mikeysentra

I just replaced my plugs on my 97 XE with the factory recomended NGK BKR5ES-11's and let me tell you the ones I pulled out were well worn. They showed all of there 60,000 miles (according to records). What a difference. better throttle response, smoother running and hopefully better MPG. best of all no more miss. I also installed a set of NGK Plug wires @ the same time as they were OE and have 132,000 miles on them. you guys are rite the # 6 Plug in the back on the drivers side is a b**** to get at and change.

I Like my Firestone Destination A/T's 31-10.50-15's. they are quiet on the highway and have been good in the Mud, sand and snow. cheap too @ 103 each @ Firestone service centers. just my .02

I had my muffler back system installed for 175 by a local muffler shop with a flow master. I need to make some mods to it though as I dont like the flow master sound that much. spend the money and get a good magnaflow muffler and resonator. that should give you a good deep tone and still be quite on the highway and just tooling around town. that is what I plan to do after I get into my new house.

Mine seems to work, when I am going down a really dusty trail you can see the dirt that collects on the back window being blown off.

I just put 17.8 gallons in my pathy today with 260 miles on the trip and the needle was at the bottom of the E line with still no light. I think that maybee mine isjust burnt out. And that is only 14.44 MPG. I think its time for plugs. I have noticed that it has a slight hesitation and maybee a slight miss under light load. sorry that was off subject. Should my Low fuel light have come on with the guage reading at the bottom of the E line?

I have driven mine to the E line and below but have never had the light come on. The most I have put in mine 97 XE 4x4 is 18.6 gallons. dose an XE have a low fuel warning light? When I turn the key to the on possition and all the lights come on I dont have a low fuel warning that comes on. is that normal?

I think I have found the squeel. It seems to be the front wheel bearings. mainly the Right front that is making all the noise. I had them repacked about 1500 miles ago @ the dealership that I work for. Chevrolet not Nissan. If I where to guess he got them too tight and now they are making noise. I will talk to my service manager tomarow and see what he can do for me.

The pullys are tight. The squeel I am talking about is not from the engine compartment. my belts dont squeek. I am just going to change them as routein maintnance. I think the squeel is coming from under neath the vehicle. I have had the wheel bearings repacked about 2,000 miles ago and after the last squeel when I got home I felt the hubs for excessive heat but they were not hot to the touch. I am suspect the maybee I have a front dust shield that when hot contacts the back of the rotor or somthing like that. But untel I look further into it I wont know.

I have about the same amount of play in mine. I guess I wont worry about them. I have almost 132,000 miles on them though. I have had a intermitant constant squeel above 40 MPH. It only happens after about a 10 mile drive abouve 50 MPH and only when the temp is over 80 degrees outside when it happens it will stop below 40 MPH. I can put the Pathy in neutral @ 55 MPH and the noise is still there I dont think its from the engine but from metal to metal contact somwhere else. has anyone ever had this problem? if so what was the remedy? It is embarrasing and I need it to go away completely. Thanks

I have front to back play in mine with tension from the belts on the pullys. thats what I need to know is if the front to back play is normal or if I need to replace them? Thanks for the help.

anyone think they pop the hood on there pathy and see if there idlers have play in the bearings? You dont have to loosen anything just try to move the pully back and fourth and see if there is play! I would really appriciate it. Thanks

I need to do the belts on my 97 Pathy and have a ? regarding the Idlers. is there suposed to be axial play in them or are mine in need of replacment? If I grab them by hand with belt tension on them I can move the 2 idlers (Alternator and AC belt idler pulley's) back and fourth. the nuts are tight. I think that they are worn and need replaced but dont want to waste money if the bearings in them are suposed to have play in them. but if they are bad I want to replace them asap and do belts at the same time so I dont loose a belt in BFE off roading. Thanks

I got my hitch set up from U-Haul for my 97 R 50. I paid 165 for the wireing harness and hitch with mountin hardware. It took me about an 1.5 hours to install the hitch (It just bolts up no drilling requred and vary easy) and to splice into the taillight harness. everything works fine and and it looks good too. that is what I recomend you do. its a vary easy install.

I got the 31'sinstalled today on the factory steel wheels. They look great really fill the wheel well. I also instaled my Warn manual hubs and a set of front brake pads last night. I went with a firestone destination AT as tirerack rated them great and they were inexpensive. now I need to get the lift but that is going to have to wait tell end of august or early september to build some funds back up so I dont drain the bank account. I will post pics up soon.

