TroyButler
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Posts posted by TroyButler
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On 4/28/2019 at 3:03 AM, 02_Pathy said:
Little project I wrapped up today, got some scene lights and spot lights for the rack. Got the lights off of Amazon as they work for my needs and if I ever want to upgrade to a brighter spot light I can always do so in the future but it works pretty well for the price. The spots are Auxbeam brand and the side lights are Kalwell I believe. Ran the wiring through the superstrut channel crossbar I made and down the A pillar underneath the weatherstrip. I have 360° lighting and will come handy whether camping, in a parking lot or just to see everywhere in a dark area. Some of the pictures are with the normal headlights and then the lightbar and spot lights, then looking to the side without and with the side lights on.
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Sorry to bring up and old topic but I feel like adding more lights again, and was wondering what you used to attach the pods to the basket? thank you
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I know this may be a bit late, but yes you can very easily do a single kayak that way
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On 9/4/2019 at 7:38 PM, Mr_Reverse said:
Another approach would be to use the high beam wire near the switch to trigger the light bar. That is upstream of the drl module and won't trigger the light bar relay.
You could also just get another switch, they are cheap. Would also protect you from official attention since it is illegal to operate a light bar on public roads in most places. Just wire it in so that it prevents the light bar from turning on unless you want it on with the high beams.
The factory or dealer installed foglights in my path were wired this way, but triggered with the low beams. I didn't like that set up, so moved the trigger to the park lights so I could run the fogs without the headlights, a more desirable setup in heavy snowstorms. At least it did back when we had heavy snowstorms here...
The reason i was trying to go this route mainly was to prevent trying to run wires into the cabin. I liked the resistor idea, but then it would be a lot of guessing buying resistors since i dont know what the required voltage is to trigger the relay. Wiring is by far not my specialty. I also learned there is not a fuse for just the DRL, so i was trying to just cut a wire to disable them but boy is that a whole process. Cut the driver side high wire to the DRL module and all that did was eliminate my driver side high beam, still had running lights, loose my high beam dash indicator, but there was like a 1 second delay and my light bar still worked so something else must still be triggering it with enough power?
Also: soldering between the battery and the fender to get the tiny wires for the DRL is a pain - do not recommend.
PS PS: I do appreciate all the potential solutions, im just not smart enough to implement all of them i was happy enought just to make a working wiring harness, and cutting a wire is very simple, once you know the correct wire
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2 hours ago, XPLORx4 said:
I believe you'll need a resistor and a relay to accomplish your goal. The DRL voltage is usually quite low, somewhere between 3 and 6 volts. (Use a voltmeter to check the DRL voltage.) If you tap into the high beams for your light bar, the DRL voltage is still high enough to trigger the lights. You need to add a resistor between the high beam wire and your automotive relay so that the relay will not trip until it gets enough voltage. The size of the resistor will vary based on the relay's "ON" voltage and the DRL circuit's output voltage.
Thats a really good idea thank you. I was just gonna pull a fuse for DRL and see if that worked, but now i have an option A and B
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20 minutes ago, D_Bomb17 said:
Daytime running lights. They are actually your high beams at half brightness that come on when the headlight switch is off.
Damn. I thought it would be the low beams. Anyway to work around that, and have it trigger with just he high beams and not running lights?
Im currently tapped into the high beam wire if that matters.
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General question for those who know there pathy/QX4 and wiring better than I. So the switch that came with my light bar broke, and i dint want to completely waste it, so i chopped up the harness and connected it directly to my highbeams, so the stock on my steering wheel controls the lights now. My problem is as follows:
Headlights on: light bar off
Head lights on + High beams: Light bar on
Even the momentary switch works.
Head lights off: Light bar on.
Anyone know why with the head lights off the light bar is on? Until i turn the car off, then the light bar is off.
Thank you.
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1 hour ago, hawairish said:
Depending on what you define as affordable, you can typically find 8K-10K winches in the $250-$350 USD range that would likely do fine with short and occasional use. Every major brand tends to have an "import"/"economy" version, and stores like Harbor Freight and Tractor Supply have their own lineup, but I'm not sure if those options exist in CAN.
The general rule is fair, but can't account for every "stuck". Naturally, a 2-ton vehicle can exert far more resistance than that when stuck, and winch ratings are for rolling weight. You should also be aware that a winch's max rating is only applicable for the first wrap of wire on the spool/drum, and each wrap layer lowers the rating; the final wrap rating may be closer to 25%-33% of the winch rating. So if you're in short-proximity pulling scenarios, your winch is working harder than in long-proximity pulls. A snatch block will double your working rating.
Yeah no HF or TS up in canada. I got canadian tire and princess auto, or amazon. Not sure i like/trust any of their winch options. and good to know thank you
This looks okay? looking more into the brand (all prices are CAD)
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Just now, hawairish said:
Yes, that would be a concern for me and I would treat that as reduction in load rating. The more attachment points, the better distribution of force. But going by your description, it sounds like your receiver may also use less hardware than others (mine uses 4 bolts per side). I think your setup will suffice for winch pulls if everything else is still tight, but you'd probably want to take things into consideration if attempting kinetic pulls. Since it sounds like that threaded nut failure may also prevent removal of the bolt and hitch, welding some points to the chassis might add some insurance.
