[Axletech 4000]

put a V8 on your pathy

 

[Strut rod bushing]

Thanks again fellas and for that link Fast

 

B howve you been buddy? Hope all is well on your end

 

The poping noise isnt too loud but it bothers the heck out of me and now I hear squeeking noise. I hope that bushing is the culprit. I hear the poping when I hit consecutive bump but running over a single bump nothing..Ill soon find out after I replace the bushing. It shouldnt be so hard on mine coz looking at the rod end and threads where the big nut goes theres no rust but Ive been soaking it with pb just in case

Im going to have to get it a rugged rocks, I know its cheap enough but does he charge shipping or any discount for us? I can get a set of Moog or ES on the bay for $15 shipped

[Strut rod bushing]

Yep, a 15/16 or 24 mm wrench and lots of muscle haha. I used the moog bushing kit as well. The one I got came with new washers as well as the sleeves.

for sure ..lols .. I can easily get those 2 nuts loose with a breaker bar but that 24MM nut I have not tried yet. I just tried to fit my wrench on there and the truck needs to be jacked up coz the wrench is hitting ground , once I get it jacked up higher just need some leg muscle to push the wrench away with my foot to loosen it

I appreciate all your input fellas and fior the quick reply

[Strut rod bushing]

Did you guys replaced your bushing because it was making that poping sound? Mine does and it was making that poping sound before then I replaced my lower and upper ball joint , re torqued those 2 nuts facing towards the front by the upper a arms and it went away for a month then Ive been driving my pathy on some rough pot hole infested road and that poping sound came back. I checked everything and the only thing I could think of now is the control rod bushing

I hear that poping noise before but didnt feel it under my foot but this time I did thats what led me to beleive my strut rod bushing is shot plus when I checked it itts off centered also

[Strut rod bushing]

yeah I was trying to get the shortest socket I got on that rear nut Thanks for the tip brotha

[Strut rod bushing]

Thanks for the quick reply fellas.Im going to get both brand. I might as well replace the other set on my other pathy since after doing an inspection it looks to be dry rotting and off centered

 

Any tips on how to replace em? will the lower control arm get pushed down soon as I take those 2 16MM ( I think) bolts ? Probably need to soak them nuts and bolts with pb also

[Strut rod bushing]

does anyone have any recommended brand for a strut rod bushing ? Im thinking MOOG on ebay but if you guys have used a better brand please let me know

 

Input is greatly appreciated fellas

[Headlight issue]

anyone has any issues with lights coming on without the switch being turned on? The other night the neighbor knocked at my door and told me my headlight is on and when I came out the right side headlight is dimly lit (battery is almost drained) this is the second time that its happened

[CV boots won't hold up]

glad I clicked on this..I was about to head on out to napa and get some stock boots

[another freakin leak]

You gots a ways to go yet. you need to drain the radiator fluid out of your engine block so when you remove the lower intake you don't dump a bunch of silicate rich radiator fluid down your intake valves into your cylinders.

The big problem with this is that the silicone gets into your oil degrades your bearings and ultimately vaporizes and fouls your o2 sensors and your cats.

The knock sensor is about 4 inches from the rear of the engine block.

Never thought of draining the fluid on the block . I know its on both sides oof the block down below. Do i have to drain the rad coolant also?

 

I did some search on here about knock sensor and most of the members that replaced theirs complained of losing power. I have not lost any power its just that annoying knock that comes and goes

 

now you mentioned that the knock sensor is 4 inches from the rear of the engine block , how can some members pull it out without having to remove the lower intake? i dont see any openings anywhere to see whats below that lower intake,maybe I have to look harder

 

Thanks guys. Im hitting the sack and work on the pathy early in the morning

[another freakin leak]

The knock sensor is under the intake, yes. Right on the top of the engine block. You can probably feel it if you wiggle your hand in there from the back now (follow the wire...).

Thanks bud.. Im going to try and find the wire tomorrow but if I cant get to it like others do Ill just pull the intake. When disconnecting the fuel rails do I have to watch for anything like springs popping out or the ends of those injectors are just sitted inside the intake holes with o rings?

[another freakin leak]

Ok, it sounds like maybe you have a couple different issues and that the oil leak is a separate problem.

