BobLoblaw
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Posts posted by BobLoblaw
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Check for a clogged catalytic converter or a dead coolant temperature sensor. Those won't set codes.
Yeah, I'm still having the problem. I filled up yesterday with 210KM on the odometer ($62- cha-ching!). This is the worst fuel economy I have seen. My 1981 280zx gets double that (a straight 6 engine), no problem, and I drive it way harder than my Pathy. I just don't get it.
What should I replace first? O2 sensor? Spark plugs (they look alright tho)? I'm not too good with those computer codes, although I don't see any blinking lights on the ECM. I should be getting (my estimate) about 300-350KM per tank. Wheels are stock, as is the engine.
I really need guidance on this one. It's costing me a fortune!
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Hey guys,
this is my first winter with my Pathy (94 XE Standard Trans) and I have noticed that I'm getting some, in my mind, pretty bad gas mileage. I'm getting roughly 200-250KM's per tank - and that's pushing it. What could be causing this poor fuel economy. It's been running great, no hard starts or anything. I've read a few places that it could be the o2 sensor. Where is the o2 sensor and which type should I use to replace?
Maybe all pathy's are just bad on fuel and I don't know, but I don't think they can be this bad.
Thanks
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Well, I got some lock lube and it work great. the only thing is that I still can't lock the door from the outside! Open the door is butter-smooth which is great but shouldn't I be able to lock it from the outside using the key?
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Is there a certain type of lube for locks or should I just use Moovit (or some other generic lube)? Should I spray the lube into the lock or remove the door panel and spray the back, or both?
I adjusted the striker bolt and the door doesn't pop anymore. It still doesn't close as nicely as the passenger door, but my guess is that it's because of door sagging. Thanks for you help tho!
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My '94 Pathy XE's driver's door has a few problems.
First, the lock is pretty hard to turn open when the key is inside. I actually have broken 2 keys off in it!!! Is there anyway to fix/lube the lock?
Second, the door is difficult to shut. You gotta slam the door to get it to close properly. When you open the door from the outside, it kinda 'pops' open, not like the rest of the doors. It feels like it could be under tension almost. It's a real pop when it opens. There is a little sag in the door, (but nothing like my old Thunderbird lol). Can this be fixed? Can I adjust the striker bolt to fix this?
Lastly, Have you guys noticed the amount of cold air that comes through the vent in the door. Is it supposed to let air in like that? My left hip get damn cold in the morning! Is this fixable?
Thanks
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Is the paint-on stuff (for rear-defrost repair) the only thing that works?
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So my rear defroster is pretty useless. Only the very top bar works while the rest of the window stays foggy. I checked the lines (visually) and I didn't see and breaks or gaps in them. That is why I haven't bought one of those paint-on kits (do they even work). The fact that one bar works means the signal is getting to the window, so what's the deal?
What could be wrong? Is this a normal Pathy problem? How can I fix this?
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Could someone post a pic of this part? I want to know what I need to grab when I head out to the wreck yard.
BTW, I noticed my left taillight was out too. Does this have to do with this DRL module?
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Could I find this DRL module at a wreck yard? Would I still need to do soldering if I could find it?
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This is kinda weird. My right headlight/daytime running light doesn't work consistently. Sometimes is comes on like it should, sometimes it doesn't, sometimes it will come on after a few minutes. The left side works fine. I have replaced the headlight bulbs and it still happens. The regular beams and high beams on both sides work fine.
Why is this happening and how can I fix it?
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I recently pulled a faded green hatch off a pathy from a local wreck yard. I want to spend as little money as possible to paint it black. There is no rust on it.
Do you think I could just paint over the green without priming? I'll clean the hatch, obviously, but I just don't want to start buying spray guns and stuff. I want to do it with a spray can! I know that sounds bush league (and it is), but I just want to get this new hatch on! Also, is there a place that sells the 'Nissan Pathfinder XE' decals that you see on the rear hatch?
Any recommendations for the cheapest paint job possible for my rear hatch? Thanks
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It's only 2 pieces. You have 1 piece that runs the length of the window and the rubber one that goes all around. Over time, weathering takes a toll on the seals and so the corders dry up and crack giving you those "L" pieces on the corners.
To remove:
roll down your window
remove door panel
remove mirror
remove glass
remove rubber window seal--runs the whole track of the window
and gently pry up the metal seal. This is seal pawled onto the door shell. You'd have to be extra extra careful when removing this if you plan on reusing it since it bends so easily. You'll see what I mean when you get to this step.