OK its time to do the exhaust. I have been waiting and trying to decide what I wanted to do. so here is my plan. I am going it run 2.25 inch tubing from the end of the cat tubes to a Magnaflow 2.25 dual in 2.5 out muffler Part #12258 in the stock location, then 2.5 inch tube to a 2.5 inch in/out magnaflow 6 inch round muffler Part # 12616 and 2.5 out the back in the factory fashion. as for the cost to do this the main muffler is 87.95 and the round muffler for the rear is 59.95. these are from summitracing.com as they are the cheapest place I know of the get magnaflow mufflers. and i think anything over 50.00 is free shipping. so this is my plan. what do you guys think? I am hopeing and will talk to the shop I am going to have do it to make sure they have the flex joints so I dont tear up my manifolds.

Is that with the stock steel wheels or the SE Wheels? I really dont want to have to buy wheels but if I have to I will.

No 31's are the biggest I plan to run on it. I dont take it off road much. so its mainly a highway cruiser and daily driver and I dont want to kill the fuel economy that much. I am kinda hopeing that by doing the manual hubs it will kinda offset the decrease in fuel economy by going to the bigger tires. I am currently getting about 15.5-17 MPG now so If I can keep it in the 14 range around town and not kill the auto trans I will be happy. I will also keep my eye out for a set of SE wheels before I buy tires so I wont have any issues.

So I have a 97 Pathy and want to put 31-10.50-15 BFG AT KO's on it. will these tires clear everything with the stock 6 spoke 15" Steel wheels? if not would they with the SE Alloys? Since I finaly sold my eclipse I am going to start working in stages on the pathy. I am going to do the tires, Warn Hubs, exhaust and the AC Lift, in that order. I just want to get tires first as they are about the 2nd most expensive thing to do next to the lift + I want to get the hubs before I do the lift so I dont have cv joint issues. Is this a good course of attack or am I missing somthing? Thanks,

So do I need the harness too or will my stock 97 harness work for the 2000+ tail lights?

Yeah the more I look the more I find that its not cheap to play with the pathfinder. I will get some angle iron when I do the bushings and the new trailing arm, and reinforce them.

thanks for the info. geez urethane bushings arent as cheap as they were for my Sentra and Eclipse, oh well I guess I need to just do it and not worry about the cost. anyway after doing some more looking under my pathy I seem to have a trailing arm on the right rear that is also slightly bent. I guess I need to make a trip to the wrecking hard and get a used replacement for when I do the bushings.

I have been doing some looking and It is hard finding aftermarket wheels in a 15" size. where can I find desent looking wheels that arent 17" or bigger for my 97 pathfinder? Also where can I find urethane bushings? I have looked @ the obviouse places but cant seem to find them from Energy suspension of prothane! any ideas? I am trying to cure a wobble in the rear of my pathfinder going over bumps on the freeway @ 70. one in perticular can really put an unsettling jerk in the rear of my pathy going over this perticular expansion joint. Thanks

I am planning on in the next month or so doing a catback exhaust on my 97 4 wheeldrive pathy. I am planning on useing magnaflow components as I have used these in the past and love the sound. I dont know howeer if I should go with 2.25 or 2.50 inch tubeing? what are your thoughts? I was thinking 2.25 and useing these 2 magnaflow components PN 12251 and 12615. These are a dual in and single out and a regular 6" round muffler to simulate the stock muffler locations. also dose anybody know where to get the 2 flex joints in the coresponding size to what I want to use? I do not want to put more stress on already fragile exhaust manaflods. any help would be appriciated. Thanks

The redline CV-2 is a high pressure grease. I used it on my 944 Porshe's wheelbearings and the wheelbearings were great when I sold it. If I cant get the propper tool I think I will take it to the Stealership. I need to ask the tech's @ work if they can do it before I take it to the Nissan dealer as I work for a Chevy, Pontiac, Cadilac, Mercedes, Mazda, Subaru dealership. I wish we sold Nissan too as I would love to have a New Nismo Frontier parked next to the pathfinder in the driveway, and service would be considerably cheaper too.

I got the inner seals for both front hubs today, also a bearing packer from Baxster auto parts (it a chep 7.00 plastic packer) but should work. I will probably do this next weekend or the weekend after. I am planing on useing Redline CV-2 cv joint/ wheelbearing grease. is this ok or should I use somthing different? also I did some looking around and cant seem to find the right 2 pronged tool for tightening the bearings. where can I get one? After driving the pathfinder around after I spent 3 hours with the pressure washer cleaining the undercarrage It seems that I did not hurt my pathfinder by running it hard on the trails last night. I get so paranoid about hurting this thing but it seems to just take it and ask for more. I love this rig. thanks for the advise