BobLoblaw
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Posts posted by BobLoblaw
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Hey guys, I have switched the bulbs and the same thing happens. I seem to be getting less and less consistent operation of both bulbs simultaneously. In other words, just one bulb is working most of the time [Left bulb -daytime lights, right bulb-low beam, right bulb - high beam with buzzing noise coming from the dash sometimes no light come on at all.) Could someone link me to the relay conversion instructions please. I'm fed up with this ****. I've never had a car/truck, no matter how old and beaten, that's headlights didn't work properly.
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Hey guys,
Like many people that own Pathys, only one side of my daytime running lights works. It's annoying, but not a huge deal. The low beams work fine too. It wasn't until recently though, that I discovered that my high-beams only work on one side and when witched on, a 'buzzing' sound comes from behind my stereo/ashtray area. What could be happening here? I'm mostly driving in the city, but when I'm on a dark highway, it's a little disconcerting.
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I would guess your switch contacts also, it might be just the uneven draw of the single light making some electrical hum.
And the uneven draw is caused by the light switch, or the DLM?
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That gets my vote.
So what do I do with the DLM once I find it? This problem is really lame. My left headlight when I have my highbeams on just flickers!
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Not sure about the stereo problem, but the headlight problem will be contacts in the stalk switch, you can pull it apart, clean the contacts and bend them slightly to ensure you get a good connection, I have done this a couple of times with mine and it works everytime. I am sure there will be something in the how-to about this.
Maybe I worded it wrong. The noise when I turn my high beams on seems to be coming from BEHIND my stereo - I don't think the stereo has anything to do with it. Actually I just went outside and check it again. This time the humming/wurring noise stayed on and the light never fully came on - just dimly at times. The noise gets quieter when the light starts getting brighter, then gets louder when it gets dim and eventually goes out. Its like the light isn't getting enough power.
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I, like many Pathy owners have a 'winking' Pathy. My passenger side (right) daytime light doesn't work. Yes, I have replaced the blub. I assume from my research that is probably the DLM but I haven't check it yet. It's not really as important as my next problems....
Recently, when I switch my low-beams on, the drivers side (left) sometimes will not come on right away or won't come on until I switch the lights on and off. It's really annoying.
The latest thing I noticed (my stereo was 'on', but muted), is when I have my low-beams on and I switch to high beams, the driver's side light will not come on initially. For about 3-5 seconds, I can hear a wurring sound from behind my stereo deck, then the light fades on (and the wurring stops). I though this was weird but I hoped that someone hear could tell me how to fix this and what was making the wurring sound.
Thanks
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Hey guys,
I've had a problem lately unlocking my passenger door, from the inside and outside. From the inside, not matter how hard you pull, the lock knob will only come up and inch - leaving the door locked still. It eventually will open, if I work the door back and forth while trying to unlock it but it is a pain! What can I do to fix this? I have a 94 XE, manual windows, locks etc.
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It's ok....NO ONE was born with knowledge
Acc belts are alt, power steering and air con
P/S adjuster is a bit of a PITA. You need to undo the locking bolt just in behind the pulley on the under side. Then you can tighten the adjuster bolt through the inner guard (about the easiest way to get at it). I couldn't get on to the adjuster bolt so I just pulled the pump over till it was tight enough then tightened up the lock bolt
Alt adjuster: Piece of cake...... under the alternator
Air con: adjusted on the idler bearing, undo the nut in the centre of the idler bearing and then tighten the bolt running down the back of it. MAKE SURE YOU TIGHTEN THE NUT UP WHEN YOUR DONE.......and don't ask
Reason for edit....There is no cake under the alternator
As a quick update, I tightened the adjuster bolt under the alternator and it fixed the squeal! Awesome, thank guys.
I noticed there was another bolt (12mm) on the adjuster part. Is that for large adjustments when actually changing belts?
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Well, I just filled up with the fuel gauge on the top of the thick white bar (on E). It took 56L. I could probably drive it for another week on E if it's a 80L tank!!
