Exorpmtech

What he said. Sounds like a bad driver at the PCM. Did you ohm the wire from the pcm to the relay?

No pre-runner. Just a truck that'll drive comfortably through the washes and sand of the deserts of Arizona. I'll leave the crazy modding to the pros. I may need new springs in the back, they look pretty saggy but this thing should go everywhere I ask it to with the stock rear limited slip. Btw, My wife says it's purple. In the light, it looks purple. I hope after a wash and wax it goes back to blue! I can't belive it still has clear coat on the paint. I'm having a hard time swallowing 'yeah, $20 on pump 6, yeah the purple truck' I bought a purple truck smfh.

Hey folks. Just picked up another Pathfinder to replace the '89 I sold a couple years ago. This one needs some love. Paid $200, 1996, rust free body and frame, 4x4, manual, clean title, but hey, the AC works. Tranny needs to be gone though, pops out of 1st and 4th, front axles complety shot, rear control arm bushing gone, rack bushings rotten, and needs a front bumper/headlight. Everthing else is in good shape. Was debating on keeping it but it'll make a fantastic desert truck. Off to the junkyard this weekend for a bumper and possible tranny if my tranny guy says this ones too far gone...A few hundred bucks and a day or two on the rack and itll be up again! And my last project I brought back from the dead..

Id suspect a jumped timing belt with those codes and symtoms. Highly unliky both both banks are throwing codes unless it jumped time. What's odd is that you said it seems to be running better. I have seen the crank gear waller out and rotate a few degrees on the keyway of the crank shaft.

The system checks for a change in the tank/evap system vaccum while driving. It has a purge valve that allows the engine to pull vacuum on the system while driving and vent/evap solinoid to close the system allowing it to build negative pressure. You could fool the computer by installing resistors in place of the solinoids but you'd have much more difficult time fooling the vapor pressure sensor that monitors evap/tank pressure. It has to see a rise in vacuum and then a decrease within a specified time constraint.

Just a note to folks: When a shop aligns a vehicle they only touch the bolts that need adjusting. After they compensate the heads whatever specs are out are the ones that get adjusted and torqued. If you installed new essentrics (camber bolts) and only one is out of spec, the tech will only adjust and tighten the ones they adjust. It's not common practice to get under a car and start torquing bolts you didn't loosen unless there is a concern stated. They will not check all the hardware unless you specifically state you just installed camber bolts and left them loose for the alignment.

Noisy pumps are usually caused by two things. Either a bad pump or the system is sucking air, generally the line from the reservoir to the pump is sucking air. If the fluid isn't aerated(full of micro bubbles) then it's probably just a noisy pump, which can happen if you run the system low. As far as the 'shimmy' in the wheel I would check a c few things. Check for a bent wheel or out-of-round tire. You'd need to get it in the air or have a tire place carefully check each wheel on the balancer. From there it could brake rotors but usually you'd notice quite a bit more vibration under braking. The last thing is front wheel bearing loose or very worn out CV shafts will cause a shimmy. Let us know what you find.