their longer shock setups, so that helps.

     

    No problem.

     

    When you had your 2" lift, what size tires did you run? And i am assuming that you used wheel spacers to fit those tires on factory wheels to clear the struts?

  14. Ok so this is how i got the shocks to work. I didnt have my camera with me when i did the shock install so these are after pics.

     

    This sleeve is similar to the one i used in the top of the shock eyelet because it was too large (i think the sleeve had a 5/8"inside diameter). So this sleeve was pressed into the bushing and bolted back into place. I also bought new bolts and lock nuts for the upper mounts.

     

    ACLiftKit0012.jpg

     

    ACLiftKit0062.jpg

     

    As for the bottom, to stop it from being jarred around and rattling, my original plan was to use the same set up as the top but i ran into a problem. The sleeve was a hair to small, and i didnt want to pound the crap out of it to get it on the stud so my buddy came up with a brilliant idea. He had a spare piece of plastic tubing that fit perfectly over the bottom stud. So that was put on the stud, then the shock got pushed on. It was a very snug fit and took some persuading but it worked. No more rattling shocks!

     

    You cant see it, but there is plastic tubing smashed in there :)

    ACLiftKit0052.jpg

  15. That looks really nice! Mine has 120,000 on it as well and I think I'm going to do the same as you did. What "hardware " did you get and do you have a P/N and place where you got your rear shocks? Thanks for the replies! I'd try yours with the sway bar removed and report back to me how you like it. ;-)

     

    I called my local nissan dealer for my strut mounts (upper and lower), bearings, seats, and etc. It was cheaper for me to order that locally then to pay shipping from ordering online.

     

    Here is a link for part numbers http://www.nissanpartszone.com/components/2001-nissan-pathfinder_front-suspension-401-1287.html

     

    I ordered the following parts - 54329N, 54320, 54322, 54325, 54036, 54057, 54034.

     

    I ordered the rear shocks from summitracing.com P/N - 326506 (this number is ProComps factory part number) I sorta guessed on the proper length and thought 27in extended would work and it has so far, haha.

     

    And the remainder of my lift was from 4x4parts. KYB struts(for my model year 2001) and the lift coils

     

    hope this helps

  16. I still have mine on... I suppose it may have been helpful to have it off sometimes.. but I really haven't had issue with keeping it on.

     

    Congrats on the lift!

    Thanks Pezzy

     

    I had a question about your wheel and tire combo. What are the specs on your wheels? I know they are 16's but 16x7 or 16x8? Whats the backspacing and is it hubcentric? Is it important to have a hubcentric wheel? I found info searching here, but it sounds like either way works? Did your 275/70/16 Bridgestones rub at all??? thanks in advance

  17. Gotcha, thanks! Been trying to search phantoms posts to find out what lift and components he ordered but of his 59 or so posts, I can only see about 19 of them. His lift sure raised that truck up.

     

    hey snow4me, i ordered my lift from 4x4parts.com. decided to go with the AC lift instead of OME. a few months ago i got new kyb gr2 struts and OEM bearings, mounts and hardware. i should have done it all at once, replaced struts, coils and shocks, but i piece-mealed it together. it took time but was worth the wait! now in the future im planning on wheels and tires, and way down the road maybe a new front bumper? :D oh and i got ProComp ES 3000 shocks, took some slight modifying to fit, but they are working good so far!

     

    yah my old suspension had 125k on it, so it was totally shot! lol

  18. kept the sway bar on...ill have to see how "hardcore" my wheeling will get, lol.

     

    My old taillights always had water/condensation in them...even after i took them off, dried them out, resealed them and put them back on. So i opted to take the more price effective route and get black euro's off ebay. Got them more then a year ago and i love them!

  19. Well after a long wait, my lift is finally complete.

     

    First pic is the day i got my Pathfinder, then the others are of the lift. I didnt get any pics of the front install because i opted for my mechanic to do it. All in all it turned out awesome!!!

     

    Pathfinder01008.jpg

     

    ACLiftKit016.jpg

     

    ACLiftKit022.jpg

     

    ACLiftKit029.jpg

     

    ACLiftKit026.jpg

     

    Thanks to 01silvapathy for answering all my countless questions! :clap:

  20. I personally got KYB's put on about 2k miles ago. I love them. Its like riding on a cloud. But now its going to be a little different cuz im getting the rest of my lift put on tomorrow. I even did light offroading with all my stock suspension and never had a problem with them.

     

    Do get OEM strut bearings, mounts, and hardware.

     

    Thats how i did it. For me, parts were $350, and labor was $200. So id think your looking somewhere in the vacinity or $550 - $600.

     

    hope that helps

  21. Welcome to the forum!!! this place has a wealth of knowledgeable people and im sure others will chime in, but ill help you with what i know.

     

     

    i know that sometimes when you throw a code and replace a part it takes a certain number of cycles of the key in the ignition to reset the pcm or ecu(i dont know the technical name for it).

     

    i had a similar problem with mine 3 yrs ago and i replaced an o2 sensor, then a couple hundred miles later it threw a code for a mass air flow sensor. so sometimes one issue leads to another...

     

    What gaskets got replaced?

     

    yes you should be able to tell if the cat is still good just by looking at it.

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