bamashooter

Update: Though my timing belt replacement turned into a disaster, I stand corrected regarding that little coolant "burp" valve. I must have spent well over an hour trying to get the air out of the cooling system. And that was with the front elevated on a set of ramp. It would just boil (not overheated boiling) and boil. Looked like a green volcano. Kept adding coolant, etc. Finally, I removed that little white plastic screw. Within 5-10 minutes, the air was finally gone. I now love that little turd. Don't understand why the normal way wasn't getting it done but that's how it worked out. I have googled til the cows come home, anyone have source for that plastic bolt/screw or a brass equivalent? Thanks.

Sorry for the delay. Thanks.

Great. Thanks my friend. Took a large animal syringe, minus needle, filled in with very warmed (thinned) goop and filled the voids. Wiped excess from side gaps. We are currently having tornadoes in my area. What's next?

Thanks. I'm still very much the rookie on Nissans et al. I find multiple configurations of the VG30 to include different style housings of both the oil and water pumps. I also spt the seal theory for that terrible fitment. I see no sense in it being a dowl such as you might find on trannies and such. I did put a dab of red goop on the rear section where it would meet the bottom of the water pump gasket. Reckon we'll soon see any negatives. Regarding the water pump gasket. The FSM barely mentions removal / installation of the gasket. Nothing on "stick'um". My Haynes emphasizes goop on both sides. I assume that's nothing more than an opinion. I used a very light coat of Gasgacinch on the pump side of the gasket and nothing on the engine side. Thanks again.

Why are these pics gigantic? The file sizes are tiny. Copy / paste url from Imgur. Thanks.

Title pretty much says it all. One on each side of housing. Hard steel pin housed in hard rubber? coating. Can find nothing about them. Hope they're not critical. Was thinking either guidance installation pins, dowels, none of the above. Didn't look and can't find pics of any related holes in front of block. Thanks.

Thought I was getting close to completion. Craziest thing. Keep having coolant leakage issue. Get everything dry, etc. 2-3 days pass and all is dry. The next morning there is coolant on oil pump housing and other locations on engine front. With a mechanic's mirror, I hopefully discovered the leak source as being a messed up water pump gasket, primarily on the bottom. Removed pump and discovered the gasket was arguable the worst-condition gasket I have ever seen. Not knowing the history, last night I ordered a Gates (China) pump and gasket. I trust Gates. Additionally, I feel confident now that little "knick" on the bottom of the oil pump housing is indeed the crank timing mark. Watching yet another Nissan video, the poster happen to mention the timing mark is approx 10mm to the right of bottom, right-most casting "thing", I measured and it was precisely 10mm. Marked it. Noticed a dot of coolant on the upper hose "burp" valve". I personally find that thing to be worthless. Removed, siliconed the threads and finished doing same to the head of it. No reason with the front elevated that it won't bleed the air when changing coolant. Pump should be here in a week or so (Amazon).

Thanks guys. BTW, I see 2 guides mentioned to include in diagrams but upon disassembly, mine had only the one between the gear and oil seal. So basically from the rear it's guide / crank timing gear / guide, remainder.

