[Axle fell out...]

7 minutes ago, MY1PATH said:

The splines are usually a pretty snug fit to that inner spider(the part it came out of) you may have to take the whole CV out to seat it.
Popping the inner CV cover out  gives you access to strike vertically on the center shaft to drive it back into the outer CV. If you get a new snap ring your first strike has to be solid with the joint straight or the snap ring will not compress enough to get inside the splines.

 

Alright, maybe back to the idea of replacing the entire axle.  I was looking at the infiniti parts catalog and there 7 different thicknesses of snap rings? If i type in vin will it show what i need or will i have to measure what i pull out with a caliper/micrometer to know what to get?

 

also is this the basic outline of what to do with the auto-hubs?

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35721-cv-boot-replacement-v-axle-replacement/?do=findComment&comment=669202

 

edit: also looking at new axles on rock auto, one says does not include abs ring? Do i need to buy one that does?

[Axle fell out...]

50 minutes ago, TowndawgR50 said:

 

Based on the image you provided the splined portion of the axle shaft has completely come apart from the flexible joint, which also has a splined portion that remains in the hub, presumably with the outer snap ring in tact. You need open the hub,  remove the outer snap ring then remove the flexible joint of the CV axle thats still attached to the back side of the hub. At that point you can assess if the inner snap ring has broken or there is any other damage which resulted in the CV axle coming apart. 

Thank you very much.

[Axle fell out...]

7 hours ago, Astrorami said:

Personally, I would just buy a whole axle. No point in dealing with all the grease and clamping the boot on when axles can be had for about $50.

 

If you did not reassemble the axle correctly with the snap ring in place to hold the rollers it can come apart while driving and spinning. Unless of course if you have manual hubs.

It partially comes down to laziness. The Axle is fully attached to the trans and is only about an inch out from the hub. The splines still look all good i think it was just the snap ring or the lack of it. 

7 hours ago, MY1PATH said:

Some do, some don't depends on the brand you buy. BUT that would be the outer snap ring for the hub.
In the case of the inner snap ring for the middle shaft into the CV it should always be there, they are assembled that way and it keeps the center shaft from popping out of the cage(and boot.) 

I've re-booted and re-caged a number of CV's 
Sure buying is easier but in some cases the factory part on hand is stronger than what you find at autozone and the cost of a factory strength one might just justify the extra effort of rebuilding.

My axle seems to be fine, i think the snap ring was the culprit (to which i also don’t see the snap ring online?). My problem is my cv partially in the hub but needs to move another inch or less to be fully seated in. Any advice? I tried taking off the tie rod end but it would not come out, and hammering it may have slightly damaged a thread. 

 

If i could just reboot it, grease it, and move it the 1 inch it needs id be all set

[Axle fell out...]

13 hours ago, zakzackzachary said:

If I recall correctly, new CV axles don't come with a new snap ring, so you may need to acquire one if yours is indeed missing. You You should be able to pop the hub cap off (~1.5" diameter cap in the middle of your lug studs) and wipe down the grease and look. Obviously if your axle slid out it's probably missing, but maybe it's still in the cap? Worth looking.

Also, looking at rockauto if i wanted to try and repair this, what should i buy?

 

a new boot and just the axle seal?

[Axle fell out...]

2 hours ago, zakzackzachary said:

If I recall correctly, new CV axles don't come with a new snap ring, so you may need to acquire one if yours is indeed missing. You You should be able to pop the hub cap off (~1.5" diameter cap in the middle of your lug studs) and wipe down the grease and look. Obviously if your axle slid out it's probably missing, but maybe it's still in the cap? Worth looking.

Will do, i believe i got it all assembled last night with the old axle in the way it was. Doing a bolt check tonight then putting the wheels back on and trying to drive Just not going to be using 4 wheel. I will definitely buy a new one because this ones either gone or failed. The ideal scenario is its fine till atleast midaugust when i have time to replace the axle fully.

[Axle fell out...]

9 hours ago, hawairish said:

Maybe the snap-ring never got reinstalled, or wasn’t fully seated?  Might be sitting inside the wheel hub. If missing, might be able to substitute it with another from the hardware store, but note that the snap-rings are specific thicknesses for providing the right amount of play, and there were part numbers for each thickness...you may need to order the replacement from Nissan. 

Just thew outer axle shaft seal?

8 hours ago, XPLORx4 said:

Als, your brake line has way too much tension on it. Remove the caliper or reposition the hub so that it’s not as stretched.

I immediately jacked the hub up after, just wanted the reference image

8 hours ago, XPLORx4 said:

I would advise replacing the whole cv axle. The connecting shaft should be held in the outer joint with a clip or other type of retainer and should be well seated and sealed by the cv boot. The clip seems to have failed and allowed the shaft to pull away from the cv joint itself.

Any recommendations? are the $60 ones on rockauto okay?

[Axle fell out...]

Eventful weekend with lots of jobs. Finished the passenger front lift, relatively smoothly with only minor problems but got that all sorted out, but the driver was a different story. Upon dropping the front shock as i went to pull it out the entire axle from out from the hub?

 

Has this happened to anyone before? Is it safe to try and reinsert it temporary or should i just go straight to buying a new axle? Rough timing since its a long weekend.

 

Any and all advice appreciated

[SOLVED: Brake light on after Brake job]

Sometimes i forget the age of these vehicles. this may not apply to everyone if they have this problem, but for me, when the fluid went low i assume it sucked the level sensor float with it and it got stuck to the bottom, so i just unplugged the sensor and gave a "technical tap" with a screw driver to the reservoir, and after just turning the vehicle back on the light is currently off. 

