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Frenchy

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Posts posted by Frenchy

  1. Yeah, those "fake" vents are not fake. They are functional and I recommend leaving them be.

     

    As for lights I used a old brush guard to mount two driving lights and two fog lights from IPF. They were awesome!

  2. Is it going to be quite simple. First unplug your wiper motor. Go to activate it and see if it pops a fuse. If it does follow the harness and go to the next plug. Unplug it. Try to activate the rear wiper and see if it pops a fuse. If it does not you at least eliminated a lot of work of where it could be and now you know where you need to look. Of where it could be and now you know where you need to look.

  3. Unfortunately I can't really attach pictures to this form because it's special. That said if you got an eco club and open up a service manual for a '93 or even a 94 Pathfinder you can find the procedure on how to set this. You'll want to go to the engine mechanical or EM section. Everything you need should be in that. Also keep in mind that cylinder 1 is on the passenger side of the vehicle at the front of the vehicle

  4. I will make this easy for you and tell you to get a Speed Bleeder for the Slave Cylinder. The NAPA part number to use is 675-1572.

     

    This particular bleeder has a check ball that will close with no pressure and open with pressure when cracked open. Make sure you have a a clear hose and a bucket of sorts for fluid collection. Do that and you will be set.

  5. All those things do is to press any switches that may be in said place. If you have an automatic chances are it will be for your break and cruise control for the brake pedal. If you have a manual transmission you will obviously have one for the brake pedal for brake lights and the cruise control. You're also going to have one on the clutch pedal for the start switch and cruise control interrupt. If those are not there and the switches are just sticking out cruise control will not be able to activate and/or the brake lights will stay on.

  6. These are used to install. I have installed plenty. Simply push the pedal down for the one you're trying to install. Well holding the pedal down put your little green gumdrop in place and hold it there. Well holding that start to release the pedal until it touches the gum drop. Now you can release the gum drop itself and you can somewhat force that in with the pedal. That is the easiest method I have found

  7. So it is already a general standard that when towing over a certain amount(2000 lbs I think) that you should have a trailer brake of some sort on the trailer to assist with stopping. Most of the time trailers will have electric brakes instead of hydraulic surge type brakes(like U-Haul).

     

    My question is did Nissan ever put a plug under the dash on the WD21'S to make it easier to install a trailer brake controller if one wishes too? Or was that done much later in the 2000's?

     

    I ask simply for the fact someone tried to claim there is a plug for it and I was under the impression that you have to tap into wiring and make a custom harness to make it work.

  8. Assuming you do have everything disconnected, I would put the nuts back on(just a few threads) and lightly smack the master cylinder with a dead blow hammer(not to be confused with a rubber mallet)from the top and bottom the best you can. Hopefully that should break it loose enough for it wants to come off and then this will help keep it from flying off

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  9. Well the Lares coupler just ce in today and it will be going on today or tomorrow depending on my motivation. That said taking a closer look at the current one, it is split pretty bad and I'm sure that is where a bit of my problem is right now

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