mjotrainbrain
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Posts posted by mjotrainbrain
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Tomorrow I'm going to a junkyard to pick up a new spoiler, as somehow my QX4's PO managed to break it in half, and I figure it's about time I get around to fixing it. While I'm there, I'm thinking about grabbing the climate control system out of a Pathfinder or QX4 if one has a system I like. My QX4 has the touch screen mess, complete with broken buttons, making it impossible to turn off and generally difficult to use - very annoying! If I pulled a system out of another truck, could I easily swap it in? Will I also need to grab any wiring? For reference, this is what I hope to put in:
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Shouldn't the 2015 TOTY winner be recognized on the site's homepage? There is a TOTY from 2014 and some TOTM from 2016, but no evidence of 2015 unless you go into the forums! I just thought that it would be nice to recognize Pav.
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Wow, that's a lot of work! Good for you to have that kind of ambition. When you're putting it all back together, make sure the CVs didn't come apart or anything while sitting around not attached to anything. The only time I've had issues with mine is shortly after messing with suspension, so make sure they're OK. Double check them once everything's back together.
Good luck!
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What size did you end up getting? Whatever it is, it looks good!
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Here's some pics from the outing last weekend. It was an event called Wheelin' for a Cure that essentially was meant to be a fun and creative way to raise money for a camp called Special Days Camp for kids with cancer. If you'd like to read more about it, I did a pretty lengthy bit of typing on one of my Instagram posts about it (find me @mjotrainbrain). Now on to the pics!
Staging with the first group to head out. Think the RC (my other hobby) can keep up?
Another picture of the group before heading out. There were a ton of vehicles in attendance! I had the only Infiniti and there was only 2 Toyotas and a Hummer, everything else was a Jeep! Being unique is nice.
The trails were overall pretty easy (used 2wd all day) but it was still a lot of fun and there were a couple spots where the suspension got a work out due to lots of deep holes. There were also a couple long sandy hill climbs that involved some wheel-spin, but not enough to justify 4wd. Besides, spinning all the way up a hill can be fun!
This was our lunch stop. All of the people parked on that side from the Tacoma at the far end (can't really see it) through my Infiniti plus a red JKU parked elsewhere were in group 1. I was a little out-trucked, but I kept up just fine, and in extreme comfort by comparison!
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No problem! Have fun, and remember; no 4wd when unlocked, lol!
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So I've had the OME Medium Duty coils installed for about 3 weeks now, and they've been great!
They ride similar to stock, however they do this while also making the rear end feel tighter (which is excellent!). Also, I now have about 3.5 inches over stock in the rear, meaning that these coils are about 1.5 inches taller than the old ones and the same in rake, exactly what I expected! With this much rear lift, should I be looking into a panhard drop bracket? At this point I'm going to stop messing with the suspension, as I actually quite like where it's at. Of course some day I'm going to have to dig back in to do the front coils and struts and the rear shocks, but it's fine...for now. I hope to have one of my dad's co-workers help me fab a skidplate for the front end fairly soon. I am also hoping to be able to make some kind of a custom missing link, maybe even this upcoming weekend. I was just re-reading CDN_S4's build thread and was inspired when I saw his. It appears to be exactly 1.75 inches wide and a smear under 2 feet long, so that's convenient. Will just a flat piece of steel with a hole at either end work fine, or should I use square tube? How thick do I want, 1/4"? Material suggestions?Once that's been done, I don't know what I want to do next! Here's the options I'm currently considering:
Warn hubs (winter is coming up soon, so they'll probably stay locked for the next 6 months, so maybe wait 'til spring?)
Custom front bumper (a little pricey, but might be worth looking into, especially since the side that's taken the most hits has lost a lot of mounting hardware)
Junkyard stuff (replace sat nav with basic climate control system, maybe rear tire carrier, WD21 transfer skidplate and whatever other cool stuff I can find)
CB radio (but which one?)
Looks like I have another question packed post, sorry guys!