Yeah, i had 4 slots, both tops on driver side failed, but the hitch i bought from an 03 pathy only used 3 bolts aswell.
additionally for my uses any recommendations for an “affordable” winch. And do i want a 9500lb or could i get away with much less since the hitch is only 6000lbs? I know the general rule is 1.5-2x vehicle weight but i feel thats more for completely stuck in mud not as much what im doing?
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7 hours ago, hawairish said:
There's nothing overly problematic about using a winch on a hitch, but the same precautions exist regardless where you mount it. Main thing is to know the weight ratings of your equipment, know the weakest link, and do everything with safety in mind.
For a rear winch setup, the hitch itself—Class III hitches, like the ones commonly found on our trucks—may be the weak link, since they are usually only rated up to 6K. More importantly, that rating is for a straight pull; if winching on an incline, the winch pull could generate tongue weight, for which hitches have a significantly lower rating (maybe 600 lbs). It would likely be a fine setup for the scenarios you described, provided the vehicle is stationary and the pull is as straight-on as possible. That said, you should never drive the vehicle when the winch is operation, nor if there is a load on the line, unless it is to reduce/remove load on the line (and you're confident the movement will not inadvertently create tension, such as if the vehicle rolls back). The dynamic load created can be destructive, possibly deadly.
Other factors:
- Remote wiring can be a little costly (low gauge wires run the full length of the vehicle, plus suitable quick-connects)
- In-vehicle secured storage (presuming you take it on a trip and don't want to leave it in the hitch for any reason; leaving it installed will reduce departure angle)
- Since you mentioned snow/ice pulls, you may also want to carry some chocks. Again, the vehicle should be stationary when pulling. Otherwise, a snatch/kinetic strap/rope is warranted.
My only concern with the hitch is i just recently installed it and on passenger side, all 3 bolts are in and torqued. On driver side only 2 of the bolts are fully to torque as the top ones the inner nut broke so its threaded but not torqued to spec. Do you think that would affect the load rating or safety of use because if i wasn’t using a winch i still planned on using a shackle reciever and strap.
I do know to only winch with the vehicle stationary, and the idea of chocks was a good mention, thank you. All pulls would try to be as straight as possible, and those on an incline would mostly just be to make up for lack of traction, so low resistance.
The cost of wiring was a factor i had not thought of and will have to look more into thank you. The winch its self i would aim for a 10k winch and make sure to have a hitch pin of similar ratings.
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I see a lot of people on here with winches and i was wondering if someone/some of you, could educate me on if im looking at the right thing. While id love a front bumper with a winch its not really practical for my needs or budget. I dont do much serious off roading just some fun at the farm or small trails i can find or whatever i encounter kayaking or camping. But where i think a winch would be handy would be for "towing" and recovery. This is my primary winter vehicle and I have had to pull a friend or 2 out of a snow bank or just some snow/ice they got stuck in. I also have to pull my car out in summer out of my back yard, a mixture max performance summer tires, ice/sno, and inclination means i cannot just simply drive it out.
For these uses of pulling a friend or stranger out of a snowbank/ditch, or pulling my car in small increments out of my yard (and maybe switching to a tow strap to drag it out fully to not put the winch at weird angles (need more education on winches before use of course)) would you recommend using a trailer hitch mounted winch, ofcourse using a proper 2" receiver plate.
Edit: Also in terms of self recovery probably just pull my self back out of snow if i slid too far
Thank you.
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Speaking of DIY ditch lights, heres stock:
vs center light bar and ditch lights
n
I did slightly readjust the lights after this photo too
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Before i installed my DIY ditch light project today, found a small trail - thing that was fun
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Little late to reply but wanted to make sure everything works. New axle is in and all seems to work fine and i figured out what broke on the old axle, well actually nothing broke. Im not sure how it happened exactly but it did. I took pictures i can post them later if requested but essentially if you look at the first photo the shaft fell out of the joint basically (idk what to properly call it). On that shaft is splines that insert into the joint so that it perfectly meshes together. Around half way up the splines is a snap ring. I dont know how it happened, the snap ring was there, in perfect condition. Something happened basically that snap ring got compressed, closed, and let the shaft fall right out.
That is why i couldn't re-insert it because i would've had to decompress the snap ring to insert it. I cut the snap ring and it slid right back in perfectly, so all the force in the world and loosening/undoing components would have done nothing. So if anyone has this problem, just replace the axle.
