TroyButler
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Posts posted by TroyButler
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Lift one corner and justn grab the wheel both sides and push with one hand and pull with the other alternating wiggling the wheel. if its ball joint or tie rods you will feel it. ball joints usually more noticeable than tie rods but if you cant decide have someone else do it, and you can put your finger on the ball joint and feel the play directly.
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My old QX4 i replaced the lower ball joints (easy to check if you just lift the vehicle) with NAPA ones, and less than a month later they were bad again. Wouldn't recommend their cheap ones. Only backing out of my drive way or pulling in did i hear the clunk, but had tons of play
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Body lift or the suspension spacers?
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I like the current bulbs i have in my fogs (not sure what they are) but come winter i'll probably pick these up. My pee yellow fogs on my old QX4 were fantastic and these look even brighter
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5 hours ago, KiwiTerrano said:
Just needs some lift now!
I've been heavily contemplating doing the SFCreations body lift, just havent really seen anyone do it or any v8's. the 1.5" i think is the perfect amount of lift just not sure if it will cause an problems or anything. For now im probably just going to run airlift in the rear to keep it leveled with weight in the trunk and stiffen it up a little. Trying to save money and dont want to spend a lot or i would probably just do the ironman lift
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Small update: Got my 265/70/18 Falken Wildpeak AT3W's fitted. The tires look great and ride great thus far, mostly looking forward to see how they perform in winter. They did rub and required some fender liner melting, and cutting of the front mud flaps. (This is on stock suspension)
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On 8/28/2020 at 5:43 AM, KiwiTerrano said:
I'm running 255/85r16 BFG KM2 on mine. The skinny tyre is great for 4wding but does compromise road handling.
The wider 285/75r16 tyre would be better onroad. I also wouldn't recommend the KM2 unless you really want to go 4wding as they're very noisy. KO2 would be a much better compromise, or even a more road biased AT like the AT3.
I wouldn't mind a V8 (couldn't use much more fuel than v6) but they never sold them here.
I love the look of your rig, ideally id want to mount a winch with stock bumper but not really sure of any proven options. Do you feel like your cooling isnt as good with the lights blocking the grilles? that worries me with the v8 since same rad and such. The popular option is the 285's which at highway speeds probably is a better choice, but i decided to go with a 265/70r18, as i wont be doing any real serious off roading just mild and winter is a top priority. Speaking of winter i went with the Falken wildpeak AT3W because i could get a larger size (i wanted a 65 side wall originally) for $500 less than small or equal K02's, and because i heard conflicting reviews on KO2 wet/snow performance. With the v8 on slightly larger tires im currently averaging around 19.3L/100km but ive only done city driving lately. Pretty junk but to be expected, and i expect the AT3W to make it slightly worse.
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8 hours ago, 01Pathmaker said:
Nice new ride, good luck with it. I'm leisurely beginning to look for a clean, low mileage R51 to replace my gradually rotting R50. I'd like to find a V8, as I loved that engine in my Titan, but they seem to be far more rare around here. As far as headlights go, I've had excellent results with replacements from Diode Dynamics, they're a little pricey, but great quality, plug & play and are backed by excellent customer support. Enjoy!
Thank you, I was looking at trucks because i really do enjoy trucks, but just too much rust and too much money. You're not alone on the rarity but that worked out in my favor. I work at a nissan dealer and no one had seen a v8 pathy before. I believe mine was the only one for sale at the time in my province, and it wasn't even advertised as one. It was higher mileage than i wanted if i was going to get a v6 patyh but the price was right and i liked the colour so as i went through the photos i saw the v8 and i jumped at it. But as for the rarity because there was none around here, the used car dealer i got it from had it priced just like a v6 so i feel that saved me a fair bit.
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Sorry for the delay all. Been on sick leave pretty much since around the time i picked this thing up, not fully sure whats going on but i tested COVID negative so thats good still. On to the R51. Here's the photos from when i picked it up, had a good 2 hour drive home when i picked it up which gave some good learning to the overall characteristics of the vehicle and showed some of its problems. On that drive discovered some of the wheels could use a balance but thats fine as i planned on replacing the tires anyways not sure what i want to do for that - Had Cooper ATW's on my QX4 and they were great, now deciding if i want to stick with those or "upgrade" (read as spend more) on falken wildpeaks AT3W or BFG KO2's. And i also learned the AC has a bit of a leak inside the cabin some condensation but theres a tsb for that i saw and just need to buy a little hose. Next day i drove it to work and noticed my rad was leaking. This was actually a good thing to some extent as i could smell coolant when i bought it but they washed the engine bay so i couldnt see where from. I was happy it was leaking at the top seam as then i could throw a brand new rand in and know that my tranny would still be safe for now. Fast forward another couple days and a CEL for P0455 and P0456 together and alternating, just to play it safe i got a new gas cap - didnt help but was cheap and easy - and then replaced the evap canister purge valve with one from rock auto and so far haven't driven a ton since but no light as of yet. I also did some other maintenance items such as a new air filter, rear glass struts, wipers, had the dealer before i picked it up (for free) do a serp belt and front brakes. The last bit of maintenance i did was polishing up the headlights as they've used a bit of help. Oh and the wheels got some bad corrosion ill need to take care of.
