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Tomek

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Everything posted by Tomek

  1. Thank you for the detailed response, might be too much of an undertaking
  2. I have a '98 and my fenders are rusted to @!*%. I can only find post facelift replacements. What would I need to make my own facelift happed? -Fenders -Bumper -Grill -Else? Thanks! Tomek
  3. I think I answered my own question... Looks like the headlights and bumper attachment are different. SO if anyone has a link to pre-facelift quarter panels, that would rock my world. That asside I'm looking at a 1999 QX4 which might be rust free. My 3.3L engine and all suspention parts should be able to move over correct?
  4. Hi Guys, do you know if pre and post facelift panels are compatible. I need new quarter panels for my pre face lift (they are rusting out), but all I can find is post face lift panels. If you know anywhere which still has pre-facelift panels available that would rock too! PS - how about inifinity quarter panels? Will they fit? Thanks!
  5. anyone have links to plastic fender flares that will fit R50? Thinking just cutting the @!*% out and riveting on bigger flares. Thx
  6. you can also check my boys at Berts on kingsways. Tell them Tom sent you. http://www.bertsauto.com/
  7. best option would be to bang the ones out of your old shocks I guess and hope they fit the new bushings
  8. No sorry we just scrounged around the shop for some that fit. (looking through old dead shocks basically)
  9. Thanks man! Ya probably not a good idea to rhino underneath. As for the rear quarter panel I guess the existing one would need to be cut out and the new one welded in. That sounds like a nasty big job! Would have to gut the inside the get on that side
  10. and this https://www.noramstore.ca/i-26894075-nissan-pathfinder-infiniti-qx4-97-04-quarter-panel-4-door-driver-side.html anyone know of any plastic ones for rear how would these go on? Rivets?
  11. okay found this for the front.. hope it's plastic! https://www.huntparts.ca/products/fender-front-passenger-side-with-flare-hole-nissan-pathfinder-1999-2004?_pos=3&_sid=bc9e6712f&_ss=r now for the back
  12. Update... drove across the country last summer with a over 500 pounds of load. (moved from Vancouver to Toronto) Have done some med. off roading since. Everything is holding like a charm! Problem was never the 5125s, or the spring height. Problem was definitely the fact the shop use the wrong sleeves in the original 5125 bushings leaving 2mm of play on the pin. This caused one of the original 5125 bushing to blow out. Replacing both bushings with the engergy bushings and correctly fitting sleeves working like a charm. Suspension super happy. Everything feels like new and ready for 10 years of abuse. Cheers!
  13. Hi Guys, I've moved from the west coast to the east. Salt on the roads is already having an effect on the rust situation. Anyone know of a place around Toronto that would cut the rust out, weld up the scars and slap some new flares or trim on there? After words I'll get under there and slap a bunch of rhino liner in to hopefully cover exposed metal from winter road @!*%. Is that a stupid idea? Thoughts on how to battle rust on the east? I'm at 260K and still going strong. Would hate to see the rust eat her up before everything else. We have long roads ahead! Cheers! PS- Maybe we can do a GTA pathy meet up in the spring?
  14. Hi Sorry for the late reply, but I can't be much help. In the end I didn't replace the top bushings as they were fine. The new sleeves came out of another pair of shocks lying around at the shop. I just tried the bolt on a few dead ones till I found the tightest fit.
  15. Hi Guys, thought I'd report back with our findings. We were in the process of putting the energy bushings into the bottom eye holes (of the upside down) 185552 and as is turns out the spacers they originally had in there were about 2mm too big on the inner diameter. I guess they used whatever they could find laying around when putting the shocks in initially. My thoughts are that extra 2mm allowed for too much play and banged the original Bilstein bushing down during our rough play adventures. All is great now with tighter spacers and the new energy bushings. Hope it holds, I have a hunch it will. Will report back to this thread when something breaks again or in a year that it's still holding well. Thanks everyone and be safe! Cheers, Tom
  16. I'm with ya, but just curious, any specific reason? Appreciate the input still learning from you guys!
  17. Copy that makes sense! Probably wore the bushing out when other @!*% was loose / worn. Thought maybe the angle on the shock would be different with lower springs, but as you said, others have had no issues so... Thanks for the $0.02 in these hard economic times hehe. I'll just keep them how they are. Cheers guys!
  18. So I dropped off the bushings with my guys, and discussed maybe cutting the 9447 down. My logic being that guys are using the 9449s (same length but higher tension) with 33-185569 which have 4" more length over the 33-185552! 4" seems like quite allot, so perhaps cutting an inch or so off the 9447 might be a more suitable height for the 33-185552s I have. I know a guy or two here cut their's down and I'll have to scour the threads, but opinions and advise are encouraged! hehe
  19. Roger that! Looking around for bushings apparently the 185552s Upper mount has 5/8 inch hourglass bushing. Will post more specs as I find them. Edit - okay so apparently the Energy Suspension 9.8107G bushing should fit the 5100s. Gonna grab them and report back how it went!
  20. You guys are amazing! (but you already know that haha) Just got off the phone with my mechanic and we decided to replace all four bushings on my existing 185552s. Thinking perhaps the clunking I had in the past just pre maturely wore that bushing out. Since then I've replaced all the other suspension bushings (not noticing the damaged one on the shock as they are new shocks). Now to find some poly bushings and jam them in!
  21. @Zak Looks like you have a post face lift. I wonder if that's a concern with the 185569s on my pre face lift. Looks like they are quite a bit larger than my 185552s.. Obviously no probs with sprigs popping out. Good to know guys, gives me some more options. Much obliged, Cheers! Bilstein 5125 Series Shock Absorber - 33-185569 Collapsed Length (in.): 17.91 Extended Length (in.): 29.7 Travel Length (in.): 11.79 Compression: 700 Rebound: 2550 Lower Mount: 5/8 inch Eye Upper Mount: 5/8 inch Eye Shaft Diameter: 14mm Reservoir: No Finish: Zinc Plated Body Design: 46mm ID Smooth Body (Non-Coilover) Internal Design: Mono tube Boot Included: Yes Bilstein 5100 Series Shock Absorber - 33-185552 Collapsed Length (in.): 15.91 Extended Length (in.): 25.93 Travel Length (IN): 10.02 Lower Mount: Eye 16mm Upper Mount: Eye 16mm Shaft Diameter: 14mm Reservoir: No Finish: Zinc Plated Body Design: 46mm ID Smooth Body (Non-Coilover) Internal Design: Mono tube Boot Included: Yes
  22. Good to know guys, gives me some more options. Much obliged, Cheers!
  23. Ya the rake doesn't bother me much at all but I could go an inch lower in the back when all is loaded. That would still leave me with a bit or rake which is what I like (closer to a factory 1" higher in the back). Also hoping slightly shorter spring will relive pressure on the bushings when extended? Going with the 5165 25-187717 I would need to extend my break lines, so kind-a don't want to go that route. Appreciate the input re 5100's in general. I wonder if some of the clunking I had in the rear end before just prematurely wore that bushing. I'll see if my guy feels like jamming some new bushings in there and cutting the springs at bit. Anyone know if all 5100 bushings are the same size? Are there 3rd party poly options so I can get something stronger? Links would be awesome if anyone has some for bushings! Cheers guys!
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