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emw

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Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1999 r50
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    46+
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1999

Profile Information

  • Location
    23060
  • Country
    United States

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  1. Hi lots of old posts but nobody ever responds and says if anything actually worked??? does anyone have a really good answer here..Im doin it now...the fuse box brake light switch is always hot..so no good..the red wire coming out of the brake light switch behind the brake pedal is always hot..so no good..the other green wire coming from the brake pedal light switch is not hot... however i spliced into it and it has{ no} power when pedal is pressed??? anyone have a solution??..My next step is to tie into the actual brake light and run a wire all the way back under the dash....i will check today and see if that is always hot..What a nightmare...
  2. BY the way..how did you do the lift on it...i would like to lift mine

    1. colinnwn

      colinnwn

      You mean my 2" suspension lift?

       

      I did it like 14 years ago and I used Automotive Customizers 2" heavy duty lift springs front and rear, with a camber kit in the front. There are much cheaper ways to do it now, and with better ride quality. I think I'd consider OME HD front springs and Land Rover rear springs. There are lots of recent threads on the forum with guys who have done it with these parts and are more knowledgeable about the specific parts to use now.

       

      Doing a subframe drop is the other way to lift it. But it is a ton of work, and you need to do some custom fabrication. It can also allow the CV joints to overextend, whereas a suspension lift will never allow that to happen because it can't extend beyond it's original design.

       

      Here is my blog on it...

       

      http://colinnwn.blogspot.com/2007/12/installing-suspension-lift-on-my-2001.html

       

  3. Hi..did you ever figure the best way to wire the red wire for the brake controller..im having the same issue now...I had it in the brake lite of the fuse box but thats hot all the time...

    1. emw

      emw

      Im getting constant on for my electric brakes..If i do the brake lite switch which is dam near impossible to get to..which wire is the cold side

    2. colinnwn

      colinnwn

       

      After replacing the brake switch rubber bushing and it taking 2 hours, I agree with it being impossible, and that was a no-go for me. 

       

      On my 2001, the ACSD (cruise control box) is behind the driver kick plate. In the connector going into it, on the bottom left 2nd to the last position (23) there should be a green/yellow stripe wire that goes to the brake switch.

       

      If your splice were to break the whole wire, it means that the cruise control wouldn't automatically kick off when you press the brake. I never use this method to disconnect the cruise, I always use the button and in an emergency I expect I'd stab the clutch (which would still disconnect the cruise), so it wasn't an issue to me.

       

      If that didn't work, my 2nd plan was to send a wire back in the loom all the way to the actual left rear tail light and connect it to the bulb wire. I already had a wire running up there to tap into the white back up light for the 7 pin.

       

      I don't remember the colors for the brake switch itself if that's what you want to do. I can post up the service manual PDF and send you a link.

       

       

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