spotana98

So I have a 91 Pathy, that in May had the Driver front door knocked off by an unsavory person who wasn't paying attention. Long story short, I picked up an electric replacement door off of a 95 Pathy from the local wrecking yard. The door fits as well as I need it to, but I have one small problem: The difference between the 91 Pathy and the 95 Pathy wiring harnesses are about 3 connections that I can't connect to anything. There were two connections under the dash that I was able to connect up with the new door, so the pwr window on said door works, as well as the speaker and the power mirror. However the locks and the other windows don't. I'm wondering if anyone has had to do this and perhaps wired on connections from the old harness to the new harness? The other windows aren't as big of a deal, but I need the power locks to work, because now I can't get into the rear hatch. Some of the wire colors are identical, it's just the connections are a little different. Anyone? I still have the 91 harness, so I could take connections off of there.

Definitely feeling the burn on that one. Although I feel that a real fail would have been giving up and not coming here after the two years since I was last here, and just assuming I would have to carry a rod to bash the starter every time to get going (I hate that). On a kinder note, I replaced the control arm bushings on my Vue this past weekend, without asking even one stupid question, so there's that. These emoticons are going to be the death of me.

You guys and your logic! HAHAHA. Okay, so maybe I'm the dumbass then and was trying to get at them from the front of the starter where I thought they were facing the firewall. So what you're saying to me is there is a threaded bolt that runs through the bell housing and into the starter, and that the bolt head is on the side with the bell housing, facing forward? I'm a little red in the face. It just seems every tutorial I've seen, I got the assumption that the two bolts were facing the back of the truck...

Nosir, sheared off right into where the bolts go into the starter. It's sad really, because other than the starter, she runs great, I'm just not competent enough nor have the facilities to pull an engine. One thing I didn't think of till now though. Are those botls threaded all the way to the block or tranny housing. It's a longshot, but I wonder of the starter could be slid off the bolts....hmmm....

So I started to get up under my beast (1991 V6 Pathy) and remove the starter and low and behold, some asshat managed to shear off both bolts that hold the starter on. Mind you, I spent $150 for this vehicle 3 years ago and swapped out tranny, and since then have only done oil changes and has ran like a champ. SO, I'm here asking if anyone has successfully removed ONLY the solenoid from the starter while everything is still mounted up. I know this is a daunting task (if possible) and I know that my only other option is to remove the engine and go at it with a tap and die set, so that's not really viable. Does anyone have any ideas short of rallying this thing off a cliff?

So the oddest thing happens. In the sand or snow, when I've started spinning my rear tires a little, when they spin freely from losing traction I hear a lot of clunk-clunk-clunk-clunk coming from under my Pathy. The best way to describe it is the drive line wobbling and smacking the bottom of my truck. Anyone else experience this?

Alright, I bought a pint of Sea-foam and added about 2/3 of it to the crankcase as well as some High Mileage 20-50W so I shall see what happens.

So my 150 pathy runs strong. Doesn't knock, is timed quite well, and now that I've changed the spark plugs, it doesn't misfire. My problem is the large plume of smoke for the first few minutes after I start my engine. I have no blow-by (all my plugs were dry and oil free) so I imagine it's the seals leaking oil down onto the piston head. The Nissan Dealership here quoted me about 360 to replace them. Does that sound about right? I know I don't want to tear into that V30E and if I can get away with less burnt oil, not to mention the nasty smell as well no spark plug foul, I'll pay it.

Now I know well enough that when a bulb is about to go out it will cause the relay to blink quickly. Well on my 91 Pathy, the LF blinker stopped working, and the relay blinks quickly. It doesn't take long before it freezes. First of all it started only when using the Left turn signal, now when it blinks normally on the right, it also freezes. This is part of the problem. The other part is I've checked the bulb, replaced it, and it still refuses to work. It's a bit corroded and I have done my best to clean it to no avail. My stupid question of the day is: Could I just have a worn out blinker relay, or am I dealing with a short of some type? It's a lame question, probably answered quite easily, but I'm electronically retarded.

The guys that did the tranny swap inspected as much as they could and said that it was clean. I tested it before taking it in to make sure it wasn't slipping at all. They took the throwout bearing from my old tranny and put it on my wreakin' yard tranny. He said the TB was very smooth. Anyway, I got it back and it moves like a dream. Sometimes it feels a little weird when I shift into second, but that could just be my paranoia :tonguefinger:

Well I decided to cut my losses and leave it to the professionals. This should be interesting, the thing has made the bearing noise since I bought it, but at $150 for my Pathfinder, I figure this is still a good deal. I will update with pictures when I get it washed and unleash it to the world!

Alrighty, so I am swapping my bearing-totalled 5 speed tranny for a rebuilt tranny. I have never done this before and my Chilton's manual is being a PITA. I'd like a little guidance from someone who has done it before. So far I've removed part of the exhaust, removed the two bolts under the transmission, removed the transfer case shifter, and disconnected electrical connections. The Chiltons manual speaks of taking off the drive shaft, removing the torsion springs and a bunch of other stuff. Do I have to remove the transfer case to get the transmission out and install the new one? It seems the steps in there include removal of the TC, and I don't want to unless I have to. Also, the clutch I have is only 3 months old, so I don't need to change it, but removing the tranny won't affect any of the clutch I assume. Any guidance, including the remaining steps I need to take, I would be forever greatful.

Thanks for the reply guys, I'll probably just throw in the other one after I go pick it up today. Anyone want a tranny for rebuild :-D

When you say tilting the Pathfinder to add that extra bit of fluid, is there a particular side to tip it. My tranny is making that hardcore growling/whining sound except in 4th. I already bought a tranny and have yet to pick it up, I wonder if making sure the tranny is full would stop that bearing noise. Any ideas?