Yeah, I actually noticed that it is actually plastic, not metal, like I previously thought. Do you (or does anyone) have these 2 pieces intact? Were you able to get it out/put it in without too much trouble or was it a pain?
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I want to know how to properly remove the (exterior) door weather stripping that surrounds the window on the outside. These are a series of metal pieces, not rubber. There 5 pieces in all I believe (per front door), 3 pieces that run the length of the window, and 2 corner 'L' pieces. They act as the first barrier between the rubber weather stripping and the outside.
How do I remove this without damaging it?
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Thanks, that's a great site!
It says: "Stabilizer Bracket Sold Separately". What is this and do I need to buy it if my Pathy is stock?
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Weird....I've done shocks a couple of times, and always had to remove the axle side mount of the panhard rod to do it.
Oh well...live and learn! Good job guys.
So now for my last question:
Where is the best place online or otherwise to buy Pro-comp shocks? What about in Canada?
Also, is there a specific ES3000 part number(s) that fit Pathy's? Mine's a 94 XE.
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Installed the ES3000's last night. Now I'll say that I had put new shocks on my Pathy less than 10,000 miles ago, but they were the cheap (Brand x) yellow ones from the local parts store. I wasn't happy with the front end especially, so that's what led to the new pro comp's.
Wow !!! The shock shaft is noticeably thicker than the Brand X. I installed the stiffer urethane bushing in the lower eye of the shock (supplied with shock) . The front end sits up higher ( feels like 1/2-3/4's of an inch), the front end is much more suple over speed bumps and potholes. The only issue is now the old rear ones feel like crap...
Money well spent !
How long did it take for you to install them? Was it easy? What tools did you need?
Actually, I was wondering if someone could write a "how-to replace your shocks" (step-by-step). I need to do it but I don't want to get into the job and then realize it's too much for me.
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dang, those pro-comps are way cheaper than the rancho rs5000's (price wise, that is) and they come w/ the steering stabilizer too.
i would get them if they weren't blue and my truck wasn't red. hahaha.
What number are the pro-comp you speak of? ES1000? Which height should I get? 0-1.5' or 0-2.5'? What does that even mean? What advantages do I get by moving up in price; in laymens terms (40 bucks more for es3000)? Once again, I rarely offroad, but I don't want to kill the shocks if I do.
Do I also need to buy the steering stabilizers? My pathy is all stock?
One more thing. In the pro-comp .pdf, it talks about Nissan 'hardbody'. What is that?
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Do you remember what size the nuts and bolts were? Might as well replace the hardware when I do it.
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My Rancho RS5000
Well I finally put them on last night. They were a breeze to put on and what really stunned me was that my pathy had 166K and it still had the OEM shock on it. lol.
Anyways, its rides great and I have yet to off road it w/ them, but I can say is that I feel no more rocking side to side or back and forth. Stiff, but truck like suspension, just like I wanted!
My rig is OEM w/ no suspension lift, so I cannot comment on it, but these ranchos have a long drive to put ona 3" lift w/ no problems for sure.
Sorry but the possible hijack here but:
I've never done a shock replacement before. Would it be easy for me to do? What tools do I need?
Also, I'm rarely offroad but I want my truck to be capable. What shocks are for me? $200 or less.
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I did the washer fix and it worked BUT....Now the rear interior light doesn't turn on at all when the hatch is open. It turns on if you switch it on but not when the hatch is open. Is this supposed to happen when you do the washer fix?
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Great topic.
My 94 XE Standard has no cup holders at all. What are my options (other than the roll of duct tape LOL!!!
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I've never heard of an issue with the glass, and I don't think it turns on the lights anyways, or at least I can't remember it doing so. As for the washers, whatever fits around the bolts should work.
I didn't actually open the whole hatch tho, just the glass when it started happening again. Have you done the washer fix before? Do I just need one washer per bolt?
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After a couple weeks of joyous driving with no door sensor problems, opened my glass on the rear hatch to put some stuff in the truck. I shut it kinda hard (hands were full!) and BOOM! Door sensor problems once again!
I've read the topics about fixing the full rear hatch gate sensor by adding washers to the latch on the body (what size of washers did you guys use BTW?) but this is the glass sensor? Is this fixable? What should I do?
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^ What he said. BTW, I haven't tried to fix it yet. I don;t know anything about ECU error codes.
Could it be a dirty terminal under the hood? Where does it connect?
Bad Fuel economy?
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
Where is the coolant temp sensor and how much is it to replace? Do you guys have part numbers for NGK wires and plugs (those are the best for Nissan's right - they are on my 280zx). What about a part number for the o2 sensor? Is it in a easy or hard location to change?