I just want to make sure I'm making the right decisions with my R50. -
So last Thursday, after seeing a few posts here about the idea, I decided to cut 5 two inch holes into my air naked box.
This is actually a pretty cool sounding idea, but couldn't it increase the possibility of water getting in? Where I live we don't have rocks, so mud and water are a common terrain and I would hate to do this if I'm just going to water-log my engine the first time I go out...
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My QX4 has the same 4wd selector as you, and Warn hubs are going to be one of my next upgrades. It will be OK...if you use it right. When the hubs are locked, it will be exactly like stock-take no extra precautions. However, when the hubs are unlocked, do not put it in 4wd, only 2wd. This includes not using the Auto function, as that could engage 4wd, which would of course be bad.
This is easy enough to remember, but if anybody else drives your truck you will have to take care to remind them of this so that they do not accidentally damage it. A way to avoid this being an issue would be to always engage the hubs before somebody else drives it, so that you know there is no way they could accidentally do something wrong.
Happy wrenching!
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You can get them from any Nissan parts dealer. I got mine from courtesyparts.com, but there are plenty others. When I did my project last year, a few sizes were on national backorder or otherwise NLA (er, no longer available). All the part numbers are in the FSM, and the pieces run about $35/ea...not cheap when you generally will swap them in pairs for this project.
Ideally, you don't just add pieces, but instead swap pieces out depending on the configuration and specs of your specific LSD.
Unfortunately, you can't really know what to replace until you know what's in it. The FSM does indicate the specific configuration for your model, but it doesn't tell you the thickness of each plate, since that spec is "adjustable" by using thicker or thinner pieces. It also doesn't have a means to determine what thickness will equate to what breakaway torque...that is very much trial-and-error.
W/D21s had mid-to-high 200 ft-lb breakaway torques, which I've understood as being streetable. The pair I rebuilt ended up and 180 ft-lbs and 170 ft-lbs, but it was relatively easy to hit 300 ft-lbs (I stayed at those lower numbers because I needed to ration my parts and build two similar LSDs). Both have performed quite well.
My take on things:
Don't know how I missed that article in my search for information, thanks! I'm still in the midst of reading it, but it's got some good stuff. Sounds like it will be a little more expensive than I had anticipated though, I may push this back to next spring/summer and do other things this fall/winter.
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Where can you get additional friction plates and discs to do this? I tried looking online with no luck. Do I just buy factory parts from an auto parts store? Can you just add additional friction plates and discs to the stock LSD without changing anything else? Mine doesn't appear to work at all, so I'd like to rebuild it, and I'd like to make it better while I'm at it. How much could I add while keeping it reasonable on the street, specifically without making full-lock parking lot turns impossible? This whole LSD issue is kind of confusing to me, so sorry for all the questions!
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Thanks guys. That's what I was thinking, especially since I've never even heard this isdue discussed before. Now to decide what to upgrade next...
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Yesterday I attended an off-road event which included raffles and so forth after 5 hours of trail rides. It had been an awesome day already, which was made better when I won a $100 certificate to Tom Wood's for a driveshaft! Is this something worth buying? Even with $100 off, I will probably be paying at least $150-200 out of pocket, and I don't know that I can justify that. The only reason I can think of it actually being a worthwhile purchase is to do preventative-maintenance in order to avoid vibration from old age, but I don't even know if that would be an issue yet since my QX4 only has 130,000 miles. The other option is to find a Jeep guy who needs a driveshaft (already have a couple in mind) and see if they'll trade me for it. What do you guys think? Tom Wood's, or try to get some money to use elsewhere on the truck?
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Does anybody know if anything's happened? I would love to know what happened next, specifically if MrJim found those guys and gave them what they deserve...
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That's strange, because I've also heard that 32" is the max. Maybe they fit at ride hight, but will they fit when flexing the suspension?
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I have never owned anything other than my R50, but a question I can come up with that may help is how important are offroad capabilities and other truck-like qualities such as load/towing capacity to you? Also, do you want to stay with a Japanese manufacturer? How old can it be?
