Preacher

I came to the same conclusion when I had the hub off and could get a good look at it. That's why I returned the incorrect hubs and decided to just order bearings and races and go that route. I have never done this before, but vids make the procedure pretty clear.

The hubs I got were the wrong ones (they were supposed to be for an Armada). I'll check the preload before removing the hub, but I'm really thinking that if I have gone this far, I might as well replace the bearings and the races in the old hubs and be done with it. To be honest, working on this thing is kinda fun.

Thanks for the advice, guys. I have snap ring pliers (I had the passenger side off the truck). I think the only seal is the wheel seal on the rear of the hub. The phillips head screws came out with no issues (let's hope it's the same for the driver side). I'll be glad when the bearings come so I can get at it.

Thank you for that advice and the link. I just ordered the one in the link and it will be here on Saturday (before the bearings and races). I can rent the tool to seat the races locally. This is going to save me money over new hubs anyway. I also got the springs and shocks for the rear and will be doing those tomorrow.

I got the old hubs off as the new ones were being delivered. Got the delivery and they were the WRONG ones. I'm was kinda peeved at that. I sent them back and I'm going to just replace the bearings and races in the ones that are on the truck. Saw a vid and it didn't seem to hard. That being said, any advice on replacing the bearings would be appreciated.

I'll re-check the drive shaft. The tires are brand new and only have about 20 miles on them. Even once I drove the vibration out I'm hearing a roaring from one of the front wheels. That is what made me suspect that a wheel bearing was bad. U joints are cheap enough that it might be worth replacing them.

Thank you guys. I have to admit to having a senior moment when I installed an Android Auto head unit, put everything back together and forgot to plug in the flashers. I'm heavily suspecting the wheel bearings. I had a little extra money so I ordered new hubs. I'll install them when the arrive on Tuesday. It's hard to admit that I did something so foolish as forget to plug in the cord for the flashers.

Installed new wipers and put graphite in the locks. The truck sat for a long time. I also installed an android auto head unit with a backup camera. Now I'm waiting on new hubs to arrive. The gap at the bottom irritates me to no end, but the dash kit from Crutchfield simply doesn't do any good and it's the only one they show. I'm not good at fabricating stuff, so no danger of me coming up with an idea on my own. The next big job will be detailing it.

Thank you. Those were checked when the transfer case was put in. I they seemed pretty solid so I didn't replace them. I also noticed that I'm hearing roaring from one of the front wheels. I also noticed when driving it today that the vibration starts at about 40mph and gets considerably less noticeable after 50mph. I have ordered new hubs and will see if that fixes my issues.

I'll check that. Thank you!!

I was gifted a 2004 Pathfinder SE. It had lots of issues, but I worked to get them sorted out I replaced the front brake calipers and master cylinder, and took it for a test drive today. I have 2 issues that I can't chase down: I have not run signals (no hazards). I checked the fuses for both and they are fine. The other issue is that I get a vibration starting at about 40mph. This I suspect to be a bad CV axle (or both). This is my first Pathfinder and I'm pretty stoked about having it running and driving. Can some of you knowledgeable guys give me some suggestions about where to start?

There is almost no brake pressure at all. They just drop to the floor. I ordered new calipers (the old ones look like they have been sitting underwater). It feels like I have no front brakes at all. I'm thinking that once I get the new calipers and get them on that I can attempt to properly bleed the air out of the lines. If that doesn't work, I"ll look at the master cylinder (although I have my doubts about it being bad). I know that brake fluid is hydroscopic. Can water in brake fluid cause this issue? It would feel better if I could see somewhere that this thing is leaking (but I have NO fluid loss).

Pics of my free truck:

Got the Pathfinder running. The issue is that I have no brakes. The master cylinder is full and nothing is leaking. I just have brakes that go to the floor. The brakes are so rusty that I know I"m going to break the bleed valve trying to loosen it to bleed them. I'm also wondering if the master cylinder is the issue. Any help here would be greatly appreciate.

I'll be sharing photo's tomorrow. Once all the work was done I looked at the tires and they were awful so I ordered a new set and they are being put on tomorrow. I put oil in the engine to get it running, but use a low quality oil. I'll run that for a few weeks and then change to a synthetic (which I run in my cars). Despite all mechanical work being done, the real work begins when it's time to clean it up. It's dirty and smells like nothing I have ever experienced on the inside. We have a u-pull-it yard about 30 miles away. After the interior cleaning, I'll make a list of what trim parts and I need and take a trip.

Earlier in the year a family friend gave my a 2004 Pathfinder that her daughter had basically abandoned after the rear trailing arm broke. I got him home, replaced both rear trailing arms, and the track rod. Found out the transfer case was bad, found one for $25 from a salvage yard and put it in. I now need to put an exhaust system on it and replace the rear brakes. The interior is pretty nasty but just in need of a good cleaning. I also need to remount the 3rd brake light. Once I put oil in the engine, it ran super smooth. By next week it should be running and driving so that I can move onto the next phase of putting on some new tires and doing a full detail (I don't like driving filthy cars).