HankG

Is the other side really bad or something? From that picture, I don't think that little dent would even matter at all unless you're worried about the appearance or something. Personally, I like the way it looks post accident; gives it a little meaner look. However, I wonder if you couldn't straighten that out yourself pretty well if you pulled it off and gave it a few whacks with a sledge hammer.

I took mine off because I didn't like the way they looked. They were filled with mud from years of not being properly taken care of by previous owners to the point that I could see many differently colored layers from the various places it had been off-road. I also found out this built up mud had caused rust holes and had to cut and paint the area. Unfortunately, the rust had gotten in between the seams of the unibody to a point where I couldn't get rid of it. Sprayed it with some anti rust stuff and am just hoping it will last until I get sick of the vehicle. So, whether or not you keep the flares on long term, I would recommend pulling them off and taking a good look around to make sure they aren't covering rust that needs to be taken care of.

I hope you get this figured out; I think mine is heading in the same direction. I can still open it, but most of the time I have to unlock, relock, then unlock it again to get it to open.

When I got my Pathfinder, it only came with one key and it was too worn to copy normally. I was able to get my key code from the dealership and took it to a locksmith and he was able to make some keys. However, I think the dealer said they only started keeping track in '96, so I don't think you'll be able to do that. No idea if it's possible to get a key made from the cylinder.

Ah, I had forgotten about the strut length restricting flex. With that in mind, I'll definitely keep my front in since I do sometimes drive faster than I strictly should.

How is it driving the r50 with no front sway bar? I haven't had a rear one for a long time, but left the front one in since I had always thought it was really necessary for safety as a DD. Do you notice much extra flex with it gone (or broken as the case may be)?

Out of curiosity, how much work does someone have to do to a vehicle before they are allowed to be proud of it by your standards? Is a lift and a few other mods enough, or is anyone who doesn't do a one-ton axle swap just a noob that doesn't really care about their vehicle? Although, speaking of caring about one's vehicle, an argument could be made that someone who never wanted to get rid of his truck and replaced it with a similar model after it was wrecked has a much greater right to be proud of and care about his vehicle than someone who spent a lot of time talking about how much his Pathfinder sucked and how he was going to trade it for a Toyota and even made a for sale post, regardless of how much work was done to the respective vehicles.

I have my fingers crossed for an update after this post: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19242

For the size, it actually fits really well; it's just held in a different manner than the usual tall and skinny knob. I actually haven't given it a real test yet. However, I messed around with shifting a bunch in the driveway and it felt fine. Taking off the edges with the angle grinder made it pretty comfortable.

For a while now, I've been wanting a custom shift knob. In my last truck, I bought a cliché chrome skull and, while I liked it, I wanted something a little more unique this time. I couldn't find anything in stores or online that I liked, unfortunately. A short while ago, I was over at my brother's house while he was dismantling the transmission out of my old truck and noticed that fourth gear seemed perfect. I had him cut it out and, a few days later, got to work. First, I ground off the slag from the acetylene torch, then cut out a two inch circle of 1/8 steel, welded two nuts to the back, then welded the circle to the gear. After that, I polished it up with an angle grinder, took off the pointy edges, and put on a bunch of clear coat. It didn't come out perfectly, but I'm quite happy with it. http://pages.suddenlink.net/hank-g/shiftknob1.jpg http://pages.suddenlink.net/hank-g/shiftknob2.jpg

I was thinking about removing my resonator box, is there any reason not to? Does it drain enough moisture that it would be better to keep it? It seems a little unnerving to have a hole low in your intake, even if it is a small one.

I have a couple good reasons to trim my fenders regardless of fitting larger tires, so that isn't a problem. For one, the passenger fender is damaged from a PO's accident and the trimming would actually remove a fair bit of the damage. The other is that removing the flares left a somewhat ugly line in the paint and trimming would get rid of those as well. Thanks for the help everyone.

Thanks for the info. Looks like it pretty definitely isn't lifted then. I can't say I mind; if this is stock then I can't wait to see what it's like lifted. Although, this makes me wonder why it seems to be so uncommon to run 33s after the lift. It looks like I could just about run them right now if I trimmed the front fenders and got rims with the right backspacing to clear the struts. I am very new to all of this stuff, is there something I'm missing that makes it hard?

Would anyone be willing to grab some measurements to clear this up? Either stock or lifted would work for comparing. From the middle of the hub to the flare should give a pretty accurate idea even accounting for sagging and such.

Those are just cheap shocks I put on a while ago. I was planning on replacing everything when I lifted it, but it looks like that isn't necessary now. I think I like my Pathfinder more every day. Thanks everyone for the help.

The tires are 31x10.5. http://pages.suddenlink.net/hank-g/100_7150.JPG http://pages.suddenlink.net/hank-g/100_7151.JPG http://pages.suddenlink.net/hank-g/100_7152.JPG http://pages.suddenlink.net/hank-g/100_7153.JPG http://pages.suddenlink.net/hank-g/100_7147a.jpg

Damn, that is a nice looking Pathfinder.

http://pages.suddenlink.net/hank-g/100_7143a.jpg http://pages.suddenlink.net/hank-g/100_7144a.jpg http://pages.suddenlink.net/hank-g/100_7148a.JPG Any other angles that might help?

My brother and I are trying to decide if my Pathfinder has a lift on it already (I have zero history for the vehicle past the previous owner who only had it for 2k miles). It looks like it quite possibly might be lifted already, but there are no definite signs of it. If anyone could tell me the stock ride height of a 96 SE, measured from the middle of the hub to the fender, I would really appreciate it. Thanks, Hank

You were right about having to do a drive pattern before getting it tested; I failed the first time because of that. This should be what ya need. http://pages.suddenlink.net/hank-g/drivepattern.jpg

There's nothing un-American about rationing.

This is like doing a news story on a porn star having fake boobs. No one thought they were real in the first place. My, what pretty CGI you have, Antartica.

My brother has a Cherokee and is quite jealous of my R50. I don't know what you're looking for in a vehicle, but if you are thinking of leaving it stock since you're modding your WD21, the Pathfinder is better in just about every way.

My '96 needed two fours and two threes. I think that is the same guy I got mine from, so I should warn ya that the first "three wire" ones he sent were four wire sensors with one of the wires cut off. I e-mailed him and he sent me the right ones with no extra charge and didn't ask for the others back, so it could have just been a one time thing.

I got my universals off ebay. Not sure what is there currently but you should be able to find them for around that price still.