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Well, thanks for all your help guys. Like my sig says, I have a 94 XE 4x4. Not sure if that makes any difference. My guess is 80L, like many of your have said.
I have been at the bottom of the thick white line as well, with no fuel light. I've never let it go below that but on my next fill, I'm going to take note of the litres. The fuel light is a damn good idea though. I hope mine works!
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Just curious, what is the size of my Pathy's fuel tank? I tried searching an I couldn't find it.
Also, I have been on empty (on the fuel gauge at least) a few times now but have still not seen a fuel light. Does a 94 Pathy have one?
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A quick update on this situation:
I filled in rad back up originally (when I first noticed the problem of coolant loss) and the following day it was lower. So I filled it up again. Since then (last Wednesday) it has not lost any coolant at all, and I've driven it alot, checking the coolant before every start! Where did it go the first time? As I mentioned earlier, it has been very cold here. Could this contribute to the coolant loss?
Needless to say, I'm happy with this outcome, but I'm worried that it will happen again (finger crossed that it won't though)
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It could be your waterpump telling you that it wants to die. They have a weep hole that will leak when they need to be replaced. I had a "mysterious loss" of coolent and could not find the leak until one day I turned the engine on and just closely examined everything until I saw the little drip from the bottom of the water pump.
BTW, if it is the pump, might as well do a Timing belt job since it has to be removed to remove the pump.
Okay, here's my next noob question. Where is the water pump? Can it be seen when looking under the hood? Do you have any pics?
As for the compression test, I'm taking it into a shop either tomorrow or Friday. I don't know how to do that test. And what are "Blowen frost blugs" Nismo?
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no biggy
thanks for the link. That gives me hope. I don't want my pathy to die! I'm still going to have to get a shop to look at it for me because it is so damn cold here right now. I looked at the part of the hose I could see and didn't see a split ( I could only see 2 inches of the hose tho). I'll post with an update by the end of the week.
On a side note, would having a low coolant rad cause any type of squeals or squeaks at startup or when driving at high RPMs?
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This could be bad. The coolant is goining somewhere and you need to find out where.
It could be leaking in a non-obvious spot (hopefully).
It could be leaking into the oil (cracked block) leaking into the combustion chamber (blown head gasket) or into the automatic transmission fluid (cracked lines inside radiator).
EDIT
How much down was it the second time, maybe the system just burped some trapped air?
It was down low enough to see the metal. I'm worried. Even though it's idle has been fine (when my 280zx head gasket blew, the idle was screwed) I always fear the worst case scenario. Of the 3 bad ones you posted, what are the costs to repair each (in Cdn, if you know)? This is total BS!!!
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I noticed yesterday (because my truck was running like crap, after a few weeks of -20C temps) that my radiator was way short on coolant. The temp gauge was going screwy - my first clue.
Anyway, last night I filled the rad up. Today, everything was fine - full rad, normal temp gauge, normal heat. I drove the ar once today for about 15-20mins. Got home and shut it off. About 4 hours later, I went out and started it again, only to hear a strange idle, that eventually steadied out. I shut it down immediately and checked the rad. Sure enough, it was very low again.
What is wrong with my pathy? I don't see any puddles below the truck. Could it be leaking the whole time I'm driving? Could it be something worse than a busted hose?
Thanks
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I need and English to American translator j/k
Ok, try taking off in 2nd gear and see if it squeaks
Either tighten or replace your acc belts, end of story.
They aren't that dear, so just replace them all
I think the problem is on my end, I'm not naturally inclined to auto repair, but I'm trying to learn!This might sound dumb, but which belt is the accessory belt!??! Is the belt tightening screw easy to locate. I've changed belt on my 280zx before and the adjuster screw was in a fairly easy spot, but I've never even looked on this pathy.
It's -20C right now!! Damn, I hate these problems.
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Thinking about it, the engine doesn't have to work as hard in those gears. So it can rev out fast (and the pulley can't keep up), but in the high gears it takes a lot more power out of the engine. Sound logical?
