Frenchy
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Posts posted by Frenchy
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There is one part that you also forget. You still have labor to include on that price when building it yourself. Could you make it fit your need a bit better? Possibly depending on what your needs are and as long as you have the necessary knowledge and tools to do so. That said I can promise that the labor you put in compared to what a company like Sherpa Equipment has done will basically even put at the least.
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It's an XE so no...... XE is the base model. SE is the high end(not by much) model. Yes it is clean and has some of the preferred things like the rear tire carrier and roof rack but that's it. If it was a SE Sport then possibly.
Why SE Sport you ask? The Sport Package came with Sport(LEGO) wheels with 31 inch tires, adjustable suspension (simple soft and firm flip shocks), Limited Slip Differential(also available with XE if it has the power Package), Rear Disc Brakes, Fog Lights, Security System, Sun Roof, Roof Rack and Rear Tire Carrier. Most of there made it a very capable 4x4. The XE can still do ok, but need more stuff to do what the SE Sport can do.
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7 hours ago, Slartibartfast said:
There's nothing wrong with paying big money for pre-built stuff, if you can afford it. Some of us can't.
I have heard this from many individuals, the same individuals that keep dropping over a grand on the cheap Chinese Wheels and have to have the latest and grates I Phone every year.
I actually deal with the same @!*% on the 5G Ranger Forum.
It's not like you can't save your money to buy something either. It is what I had to do and it has worked out well. I still have more things to get for my 93 Pathfinder for it to be finished.
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On 9/1/2023 at 8:01 AM, Teesetz said:
Hell it’s just nice to know and feel suspension that isn’t almost as old as me.
For the rack, I think it would it would have to come with the tent, and a hot chick with a rack for that much
lol
When you get down too it a good tent is going to cost way more than you think. Even my Swag Tent from CrashPad cost $400 with shipping to get here in the states. A good RTT will cost a couple Grand.
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You are not wrong!! I have seen many individuals on the Nissan side Especially (yes I have seen it other places too) not want to spend money unless it's to do a SAS or drop over a grand on cheap Chinese wheels!!
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In a way it is pricey, but that company did their homework. Since it uses extrusion beams it is customizable to fit your needs.
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It's a start for what it's worth. Since you have the factory rack you can easily fit this particular rack to your Pathfinder. I have it on my 93. All you have to do is remove the factory crash bars and bolt in the rack. Only took me about 2 hours to do in the snow.
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That is one of the uses for that switch. When OffRoad and you get in a bind and feathering the clutch is dangerous you can leave it in gear when starting and that should get you where you need.
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5 hours ago, gamellott said:
The interlock switch is momentary and I am sure there is some kind of timer to it, although I have not done any research on how long it lasts. I hit the switch and turn the key and drive off....
No timer at all. It is on when pressed an off once released
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So you have an idea here is the current setup I have. I just mounted the Gamin to the dash. Thankfully it doesn't bounce around a bunch. Some say it's overpriced, but I think it's worth the money.
You also see the Alpine deck and the Midland GMRS
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/n72narbkmpkav8c/AAAPnlkCTkymxWHA3n134TBra?dl=0
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Hopefully it works out well enough. I know with Google Maps alone it becomes a pain as the phone goes haywire once it looses signal. I can only imagine how it is with the few apps.
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I have no idea what that device is, but I am curious.
That said I installed an Alpine Single Din with XM for my Radio. As for OffRoad Navigation I recently just picked up a Garmin Overlander. Even with the current sale it is pricy, but I feel it is worth the money since it will go off of satellite reception vs depending on Cell Towers. For communication I have a Midland MXT-275 GMRS with the 6DBI whip antenna. I don't have pictures at the moment but I can share that soon
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Not sure if the link will work, but I would consider what Flatout OffRoad in New Zealand has. It is considered universal, but you can select the width for a simple rubber type flare.
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He actually has it backwards on the interlock switch. When it's off you have to push the clutch pedal in to start it. When you turn the interlock on(momentarily BTW) then it will start without the clutch being pushed in.
It can be helpful in many different situations that you can find, but thankfully I haven't had to worry myself.
As for the adjustable suspension switch sport is meant for OffRoad and Touring is meant for street. Touring will be softer and sport will be stiffer(as long as the shocks are the electronic and aren't blown out). I myself do not have the adjustable shocks anymore. The rears were no longer available and the fronts cost a bit. I decided to go with Old Man EMU shocks on mine along with the Old Man EMU coil springs and Sway A Way torsion bars.
In general it still does very well in the OffRoad and on the street.