Moving on to mods i wouldnt really say i have done anything yet waiting on some money as being on sick leave has delayed some things for now but I saw complaints about they headlights so i decided to try out some new more expensive headlight bulb replacements and went with the Sylvania ZXE's. I wouldnt say in person its a huge difference but there is some improvement - in the photos though you can really see the temperature difference. I have an old light bar and some pod lights ive been considering throwing on but dont want to block the front bumper as im not fully sure as to the v8's cooling capabilities, and have been wanting to do ditch lights but RAGO wasn't the greatest informant if their frontier brackets would work or not. I have not yet ordered the SfCreations body lift as again just waitng on a little bit more money but have beem watching to see if other people are doing it - I think i would be the first v8 to try it and im curious as to how no lower fan shroud would effect anything (if at all), Lastly for a little bit of personalization i did essentially in the toyota world the Raptor light mod and threw some ambers in the grille. Easy to wire up together and mounted with some small zip ties, do power them i wanted to use a fuse tap but couldnt find any locally of the mini ATO's so instead i just tapped into the passenger side corner marker for power and straight to battery for ground.
Big photo dump
Day i got her
Headlights before:
Headlights with the ZXE:
And lastly with the amber's installed:
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Hello all,
Since lock down i decided to use my time to look for a new vehicle, I was mostly looking at trucks because i do want to do some towing in the future, but did enjoy my large suv coming from the QX4. The worst part about the QX4 was the power or lack of it, so i desperately wanted to avoid that again. Basically for towing and not under powering a chassis i needed a full size v8 (like a 5.7 Ram not a 4.7). After 2 months of searching i stumbled upon the holy grail - a fully loaded 2008 V8 Pathfinder that looks to be in near mint condition minus a little but of rust at the front bottom corner of the driver door. I got another 2 hour drive this weekend 1 way to go pick it up and she will be all mine!
My plans for the vehicle are nothing crazy, I saw the ironman lifts on sale but currently out of stock and was deciding on if i really needed that. After driving this one the suspension still felt great so i decided i dont need a full conversion yet and if it fits the V8 I plan to do the 1.5" SFCreations body lift to improve asthetics and maybe a bit more clearance to fit a new bigger set of K02's. Besides tires and the small body lift i may in the future still do a suspension lift, but im considering if i can fit a hidden-type winch in the factory bumper and or throw on some new light bars.
Will post some photos when i get it
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14 hours ago, XPLORx4 said:
Your 4wd system will apply at most 50% torque to the front driveshaft. Because the front differential is open, the wheel with the least traction will get the most torque. In your situation, the drivers wheel probably had lots of traction and the passenger wheel did not. The open diff transferred engine power to the passenger wheel.
what kind of tires do you have?
Yeah I know about how the diffs work, i just assumed it wasn't open in the front for some reason. And because this is primarily my winter vehicle im running Cooper Discoverer AT/W
7 hours ago, Slartibartfast said:^Gotta love those old training films!
An open diff applies equal torque to the left and right wheels, regardless of speed. If a wheel is slipping, the torque it takes to make that wheel slip is all the torque the other wheel on that axle will get, and giving it more gas just spins the slipping wheel faster. The power that two wheels on an open diff axle can put down is limited by the wheel with the least traction.
TL;DR: if one front wheel is spinning and the other isn't, that's normal for an open diff.
Also, don't worry about auto hubs, those were a WD21 thing. Your R50 came with drive flanges, which have no moving parts and should be pretty much bomb-proof.
We had to watch those damn training films in college too. for some reason i just assumed it wasn't an open in the front. But good to know about the hubs thank you
Overall she pulls the cars good just a little to much mud on a bit of an incline and she was slipping. Approached from a different line without the car and made it out and then did a reverse pull when i had better traction further up to finish the job
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52 minutes ago, prmanke1232 said:
Unless you have lockers the truck has open differentials. The tires with less grip spin.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
So in the QX4 is the lock switch basically just to engage constant 4w?
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I was towing some cars out of my backyard today in 4Low and after a bit the ground was real soft and started spinning in some mud. I'm like 75% though that as i was spinning in mud i dont think my driver front wheel was spinning. I replaced my axle the other month so i know thats all good but could it be an auto hub issue?
Im not mistaken that 4Low would be driving all 4 wheels right?
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20 hours ago, PathyGig12 said:
Do you remember the brand?