 

Will update if it comes back on. 

[SOLVED: Brake light on after Brake job]

13 minutes ago, Astrorami said:

I have no experience with the load sensing valve (LSV). You may have to bleed that if you have it.

BR-7 Page 8 

 

https://nicoclub.com/FSM/QX4/1997_QX4/br.pdf

 

Is it possible to be from just having the rear lift in or am i misinterpreting that wrong

[SOLVED: Brake light on after Brake job]

3 minutes ago, Astrorami said:

Could possibly have air in the module. Easy way to fix is with an obd computer that will actuate abs system.

Ill have to look into one.. do you know what the LSV air bleeder is thats referenced in the Service manual?

[SOLVED: Brake light on after Brake job]

4 minutes ago, Astrorami said:

did the fluid in the reservoir go nearly empty when pumping brakes? 

Yeah, once, my partner said the pedal went soft a couple times and i added fluid to fix it

 

Edit: wouldn't that throw and ABS light then not (E)brake?

[SOLVED: Brake light on after Brake job]

Just now, Astrorami said:

did you get air in the abs module?

not sure? only bled the 2 calipers nothing else?

[SOLVED: Brake light on after Brake job]

Hello,

Last night/today i decided to install my SF rear lift spacers (will be doing front soon) and today had to replace my front caliper due to the old one being seized. I replaced both sets of pads and bled the brakes. Fluid is all topped up and the pedal builds up pressure and does stop the car fine. Slight rubbing sound from passenger side brake but thats all. 

 

Any ideas as to why my brake light may be on? did i do something wrong in the front or bump something in the rear i should check? 

 

Thank you

[Proper Nerf Bars?]

so any recommendations for pre-face lift?

[Proper Nerf Bars?]

10 hours ago, mjotrainbrain said:

I had Westin steps on my QX4 and they were reasonably beefy and looked good. No rock sliders by any means, but they were a very effective step, as my stock ones also rusted out. Didn't buy from here, but this is them:

 

https://realtruck.com/p/westin-e-series-3-black-nerf-bars/v/infiniti/qx4/2002/

In the re-fresh between the 97 and later years theres no body change that would affect the fitment of these correct?

[Proper Nerf Bars?]

Was wondering if anyone had any affordable solutions to proper nerf bars. The side steps on my QX4 have rotted out and are just left with the plastic. While I do get a lot of people rip them off i use them very frequently when loading and unloading my kayaks and would prefer the more aggressive look.

[Suspension Sag]

4 minutes ago, onespiritbrain said:

Rockauto

I checked rockauto, didn’t see rear springs there

[Suspension Sag]

When doing pre-alignment checks on my QX4 i noticed the suspension was definitely low. Few months later put her in storage and just checked up on her today. sitting even lower. I know my rear shocks are okay they were replaced a few months ago but ill need to replace rear springs and front coils. 

 

My problem is I cant seem to find the rear springs on any places i normally go to shop.

Any recommendations to get back to stock height or a little higher just dont want to do a full lift or spacers. Just springs and coils.

Thank you.

 

1997 QX4

[Gas mileage...]

I know this topic has been brought up before but I see people getting around 300 miles per tank, but by the time my gauge is on E i'm only getting 200 miles (320km) and am paying $58 (75cad) a week to drive this thing. For a winter beater its certainly not cheap on gas. Is something wrong or is this to be expected? this is on 2WD, partial city and highway

[R50 Bump Stop Bolt?]

I know this is an old thread, but i didn't happen to see my jounce bumper on my passenger rear, and my driver side rear, its sitting at the bottom of the coil spring, on its side doing nothing. Whats the appropriate fix?

[Any concerns with a 1" spacer lift?]

19 minutes ago, hawairish said:

I think that if we're talking any amount of lift, I'd advocate springs over spacers any day like TowndawgR50.  Static spacers are convenient if you really want to keep stock ride characteristics, but with limited options even available, you have to disassemble the entire strut anyway to install them.  If you're going to go that far, springs are the way to go...better handling, better load support.  Spacers have their place for us, but springs will make more of a difference for only a little more cost.

Is there a spring for 1" lift?

[Any concerns with a 1" spacer lift?]

2 hours ago, TowndawgR50 said:

Problems can occur at 2" and up. The issue is limited to some brands of CV axles while others seem to be OK. In my opinion anything above 1" warrants a spring lift instead of spacers becuase of the risk and wear factor. I ran 2" lift spacers at first and If i could do it all over again id have gone with springs. 3 Broken Cv's, fast wear on my tires and the lost time/hassle of resolving issues related to installing spacers just isnt worth the gain of the extra inch. 

 

 

So 1" is perfectly fine, if i go for 2 do springs and longer shocks and that would prevent issues? or still have issues

[Any concerns with a 1" spacer lift?]

14 minutes ago, Blueinfan said:

I've always heard that anything 2.5" spacer lift and below is fine. The issues start when you start add anything 3" and more. 

I thought I read here 2" can be a point of consern with the CV axels

[What did you do to your Pathfinder today?]

Got her oil sprayed to prevent any rust 

[Any concerns with a 1" spacer lift?]

I know there have been many many post about lifts, and the search function here isn't great, but i was wondering if there are any concerns if i get the 1" SFCreations spacers? I know with 2+ i have to worry about CV angles and such, so is there any concern with a 1"? Just looking for maybe a little more clearance for winter. Also if there is a thread or anything that covers this exactly feel free to link it, thank you.