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1 hour ago, 92SEPathFindr said:
Right on Frenchy, yes in the last several years for 1992 I have replaced AC & compressor, all lenses, headlights, complete brakes & new rotors, the clutch, bearing, & rear main seal, all belts, cooling system, hoses, water pump, thermostat, radiator, fan clutch, regular coolant flushes oil air filter changes, brake master reservoir, timing belt with camshaft seal (?), 5 off-road tires Hankook Dynapro AT2, dash carpet, seat covers, removed old window tint. What it needs: front axles replaced/rebooted, most suspension bushings and related parts, engine rebuild/replace probably due to a bearing problem, front drivers side quarter panel has dent from 2020 fender bender ( insurance “totaled” the car from this accident so the title is “salvage title” in CA, some of the exterior parts like window trim and rear tire carrier have surface rust. Basically due to financial reasons, time needed, and lack of mechanical skill I may decide not to keep both Pathfinders. My gut wants to keep both though vehicles lol!! If or when I decide to sell the 92 I would post more extensive photos and add some videos to YouTube showing everything. Thanks again Frenchy and take care. Aaron
I'm going to go out on a limb and say that 92 has the sport package right?(Sport wheels aka LEGO wheels, Rear Disc Brakes, Adjustable shocks that are probably blown)
If that's the case I say keep it. They came with a really nice LSD in the rear and allow them to goany places OffRoad. Also being a Body On Frame design VS the Unibody design of the R50 I can promise you this will hold up much better OffRoad.
As for myself I made sure to get another Sport(LEGO) wheel for the spare so my offset is correct for the 31's. I also run the Firestone Destination XT's as they are the lightest and most durable All-Terrain I have found!!
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Also I might want pictures of the 92. Chances are you can take care of a lot of the work on it for way less. I have more then that in my 93, but that is due to all the extras I have put into it(small lift, matching spare, fixing electrical Gremlins from previous owner, adding OffRoad accessories and bunch of different maintenance). As long as you are not looking at it for something to make money on but instead enjoy driving it makes spending money on a lot easier.
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With the little experience I have with the R50(it has been a few years BTW) I can say that they do ride nice when you have the suspension on good shape and the right shocks and struts. Even though expensive I highly recommend going with Factory Nissan parts(as long as available) if you don't plan to take it off the street. Nissan also has the Value Advantage line for many parts and I know the R50 is included. Once you got all the parts installed I highly recommend sending to a local shop you trust and getting it aligned.
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Do this check with a DMM. First check battery voltage with vehicle running. While it's running leave the positive lead of the DMM at the battery and move the ground lead to different ground wires. That will help you find a bad ground. Start with that and go from there.
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I would verify the ground cable on the alternator is tight. Mine was loose on my 93 and was causing some odd issues with the instrument cluster
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The upper control arms have 2 bushings each and are the same for front and rear of the the front upper control arm. The lower control arm has the bushings in the Frame and the bushings for the strut/compression rod. For the rear you have the 4 trailing arms that all share the same bushings (2 for each arm) and then bushings for the Pan Hard Bar. That is about all there is.
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Sounds like the normal manifold leak. What is the actual cause of the problem? Most likely manifold studs breaking. Is it fixable? Absolutely
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I would be glad to show it if this forum would let me. It doesn't like pictures that are more than 2 bits. I think the Admin should do something about that because it's annoying and I can download pictures just fine to other forums
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On 6/23/2023 at 10:52 PM, Teesetz said:
Definitely!
Also just realized I may as well go ahead and do tension rod bushing since I’ve gone this far. Going to get those ordered, the nuts pb blasted, and THEN the alignment shop lolMake sure the cups aren't gone. If they are you need to get them fixed before the alignment. If you don't it will never hold alignment.
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10 hours ago, Slartibartfast said:
I popped mine out today to have a look. Is this what yours looks like?
I'm not sure what to make of the sweaty free-balling Christmas ornament second from the right. The drip says some kind of fluid is involved, and the color says it's urgent, but I don't see anything indicating heat. The '87 service manual shows a fuel filter light in the warning lamps section, specific to the SD25 diesel. I suspect that's what this is supposed to be. Maybe the bit at the bottom is supposed to be a sediment bowl? Naturally the manual only shows the circuit schematic, not the picture that the bulb lights up. The manual also shows a glow plug light, but nothing about that idiot light says "glow plug" to me (not that it really screams "filter," either). There is a bulb in that slot, and it's wired to the plug on the back of the surround, but the dash harness that plugs into it is not pinned for either of this bulb's wires.
The left side has two idiot lights for the auto trans (O/D Off and Power), one blacked-out idiot light slot with no bulb in it, and a low washer fluid light, which does have a bulb, despite being marked Canada-only in every service manual I've looked at. I did not chase the wiring to see if the washer fluid light or the empty slot are wired in the dash harness, but I did see that the dash harness plug has five pins, which is more than the two lights for the trans should need. (I'm also curious whether the manual US-spec trucks have a different rack of idiot lights for the left side, or whether it's just completely blanked out.)
What you have pictured is what I noticed. The one second from the right is the Engine Oil Temp Light. It is mentioned in the Owners manual for the VG30E (US manual doesn't mention engines besides the VG30E and KA24E). looking in the FSM I could.not find anything on it and I'm wondering if there might be some kind of program in the ECM that calculates Engine Oil Temp based on other parameters. Being that old it is possible but unknown.
Finished…for now
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
As much as I hate to say it you are not wrong. The best part about it all is the "I can build it myself for less" Crowd won't build it and then complain about there not being any aftermarket support....... Sometimes I wonder if that particular crowd is the reason Nissan doesn't exactly have the best resale value here in the States?!