Ive heard some people have issues with the Cardone ones so I’d like to avoid those. The other option is SurTrack, they seem ok but I haven’t heard much about their longevity or suitability for off-roading. Cardone at least uses thermoplastic boots whereas the Surtracks use neoprene
Correction on my part. I did go with cardone as i was in a rush and could get those on amazon next day in Canada. I will say i believe mine have been problem free but not sure where others have had issues to compare.
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12 minutes ago, PathyGig12 said:
Does anyone know where to get CVs?
I placed an order with MAC auto parts a couple months ago for these ones, but a few days later I received a refund and nothing ever shipped out. They also never emailed me with any sort of explanation, even after I asked them about it. I heard on this forum that these were the best most reliable option, but they don’t seem to be interested in doing business.....
Any ideas on alternatives? My CV boot has been torn for a while now and I need to swap out
I got mine off rockauto
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15 hours ago, Slartibartfast said:
If the engine was running fine, then suddenly wasn't, and adjusting the distributor got it to start again, that suggests that the engine quit running because the timing changed suddenly. If the dizzy was failing, I'd expect inconsistent spark or no spark, not a sudden change in timing. I suspect your timing belt jumped a tooth or two on the crank sprocket, causing the cam sprockets (and the distributor, which is driven off one of the cams) to lag behind the crank. The retarded ignition timing would explain why it died and refused to restart until you adjusted the distributor (correcting its relationship with the crank). The retarded cam timing would explain why it runs like crap under load.
I would set the engine to TDC and check the timing belt (should be 40 teeth between cam sprocket dimples, 43 from driver's cam sprocket to crank sprocket) before running the engine again.I appreciate the input and i have some questions - for learning purposes not to be offensive in anyway.
The timing belt was changed 30k km ago and 2 years ago, what are the odds of it randomly jumping timing while idling?
I believe - not 100% sure but we got it to start by advancing timing as i remember him saying it hated being fully advanced but was good with a bit.
I think as the spark plugs looked like crap and the constant cranking over the couple days and constant engine flooding would ruin the spark plugs even more thus also explaining why it missfired? I know the basics of timing and timing charts but never have had an problems with it and only set timing a handful of times. Would you think it could be fatal for the engine if i just tried replacing the distributor and sparkplugs and took it around the block to see if that solved it, before pulling it further apart to reset the timing?
Ideally I would have a timing gun or pull it apart to check but unfortunately our shop doesnt have one and i only have like half an hour a day to mess with it occasionally with a techs help.
As with the age of these engines very few people i work with a good with them, and thats why i really appreciate the feed back here.
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16 hours ago, Mr_Reverse said:
Possible that there is just not enough pressure. Try clamping off the return hose an see if it will start and run. If it does, then it is likely a fuel pressure problem. That could be a failed regulator and or a weak pump. Getting a pressure test will at least narrow down or eliminate that as part of the problem.
Diagnosis on cars is simply a process of elimination. Made a lot harder when the bloody thing refuses to act up when they bring them to me. Have 2 that refused to act up for me today.
Well good news we got it to start and checked fuel pressure it was all good. We got it to start by messing a bunch with the timing at the distributor so were gonna try replacing it and hope for the best. It idled fine but once you start driving it runs pretty poor. Anything below 20km/h and it probably would die unless i went to neutral and revved it. The spark plugs looked a bit bad when we first looked at it all, but from the constant trying to start and flooding i now have a missfire code so they're prob junk and will be replacing those aswell.
I hope most distributors last longer than 2 years, but i really hope this fixes it.
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4 hours ago, onespiritbrain said:
Hmmm.. with no code I think its leaning toward a fuel issue. I honestly dont know how to troubleshoot a fuel issue. Without googling it I'd say figure out a way to see if the fuel pump is actually sending fuel up front or not. May take the supply line off the fuel rail on the passenger side and hold a rag against it while someone turns the key to the on position. Or maybe you can rent some kind of fuel system test kit from Autozone.
Yeah i know its getting some fuel as i can smell it and i did take off the fuel line up at the motor and as i primed it pissed some out but again just cause some fuel doesnt mean enough pressure..
oddly enough we got it to start once, run for 10 minutes, turned it off and it wouldnt restart.
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10 hours ago, onespiritbrain said:
Is your check engine light on?
No, I checked with a handheld scanner and consult, no codes
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3 hours ago, onespiritbrain said:
Take the distributor cap off and have someone try to crank it. Is the rotor turning?
Yes the rotor is turning.
And i took the cap off, the rotor off, then the black shield piece held in by 2 screws and it all looked clean to me under it
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On 11/12/2019 at 10:35 PM, Mr_Reverse said:
Pull the distributor cap and rotor off. Then remove the metal plate on the bottom of the distributor. It is a dust shield to protect the crank sensor. Look under the disc into the bottom of the distributor. If you see what looks like dust in there, the bearings have failed and the distributor needs replacing. It is a problem I have seen in the 3.3 Pathfinders. Don't know why I haven't seen it in the Frontiers and Xterras with the same engine though.
