Harvey

not sure about the body lift but Raw, Lovells, Dobinsons, EFS, Ironman, OME all do suspension lifts for WD21 models... you'll need to import from Oz though.

October 1986 for me... have completely stripped it this year and it was 100% genuine... I don't think it'd been cleaned since it's build either given some of the items i found

Hi All, I ordered some new door locks for my Pathy but I've noticed a couple of things... 1 - I need some plastic bits as it's the plastic bits of the door clock inside the door that closes next to the latch on the B pillar thats broken. So my question is - where do i get these plastic bits from? 2 - whilst I can figure out how to take of the cath that holds the lock barrell on the door, how do I actually detach the barrell from the rest of the mechanism? thanks all! Harv.

Does anyone know the difference between the injectors of the nissan diesel's TD27 and QD32? Specifically i'd like to know if there a difference in: 1 - part numbers? 2 - physical size - in other words would an injector from one of the engines screw into the other engine? 3 - flow rate? Thanks all! Harv.

Hi All, I'm after opinions/reviews from those who have the Procomp M/T [not the extreme version] on their 4x4. My own tire history has taken me from Cooper ST's which were fab to Bridestone 693's which are ok... The Procomp's near me are the cheapest per tire by about £25 and I like the fact they're siped.... but i've read reports online of very weak sidewalls which is a concern for me. So over to your experience! thanks all Harv.

I'm exclusively a Kenwood fella purely because for my music tastes and the volumes I listen to my music at I haven't come across a better overall brand yet. But, in talking with my local car audio [specifically about Head units] he informs me that for normal retail brands he would put the top four as: 1 - Alpine 2 - Pioneer 3 - Kenwood 4 - Sony He said the Pioneers do provide slightly better sound and overall quality than Kenwood and that Sony sound very tinny when compared to Kenwood. As for value for money, for the quality you get he said he'd personally pay the extra for the Alpine if he had the cash but if not, his preference would be for Kenwood. He said Pioneer really just don't provide the value of money of these other two preferred brands and that Sony is too expensive for what you get. I hope this helps.

Just another thought on this for anyone else who's never done anything like this before... before you disconnect the old harness to add the new one, write down what colour wires from the car manufacturer's own wiring loom are attached to the ISO connector because they probably won't be the same colour. For example... whereas the battery wire on the ISO harness is yellow, the battery wire on my vehicle's loom is green with a white stripe.

Thanks for your guidance as it is appreciated. For the benefit of others who like me, are brand new at this sort of thing here is what i've learned today: On the ISO lead there are 2 parts to the connection. The black connection part is for hooking the head unit up with the power and earth. The brown part is for connecting the speakers. On the black ISO connector: yellow = battery, red = power, black = earth, blue = remote and orange = illumination On the brown ISO connector: Green and white relate to the left hand side of the car, Grey and Purple relates to the right hand side of the car. *Each colour with the black stripe is the negative wire and the solid colour is the positive.* *Note: this observation appears to be opposite to the audio cable for the speakers themselves with the wire that has the stripe being the positive connection. regards Harv.

Can anyone guide me please?

Hi All, Today i've been putting in new front speakers into my Paddy. The speakers come with their own wiring and connections. The connections to the new speakers are actually very different to the size of the connections that were on the OEM speakers. And, the legth of the wires on the new speakers are long enough to feed right through the doors to the actual stereo. Given my scenario above my questions are: 1 - do I just cut the new wires that come with the new speakers and join them to the old wires from the OEM speakers? 2 - do I get rid of all the original wires that came with the OEM speakers and buy new connectors to attach to the end of the new wires so they connect to my new head unit? 3 - is there any advantage in number 2 vs. number 1 as far as sound quality is concerned? Thanks all Harv.

What do you mean by an 'AFC' unit? A stand alone unit costs in the uk around £3,500. A 2nd hand OEM costs around £175 on the upper side and £65 on the low side. For my race car I can justify the costs but on this project I can't. Though I must admit I haven't seen the costs of Apex or HKS so I'll check them out. To date i've just seen the prices of just GEMS, Emerald, Omex, Motech etc.

Dave thanks very much for your help in this. I really do appreciate it. Harv.

Hi all, does anyone know of a Japanese import company or a Japanese wrecker's yard who may be able to source ECU's? I'm seriously struggling on this front. I've got the QD32ETI engine but I can't source an ECU or wiring loom for it for a manual vehicle. As it stands the only company doing a stand-a-lone ECU for a diesel is Motec and at £3,500 i'd rather get rid of the engine i've bought and put a different model in as it's cheaper to do! But i don't want to do this if I can help it, hence my question here. Thanks all Harv.

excellent. thank you all for your help and guidance on this one. Harv.

i didn't think the tough plastic were as strong. I'm sure i've read on other forums talking about steel being tougher that was the only reason...