 

Presumably you O2 sensor code is a problem with your O2 sensor. I would replace it. What I was trying to say about the knock sensor code, was that, if you get engine knock for some reason, you might trigger the knock sensor code? I'm not sure exactly how that code works. Especially since you are talking about a knocking sound.... you might want to think about it or something before replacing the sensor....

 

Especially since it is a pain. I would remove the upper plenum to do it, yes. If you then remove the lower intake you will be able to see the sensor right there, but removing the intake is annoying. Some people successfully reach underneath and do it by feel. Perhaps it is even possible to do with the upper plenum still on...

Spoke with a local nissan tech here also and was told 3 things thats whats making it knock first was a bad 02 sensor which is already determined , bad gas and bad sensor

 

For some reason I have the itching to take my plenum off and thinking the knock sensor was underneath there but I was wrong..Is it underneath the intake?

 

This is how far I got

 

[another freakin leak]

The thing is, you said you heard a ticking sound when you first had the problem... this wouldn't happen to the lifters unless there was a lack of oil pressure. Which would only happen due to a leak if you lost almost all your oil. But if you checked your oil and you didn't lose much... well, then it is confusing.

 

The knock sensor is underneath the lower intake manifold. It might not actually be defective... other problems can sometimes trigger it...

 

 

It was more of a tapping or knocking ..It didnt sound like the ticking we hear when theres a manifold leak or when we first start our motor and goes away after a few seconds

 

When I checked my oil after I installed the oil sending unit it was 3/4 full so I filled it back up.

 

am I going to need to take the plenum out to get to the knoch sensor? The error codes on the ECU shows 33 and 34 though so its gotta be the knock sensor and 02 sensor. I even erased the stored error codes on the ECU and did it like 3 time to make sure Im getting the correct reading

 

now to get me motivated I watch this

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKO-tZGuFDg&feature=related

[another freakin leak]

It mustve leaked a half quart yesterday from what I can tell so it shouldnt do any damage I hope but just got done checking the ecu for codes and I have a 33 and 34

33= heated oxygen sensor and 34= knock sensor. Ive seen a write up on this before but now cant find it. If I remember correctly the top plenum has to be taken off. If it is I guess itll be a good time to replace that #6 plug also

[another freakin leak]

guys thanks for the quick reply and input..It was the oil sending unit. It was late last night when I started tracing where the leaks at and swear I didnt find any trace by the oil filter and that unit. This morning I started tracing the leak again but as what k9 said I wiped everything and fired it up, waited a few minutes and there it was oil was just coming out from the oil sending unit dripping down on the passenger side ..went and got a new unit and installed and no more drips

now another problem arghhhh..when I first started it it has that ticking noise or maybe I should say tapping noise. I let it warn up and that tapping noise comes and goes..funny thing is I pulled up next to a pathy at the post office with the guy sitting inside with his motor running and heard the same tapping on his motor

 

Now im going to do a diagnostic test in a few here...Could this tapping be the fuel injectors gone bad?Like I said it comes and goes.Itll be loud the first time I start the rig then itll go away,took it for a test drive and theres times that that tapping goes louder as I rev up the motor from a full stop and itll go away and theres times that it wont... Ive replaced injectors before on this same rig 4 years ago and cant remember if that was that loud tapping sound

 

I sure appreciate all your input and guide guys. Id be completely lost without your advices

[another freakin leak]

if it were a rear seal, the dripping would be out of the bell housing. If your oil filter adapter and sending unit are dry, the leak is most likely either your rear seal or the oil pan gasket itself. Being that close to the exhaust, it thermally cycles quite a bit. Check your head cover gasket though. I have seen those leak and run down the block. Last time I had to track down a leak, I got under there and wiped EVERYTHING down with rags and paper towels. Then run to temp while sitting since driving tends to fling droplets all over the place and it becomes difficult to tell what is leaking. If you get to temp and do not see active leaking, let it cool and systematically wipe areas with a paper towel looking for any fresh oil evidence... head covers, oil pan, under the starter, bell housing, block under the sender unit, etc.

Thanks bud ..Ill be checking for those areas...getting ready to put on my coveralls now and keep you guys posted. If it was the rear seal does it mean I have to drop the transmission right?