If the noid light is showing signals for the injectors, then I doubt there is a problem with them and the fuse and relay for them is ok.
i havent got to fully rip it apart but i remember it looking pretty good a couple months ago. I also just checked my receipts from the previous owner. The distributor and spark plug wires was replaced only 2 years and 30k km ago, so i would doubt its that?
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19 hours ago, Mr_Reverse said:
You need 3 things for the engine to run, fuel/air, spark, and compression. You say you have fuel and spark, does the engine crank normally it does it seem to spin easier than normal? Are the fuel injectors firing? Is the spark firing at the right time? Can you smell fuel? It is harder to flood our fuel injected engines than the carbureted ones that the old guys wearing their rose colored glasses say are so wonderful, but can and does still happen. If you are flooded, holding the throttle to the floor while cranking the engine puts the ECU into flood clearing mode where it will shut off the injectors until you release the throttle.
Finally, check all your fuses, you might have one that popped preventing something that is needed from working.
We're assuming I have fuel as i took of the high pressure feed line and primed it for a second and it pissed out. Used a noid light injectors are getting a signal so i assume firing. The spark plugs do look a bit dry though. We pulled out a plug and grounded it and tried starting and it did spark. The engine does seem to crank normally. I do smell fuel., i tried pumping the pedal to start and flooring it. Not sure of any fuses that may effect it? A guy i work with even though he had spark, he says he still needed a new distributor so maybe ill have to go buy a new one?
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Was leaving work, was about to pull out and while waiting it started juddering a ton for a couple seconds then died. She cranks, has spark, and i just filled up the other day and shows over half a tank but no start. tried unplugging the MAF but also no luck and no codes.
help
1997 VG33E QX4
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3 hours ago, XPLORx4 said:
Yes, I have done it. All of the instrument cluster and AC control lights in mine have been converted to white LED (which ends up looking slightly bluish due to the color temperature.) They dim just like the OEM bulbs. I think I got mine at superbrightleds.com. Sorry, it was so long ago that I forgot which bulbs I used, but you will want to choose bulbs that have the greatest number of LEDs mounted omnidirectionally.
Where the AC lights easy to do? my AC controls have 0 lights except for the orange selected light
JR50 to V8 R51
in 2005-2012 R51 Pathfinders
Posted
Been a while since i updated this thread, and have since had a fair shares of ups and downs. For starters i did my passenger rear wheel bearing, while it didnt make any noise it had a ton of play which im told is common for them, but i went with the usual napa part and it went smoothly. i think it took less than half an hour to do. After that since i didnt know all the maintenance history on this vehicle i did the front and rear diff fluids, easy job just tiring pumping in all the fluid but again short and easy. A little after doing this i noticed a rather large problem. When i inspected this suv before purchase i noticed the front diff pinion seal was leaking, but it didnt look that bad. Now that its winter and ive used the auto mode a couple times i noticed it will piss fluid. Tried to take care of that yesterday, ordered the part from napa and went at it. Once i had it all fully apart (but the seal still in place) i realized it was the wrong seal. Returned the part got my $20 back and had to go through the annoying process of putting it all back together and wasting more diff fluid. I looked a bit online and saw a DIY on titan talk where the person had the same issue and the listed part is way too small so it looks like ill have to get a Nissan one from work for x4 the price (with employee discount). Also did an oil change and now a new battery (725 CCA felt the 640 was a bit undersized for the v8) so been spending a lot on maintenance, come the new year ill attempt that pinion seal again and at some point i have a power steering line to do aswell. Oh i also did a rear brake service because on both sides the pins were super seized (needed the torches for 1 pin per side) and was causing very uneven pad wear. From the start i was unhappy with the brakes and was confused seeing people wanting to upgrade to v8 brakes and after fixing mine i will agree they do be good.
As for fun stuff I finally got air lift. I ordered from 4WP and after a month of them not shipping i cancelled my order. It would have cost like 145Cad at the time i think maybe a bit more. I saw them on amazon for $100 and tried to order but no matter where i tried shipping them too it said amazon could not ship it so i assumed it was just a bug and a lost cause. Fast forward a month or 2 and i saw the prices keep dropping and dropping and at one point they were $58. Magically i tried to order them and it actually went through! Was super stoaked for that price and immediately installed. While i did the traditional install of skipping using the T and running individual lines to each bag, I also covered the lines in some plastic wire loom for some added protection. I forgot to take measurements but id say i went from level-ish maybe a bit saggy (I have a DIY drawer system with some weight in the rear) to having some rake so im pretty happy with the results and will be able to tow better in the future. As for ride quality i run around 14PSI and its a bit harsh on some bumps but overall its all good.