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Funny I had similar ideas since every scrap yard around me is littered with fords... maybe not a good sign though
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4 hours ago, zakzackzachary said:
Good question and something I never addressed. If you scroll back you'll see the pics I took of the long junkyard Yakima bars I got. The basket is mounted to the factory rails, which on my model are a bit higher than some others. The cross bars then fit underneath and mount straight to the roof rails, the length is long so they extend out enough to mount the kayak. Works well and I can remove the bars if I want, but I've just been leaving them.
Awesome thank you, i must now try to find a set of bars.
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On 7/9/2019 at 8:58 PM, R50_QX4 said:
Sorry to bring up an old forum,
but curious about exactly how the tires would wear if you have a camber problem? I have a 2” sf creation lift running 32s on my 2002 qx4 and nothing else done. Seeing tread wear on the corner of both brand new (KO2s) right front and right rear tires. Haven’t noticed any noticeable camber changes since lift but looks as if I’ve been taking corners too fast and wearing side wall, but I have not been... wondering if I should be buying camber plates and where to get them.
Thanks, Carson.
Not to thread jack just trying to give a quick answer. No camber plates, camber bolts should be fine from my understanding for these vehicles. Camber is a large wear angle for your tire as it determines the size of your contact patch. For reference search: camber gang on google too see exaggerated instances on how negative camber leaves less tire touching the road.
Pretend these slashes are your tires
Neutral camber: I
Negative Camber: /
Postitive Camber: \
With neutral camber your entire tire when driving straight is on the road, but when cornering it shifts to an edge.
With negative camber when driving straight you are riding more on the edge of your tire but flatten out in cornering (on my track car i run negative camber so it grips better while cornering)
Typically when running camber you run a bit "less negative"(or more positive) camber on the driver side to correct for the road crown. Your vehicle will pull to which ever side is less negative.
I do not remember the pros of running positive camber as my main focus has always been sports cars.
Also i hear rock auto is the best place to get the camber bolts
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Out of curiosity how did you mount the kayak J rack carriers and a roof basket? Id love to have both so i could mount lights on my basket, but the main reason i have the SUV out in summer is to kayak.
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4 minutes ago, PathyDude17 said:
The way I have them mounted, they could not work better. Perfect step up to the roof rack or a good middle step to get to the top of the tire. My shorter (5’0”-5’-6”) friends use them to get in and out of the car, at 6’3/4” (that’s the height on my medical documents) they’re a little awkward to use and I usually step over them. Ultra perfect placement in my opinion
Sounds perfect. wanted a more robust solution since my girlfriend really needs the step to mount our kayaks. Added protection also just means can have more fun
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41 minutes ago, PathyDude17 said:
Ya, that price is only for install. The sliders that I bought were the trail gear 67” DIY kit, ran me $250 on amazon
Still work good as a step?
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36 minutes ago, Strato_54 said:
All pathfinders and QX4 take a few clicks to unlock the rear. 1 is driver and then after a few seconds the second click is all the rest so. Its normal
My locks are messed up as in my passenger side only locks and unlocks if you use a key in that door. If i lock all doors from driver side or fob, the passenger remains unlocked. But if i lock from passenger side with key, it will lock all the doors
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6 hours ago, PathyDude17 said:
The welding job was just over $200: his rate is $65 an hour plus materials.
Damn would he make another and ship them
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My 97 QX4 did not come with fobs either but i bought one on Ebay and it works pretty good. The locks on my vehicle are a bit messed up and sometime the fob takes a couple clicks to open the rear doors but overall im happy with it
This is the one i bought i believe: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Replacement-for-Infiniti-97-99-QX4-Mercury-99-02-Villager-Remote-Car-Key-Fob/191892726290?hash=item2cadb2a212:g:rg4AAOSwskha-uFp&vxp=mtr
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I ordered a new axle should be in within a week or 2. Sorry to inconvenience everyone, im just not use to the big SUV life. I have a background more with BMW’s and am much more familliar with those (coupes and such).
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10 hours ago, Astrorami said:
You have previously been told by probably the most studied member on this forum that there are various snap ring thicknesses for the axle. You asking the question about them shows your complete disregard and ignornace. Rather than ask redundant questions do a little bit of work yourself if you really are unsure. Many members here are more than willing to help, but when you are back and forth on something so simple you are just wasting their time. If you truly do not know, use google to search for the FSM and do some homework.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI was well aware there was various thicknesses that had to be specific vehicle. All he said was order from nissan, not, how to know before disassembly which to order. And again i looked at the FSM, doesn’t specifice which thickness is needed that i saw. I assumed the best way to know is to measure after dissassembly but before that i am unsure. Sorry if that troubles you
also seeing as mine wasn’t installed correctly it may not even have the old snap ring in to begin with so besides guess and check i was unsure how to know the specific one to use, unless as i asked it would be tied to the vin.
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Air Lift 1000 leveling air bags
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
Hate to be the one to bring up and old topic but with all the talk of bump stops i just had a question. Does the bags still help if you don't have any bump stops? I have the 1" spacer on the bottom, and all my bump stop broke off before i owned the truck and never replaced them. Or does the bag need to support the vehicle by lifting up on the bump stop?