Good luck in your search.
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Now that I finally can, how I about I enter myself as well.
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Good news and bad news; again. The good news is that the better OME coils will be arriving on Friday, and will hopefully be installed the following day! The bad news is that my outer passenger-side CV boot clamp came undone again, resulting in a lot of mess.
Luckily the CV doesn't seems to be damaged, so it is being repaired, this time at a shop in hopes to have the job done better than before.There is another issue that I've noticed for a few months (I think it started about when I installed the lift) which involves a noise and a bump coming from the front end. When going through a long turn at full lock (such as when turning around in a driveway) at a later point through the turn there will be a hard clicking noise, only one, and the part that particularly worries me is that you can feel it. I think it could be some CV bind, but then why would it do this so infrequently, and not continually through the entire full-lock turn? Whatever it is, I have noticed no other ill effects, however I have been trying to avoid especially sharp turning maneuvers.
Oh, more bad news, school has started!
This means I have less time to mess around with the QX4, so mods over the next 9 months will be anything but major; I think the biggest things I might do will be Warn hubs and Bilstein shocks; no major disassembly, as having to arrange a ride to school is a pain. -
I have the same spacer set up as you. I got heavy duty coils for a R51 Pathfinder and cut 4" out of them, and although they fit, they gave too much rake (could be solved by cutting more out) but more importantly rode awfully. As much as I too don't want spacers in the rear any more, I am going to try OME medium duty coils (designed for the right Pathfinder generation this time) and the spacers, hopefully that will give a good ride and a nice rake. If you don't need a rake, you could probably do 1 spacer with these coils.
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I thought someone developed a subframe lift for it? I never paid too much attention.
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
The subframe drop only affects the front suspension/differential/etc. It does not affect any other part of the vehicle. Also, a 1" subframe drop would be a ton of effort for very little reward.
I would suggest doing a 3" subframe drop on the front, using stock coils and struts, and a 3" lift in the rear, using OME medium duty coils, 2" spacers, and Bilstein shocks. Honestly, unless your heart is set on 3", 2" is a lot easier to pull off. That would only require 2" spacers front and rear to get it done cheaply.
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Just ordered these:
http://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981486-pathfinder-medium-duty-rear-coils.html
Which should have been what I ordered to begin with rather than fussing around looking for a stiffer option, which is more than I need and rides poorly. Oh well, now I have spare ridiculously beefy coils laying around. You know, just in case. I will probably pair these medium-duty coils with both rear lift spacers to give me a little bit of rake. Hopefully this is the last time messing with rear coils until the inevitable SFD later down the road (or is it trail?).
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You may find these helpful, particularly the second one.
http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/41653-help-with-rear-shocks-for-lift/?hl=shocks
Good luck!
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I just bought 200# of play sand to carry in the trunk. By no means is the ride great, but it helps take the edge off for sure.
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Yeah, I can't imagine those being a comfortable ride considering they're almost 4x the spring rate of OE coils, not to mention for an IRS. But, if you can find an extra 400lbs of cargo, I bet it'll be pretty good in all honesty. Of course, that's not an ideal scenario.
Don't forget you've got a fellow NPORA'r who's selling a set of new coils for quite a bargain...check the For Sale section.
Thanks for the heads up, I'll be sure to check the For Sale section! I toyed with the idea of throwing a bunch of bags of sand in the back, but I would rather just build the truck right. Maybe I'll do that in the meantime, as it looks like my local Home Depot is selling 50lb bags for $4. I bet it would ride a lot better with a big heavy steel bumper and tire carrier! Maybe this thread will see this springs again in the future, after I have some nice bumpers and am ready for an SFD.
removing rear sway bar brackets
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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If you are really concerned about the bolts breaking off, could you just leave the bracket on and remove the upper control arms using a couple of open ended wrenches? It would take a really long time and be a PITA, but it would avoid the possibility of this issue... Maybe if you had a picture of how rusty the area is so we can get a better idea of how much of a risk it would be?