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Hey guys, are R50 door checks interchangeable with any other Nissan? My right front door just closes on my legs on a slight hill. My girlfriend has a 2015 Versa and the door checks look pretty much identical

Hey all I'm looking to replace the adjuster on my right drum brake. The teeth are destroyed so it's not adjusting properly and it's very tough to turn. I could sand down but since the teeth are already broken I should just replace it. I'm having trouble finding one for any affordable price. I don't have any junkyards near me that have the whole drum for sale either. https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-drum-brake-adjuster-4420137g1a This is the part I believe. Left and right are different as well.

I changed the EVAP Canister and haven't had the light come back on since! It's been a ski trip and 1000 miles. I did not end up changing anything else. I checked for leaks and the solenoids/valves were functioning correctly. I will update this thread if the light ever comes back

I've checked them with a smoke test and no leaks from them. But I'll try again this week

Hey everyone I'm having an issue with a very small leak with my EVAP system. It can be a multitude of issues as shown by the FSM. I made a video because I feel like it can be the bypass valve but would like more clarification whether this part is functioning correctly or not. https://youtu.be/Hi5M2RkkDmk

Update! It was the ENG CONT fuse. My OBD scanner wasn't working when I connected it and set the car to ignition. I found that odd and saw that there was the correct battery voltage going into the OBD port. So somewhere the ecu was not talking to the car and I decided to check fuses for continuity. Now it starts up no problem!

I will try the relearn procedure again but it was really frustrating trying to figure it out to see if it was even working. The gas pedal still feels with no resistance. The big red button I don't know if it was just coincedence but I can't imagine it was anything other than a killswitch. My OBDII port no longer powers my scanner for more than a couple seconds. So I can no longer check for codes. Even after charging my battery up again with a trickle charger and confirming a 12.5V from the battery. I don't believe I can hear the pump but I will check again tomorrow. I've tried to start the car while manually holding the throttle body open while someone else would crank the engine. I sprayed a little bit of starter fluid into the throttle body and it started for a split second then died. I need to go through each terminal that can possibly be linked to the fuel pump and confirm that this isn't the fuel pump. I'm going to try the relearn process 20 times and see if this works

Okay so I believe the previous owner had a kill switch to the gas pump relay because I'm not getting any voltage to the pump. However I found this red button switch that was placed next to instrument cluster dimmer but can't find it linked to anything.

So like an idiot I didn't remove the battery while cleaning the throttle body and now my gas pedal goes all the way down and doesn't control the throttle body. I used the correct cleaner and lifted the butterfly valve. The engine turns over but doesn't start at all. I've tried doing the 10 seconds on, 2 seconds off throttle body relearn but that isn't doing anything. Did I break the sensor?

Thank I'll do this then! Do I then need to take the struts to a shop for the springs or is that only necessary with AC coils since their so stiff? I've done suspension work before with regular spring compressors

Hey everyone! I just recently got a 2003 LE and have been slowly fixing up all the current problems and doing all major maintenance (diff fluids, oil, oil filter, fuel filter, air filter, transmission fluid, transfer case fluid etc). I've also been looking at all the possible lift variations that everyone is running and I believe that for my use case I will be satisfied with the stock ride height. I can't justify the lift price for the minimal ammount of offroading I will be doing. Mainly winter driving and camping. However my rear springs have failed and my front struts are original with 93,000 mi. So I still need to replace the stock suspension with something. Will anything from rock auto suffice? Is there a stock option everyone recommends like the KYB front struts? I'm looking for comfort and no topout.

Okay so I just filled up the tank today and the gauge went to full! Success! But wait... uh oh... My speedometer isn't moving anymore! I wonder if I was too rough with the needle. I really don't think so. I'll try again tomorrow and see if I can get my speedometer to move again. Also my shifter light is off and I've tried looking at other posts but i don't see the bulb where others have posted. I don't see it at all near the P or beside the R.

I fixed it after your post, just a day or two ago. It was super useful, although I haven't calibrated the fuel gauge yet. I figured I would fill up the tank to full and calibrate it that way. But when I removed the fuel level sensor i noticed the gas was very low and when I put the cluster back together it had the "low fuel" symbol lit up for the first time. This makes me think that the issue has been fixed, but i will confirm later on. I saw the smoked bulbs but just decided to replace them regardless because I didn't know where to get smoked bulbs. Though maybe giving them a light coat of black spray paint would smoke them? Either way the new bulbs light up the cluster way better than before so I have no complaints.

Hey new member here! Just recently purchased an R50 this week and I had to tackle this exact problem! My fuel level sensor was working correctly as well but I think it's a win/loss no matter what issue you run into. The fuel level sensor looks like an expensive part while the instrument cluster is technical but cheap. I will say my fuel tank seal did NOT want to go back in place. It had stretched out so much I couldn't fit it back in the grooves. I was looking for the fuel tank seal online and was struggling trying to find one that wasn't outrageous expensive. There is one on rockauto and I believe I found a cheap part #. The Carter PTS2043. Anyways I took apart the instrument cluster and you really want to just take everything apart. The LCD screen just pulls straight up. Wiggle it out if you need to. I have always been terrible at soldering, especially electronics but I tried this and I believe I fixed it on the first try. I focused on the resistors you mentioned while also touching up others. Multiple of my bulbs in the instrument cluster were out. They are the Toshiba v-2. A quick Google search shows that you can pull the bulbs out and replace them with #74 mini bulbs. (2-pack at AutoZone for $6). I ended up grabbing them with pliers and destroying 2 out of the 4 I was replacing. A YouTube video that shows using a thumbtacks to remove the bulb just ended up breaking the plastic holder. I may end up switching to LEDs in the future but this worked out for me since I wanted to complete the project that day.