bigdave

Because i dont have $10,000 and ive got a lot of parts into the Pathfinder already.

BTW, is anyone good with a pencil? Id like to see a quick sketch of a bed on a WD21 Pathfinder the same length as stock, rear wall of hardbody cab w/window, frontier extender, and utility rack.

Thanks for that link. Id like to somehow put a gate on the rear, so i can use the Frontier tail gate extender and also put a portion of a utility rack over the bed. The rack would hold long items like a jack, shovel, etc and also give me the option to cover it with canvas to serve as a hangout.

Does anyone have any pics of a WD21 with a truck bed? Im looking for a wrecked hardbody so i can cut off the rear of the cab and part of the truck bed, and turn my Pathfinder into something like a Chevy Avalanche. Im inspired by the Ford Expedition Himalaya concept that never went into production. Avalanche Expedition Himalaya

I was actually slipping my shoes on to go to the hardware store...

HA! I found the 2 upper nuts in the shoes i used last while working on the Pathfinder. Now i remember i stuck them in there so i wouldnt lose them. Figures

Wow thanks. Thats exactly what i needed to know. It helps knowing the exact specs on the nut because 19mm nuts arent carried by many hardware stores. This assists in my calling around in the morning. Again, thanks!

Any idea on the thread? Its kinda hard to pull up to a hardware store and drop the torsion bar to go inside and compare nuts, lol.

Does anyone know the size of the torsion bar lock nuts that sit on top of the adjusting nut? I seem to have dropped the lock nuts while adjusting the torsion bars a few days ago and i have to go buy 2 more. Size and thread pitch is all i need to know. Just to make sure everyone knows what im talking about, its the nuts you loosen above the nuts the torsion bar adjuster screws in to. Thanks ahead of time!

I have RC UCA's and wish i just spent the money and bought Calmini. Theres ball joint mounting issues on the RC arms. With all the ball joint mounting bolts torqued to spec, theres still a gap in between the ball joint and the arm. You can see light right through them. Also the weld on the RC arms interfere with the ball joints, so you have to grind the ball joint plate down a little on the corners. I wish i bought Calmini. I just got my Calmini idler arm brace last night and this thing has good craftsmanship written all over it. Customer service was great as well. I think some people who give Calmini customer service a bad rep are just annoying people in the first place.

You didnt ask which cylinders were low on compression? Are you sure your mechanic isnt trying to rip you off for an engine rebuild? Take it home and check the compression yourself.

Any gains are going to be heresay. The stock throttle body will flow good enough to support more than twice what the motor is putting out in stock form. You will never notice the difference unless you compliment that mod with some headwork, fuel delivery, and exhaust. You probably still wont notice much from the vg30 unless you have a turbo or s/c vg30. Take my reply and use it, ive done several 60mm throttle body swaps on the older z's with L28 motors. Its always the same old stuff, grinding the manifold, and my friends always complaining that theres no difference. The only thing thats gonna happen is that air velocity is going to be reduced installing a bigger throttle body on an engine that doesnt need it. I think Nissan did a good job matching engine components to flow evenly. in short (cliff's notes), dont bother.

When you think about it, a KA24de with a small no lag turbo would be a really nice swap in place of a Vg30.

You guys gotta remember that not everyone has enough brains to keep from shredding a tire or breaking an axle when boost comes in while on the rocks. You can always route the exhaust to the front of the motor and mount a turbo somewhere in the front.