Ummmm.....lol....I'm not sure what you're trying to say. The engine works harder in 1st and 2nd, right, to get the truck going? Because it's working harder, something is squealing at high revs in 1st and 2nd gear. Is that what you mean? If so, would this be because the belt is loose or the pulley is squealing? It's actually kind tough to fit a can of PB Blaster into the engine compartment low enough to give the pulley and accurate spray. Know any tricks?
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Hey guys, I just wanted to add some info on this:
I noticed that my engine temp indicator, which has always worked, has now started to rise, then fall when I'm idling, only to rise again when driving. What's causing this new, and annoying behavior?
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That's for all the suggestions guys. My A/C isn;t connected at all so that eliminates one. I sprayed each pulley (as best I could) with non-flammable penetrating lubricant and the squeal stopped fat startup. The truck actually didn't start right after I did it (not sure why), then it coughed to life - maybe the belts were too slick? The problem is that the sqeal comes back at high RPM before I shift out of 1st and 2nd. Why just these gears?
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Alt belt? When it's squealing try holding a wax candle (unlite) on it, just to lube it a little, and see if that shuts it up
The squeal happens for about 2 sec right when you start the car, then goes away. I just noticed this new noise while driving yesterday but it doesn't seem to squeal when idling, just when driving down the street. I hope it's the belt, because that is relatively cheap! Do any other parts cause a squeal?
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It never squeals on the first start of the day - it seems to happen on the 2nd or third start-up (when warm). This has been happening for about a month now. Recently, I have noticed a noise (squeal/whine) from the engine compartment while driving that seems to build with the RPMs and drop when I shift; buiding again as RPMs increase.
My pathy is just killing me right now - running rich, IACV problems, squealing etc. What a headache! /rant
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IF the IACV is bad it probably wont run any different than right now if you unplug it. There is a gasket on it and none of the parts stores could get it when I changed mine. I just made one. Buy yourself some of that gasket material that every auto parts store has and carefully trace and cut using the old one as a template.
Have you tested the IACV? You can pull the plug that is by the oil filler cap and test the continuity of the solenoid in the valve. IIRC it should read 10 ohms. That will tell you if it is good electrically, but not mechanically. It is the only plug in that cluster there that has two wires. I belive they are orange and black. There is the possibility that there is a chunk of crap in there too, so pull it apart and inspect it. From your symptoms it sounds like it is sort of working but maybe just sticking or in need of lubrication.
hope this helps
indigent.
I'll get on it soon. What's strange, is that the idle stays high between shifts, or if I rev it when stopped even when the engine is warm!! How do I check the wire going to the IACV (Ohms-wise)?
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Recently my Pathy has been idling erratically. It seems to be idling high when I change gears - like it's revving too high. It seems to be coming down slow (RPMs) when the gas is pressed at a red light with the clutch down then released. I believe that I have been having some IACV problems, especially when really cold. Could this part be the problem? When replacing this part do I need a gasket? Will the car run properly if I unplug the IACV?
Thanks
Taillights stopped working!
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
Hey guys,
I have always had problems with my headlights. For the past year or so, only one of my daytime lights works, and when my high beams are on, only one light is an and there is a buzzing sound coming from the dash board.
About a week ago this all changed! My daytime lights stopped working altogether (which is not a big deal - I'd rather have none, than one), low beams are fine, high beams began working again (with no buzzing noise coming from the dash). Mysteriously though, I lost my dash board display lights completely and my taillights. Kind of a weird trade-off eh?
If my truck is running for a bit (20+ minutes), the dash lights will sometimes come back on. The taillights won't and that is my main concern. I can't legally drive at night without em! My guess is that the problem lies in my headlight switch but I could be wrong.
Questions: Do you think it is my headlight switch (If not, then what is it)? Does anyone have a spare headlight switch (are they expensive to buy brand new?)? Is there anything I can do to repair my current headlight switch?
Thank for your help