Background: Changing timing belt, tensioner, front oil seal. Took close to 10 man hours with a heavy equipment mechanic buddy of mine doing most of the attempted removal of the sprocket. Beating the dog crap out of pick forks, crowbars, etc. Budged enough to get a claw-style pulled on it. Perhaps another 1/64" moved with it. I finally took an air chisel to it and after about 10 minutes it cracked / popped free. Between the sprocket and oil seal is a large-diameter shim / washer, etc piece of metal. Believe the common nomenclature for it is "crankshaft timing plate". Haven't found it's role but I'm thinking it's for keeping the timing belt away from the oil pump housing. Not a guide in the traditional sense. It got beat to hell and back during the process. I tapped it and squeezed it in a large vise between two 1x4s. Perhaps useable in an emergency. Two questions: I purchased a Dayco sprocket from Auto Zone online. Never could find what I thought was the proper "shim" online. Went to the local Nissan dealership. Two things. No mechanic had any experience or knew zilch regarding the VG30 V6. Amazing. The parts kid managed to order a 2-pack of the shims. Received and as all others I found online, these are the same diameter, however, they are slightly dish / cupped on one side. Slotted for key. Fairly certain the factory shim was not however it appears to have been machined with a slight recess on one side. The more I compare the more similarity I see between the 2. Convex side out toward radiator. Any comments on the shim? The sprocket: The teeth on the factory sprocket are deep. The new sprocket shallow. Both the new / old belts fit perfectly in each sprocket. The only difference I see is an empty space beneath the belt lugs on the older, deeper sprocket. My friend tells me that space is for cooling the belt. No idea if that's true. I have yet to see a photo of a new, deep sprocket. Everything I see online is the shallow style for the VG-series. Comments? I am considering having the sprocket drilled and tapped for 6mm bolts to use with a simple puller should the need arise. I have now pretty much polished the front end of the crank shaft. Yesterday morning was 1 degree and got up to 9*. It's current a balmy 12 here in north-central Alabama. Rolling blackouts. Not a bunch of fun. By this coming Friday it shows pushing 70. Crazy. Third: Replacing lower radiator hose. I find nowhere online the small section which connects to the thermostat housing. None. Mine "seems" ok after a good cleaning and drowned in silicone. Thinking perhaps I could buy a short straight hose and cut-off a short length? Fourth: (Evidently I can't count) I mostly see the cam shaft timing marks configured at an angle which would form a V-shape ultimately. I found one pic/reference where the guy swore up and down (my words) that the 2 cam sprocket dots should align vertically with their corresponding rear cover marks. I also read where the more accurate method is to count belt teeth from passenger-side mark (sprocket?) to driver-side mark. Followed by the counted teeth from driver-side mark to crank mark. I have no sign of a dot, line, nothing to align the crank sprocket dot to the oil pump housing. Guaranteed not there. I had read days ago another method on the crank Thanks guys and have a safe, Merry Christmas.

Background: Changing timing belt, tensioner, front oil seal. Took close to 10 man hours with a heavy equipment mechanic buddy of mine doing most of the attempted removal of the sprocket. Beating the dog crap out of pick forks, crowbars, etc. Budged enough to get a claw-style pulled on it. Perhaps another 1/64" moved with it. I finally took an air chisel to it and after about 10 minutes it cracked / popped free. Between the sprocket and oil seal is a large-diameter shim / washer, etc piece of metal. Believe the common nomenclature for it is "crankshaft timing plate". Haven't found it's role but I'm thinking it's for keeping the timing belt away from the oil pump housing. Not a guide in the traditional sense. It got beat to hell and back during the process. I tapped it and squeezed it in a large vise between two 1x4s. Perhaps useable in an emergency. Two questions: I purchased a Dayco sprocket from Auto Zone online. Never could find what I thought was the proper "shim" online. Went to the local Nissan dealership. Two things. No mechanic had any experience or knew zilch regarding the VG30 V6. Amazing. The parts kid managed to order a 2-pack of the shims. Received and as all others I found online, these are the same diameter, however, they are slightly dish / cupped on one side. Slotted for key. Fairly certain the factory shim was not however it appears to have been machined with a slight recess on one side. The more I compare the more similarity I see between the 2. Convex side out toward radiator. Any comments on the shim? The sprocket: The teeth on the factory sprocket are deep. The new sprocket shallow. Both the new / old belts fit perfectly in each sprocket. The only difference I see is an empty space beneath the belt lugs on the older, deeper sprocket. My friend tells me that space is for cooling the belt. No idea if that's true. I have yet to see a photo of a new, deep sprocket. Everything I see online is the shallow style for the VG-series. Comments? I am considering having the sprocket drilled and tapped for 6mm bolts to use with a simple puller should the need arise. I have now pretty much polished the front end of the crank shaft. Yesterday morning was 1 degree and got up to 9*. It's current a balmy 12 here in north-central Alabama. Rolling blackouts. Not a bunch of fun. By this coming Friday it shows pushing 70. Crazy. Third: Replacing lower radiator hose. I find nowhere online the small section which connects to the thermostat housing. None. Mine "seems" ok after a good cleaning and drowned in silicone. Thinking perhaps I could buy a short straight hose and cut-off a short length? Thanks guys and have a safe, Merry Christmas.

Thanks. GTG here too.

Thanks. Can this be squared away please? This server could not prove that it is www.nissanpathfinders.net; its security certificate expired 2 days ago.

Couldn't locate generic admin topic area. I prefer the forum Dark Theme. However, characters entered into the small search window are nearly invisible.

Curious. Whose 27-spline manual hubs came on the 87 Pathfinder? Have googled til my my finger bleed. Though the search would be simple. Figured either Aisin or its predecessor, ASCO. Will likely be installing a set of Premiums soon. Fairly proud of them these days compared to past sets. Oh well. Everything is costly these days.