[another freakin leak]

well guys it must be my month to spend some time with 2 of my pathy and the hardbody. Started with the hardbody with a blown torque converter..got that fixed then the 94 pathy developed a leak on the exhaust manifold..got that fixed also ...after finishing installing a new manifold gasket I slid underneath the trucks passenger sode to tighten the 3 nuts for the manifold to cross pipe then i discovered that my transmisson oil pan has a leak on it...I figured heck id tighten the 10MM bolts and it should stop...NOT! ..it made the leak worst so i ended up replacing the gasket..oh what a pain it was. i was about to grab a sawzall and cut the damn pipe blocking the front end of the pan but I checked on here and found one of filthy lurkers post on replacing transmisson pan gasket its still a pain in the a getting that pan out ..whoever replaced the pipe that goes across the oil pan must be a rookie ..that pipe was issing the bottom of the pan well as usual afet 8 hours i got it done but anothe problem arise..this time with my 93 black pathy

on the way home from sears after pickin up a 10MM swivel socket I noticed a very slight tivking noise and when I finally made it to the carport that ticking got louder and I can smeel burnt oil so I immidiately shut it off and when I looked underneath the truck oil was leaking heavily on the passenger side. At first I thought my filter adapter for my dual filter kit came loose or my oil sending unit but theres no trace of oil on those 2 spots. I crawled underneath and found the bottom of my oil pan and on the side (passenger side) was just drenched with oil

now the question is what would cause such a heavy leak like that? Is it my oil pan gasket? Could it be the rear oil seal?

any input is again appreciated fellas

[broken stud dilemma]

Thanks for the input guys.after a close examination of my screw up I discovered that the hole for the easy out on the broken stud wasnt centered so everytime I try to twist is counterclockwise the easy out is grabbing the threaded part of the engine block too , i guess i was just so tired yesterday when i started working on it. I usually do this kind of projects real eraly in the morning.

Well I didnt let it win . I went ahead and did the helio coil route

Heres a few pics fellas

With this arsenal on hand I better win this battle lol

 

 

 

This wasnt so bad after all. one tool that made things a heck of a lot easier is a swivel socket, even on a non lifted pathy the swivel socket works awesome. I used to use swivel joints before. If anyone is doing their manifold project I suggest investing on swivel socket and a craftsman easy out. by the way the 2 broken stud was on the passenger side closest to the firewall..On the drivers side I have 4 broken stud but the craftsman easy out it was a breeze pulling them out.

 

Keith I was about to call you yesterday but couldnt find my darn phone

 

B I got your headlight connectors a 4 spindle bolts..Sorry bud those are the only things i could grab at the time.Got to the jy late and while my buddy was trying to yank the torque converter out i was pulling spindle nuts out..by the way the transmission problem i have wasnt the transmission, it was the torque converter

[broken stud dilemma]

ok guys ive done the broken stud removal 3 times already (probably a total of 8 broken studs in 3 diffrent pathy)and all with success but this time the stud just wont come out and i ended up making the center hole on the bolt bigger and bigger because the easy out is just chewing the heck out of the broken bolt but wont come out

now the center hole is so big its almost the size of the hole where the bolt threads to. I think I stripped the threaded on the engine block

Has anyone used heli coil? Im scared to drill any deeper and hit the water jacket

 

any suggestions guys

[XTERRA to WD21]

Man Im glad I visited this post..Learned something new again...Thanks guys

Only drawback is finding an xterra at my local pull and save

by the way what year xterras is interchangeable guys?

[Transmission or Transfer case not working]

got your list B and ill try ok bud

 

Fat chance on the xterra roofrack though

 

1999 R50 sunroof glass with good seals.

Xterra roof rack, early models only.

WD21 rubber window seals for the windshield and rear side windows.

WD21 headlight wiring plugs.

WD21 front corner lights.

How many spindle nuts do you need bud?

[Transmission or Transfer case not working]

pathfinder's were plagued with bad transmissions. most notably failing around the 170-200k mile mark. Are you sure the transmission functioned in the pathfinder? if not, it's very possible, and likely, that the transmission is bad.

no way of telling on this one bud..We pulled it from a junkyard so you might be right but after talking to that transmission guy he said he has never worked on a pathy tranny that has no forward and reverse.

[Transmission or Transfer case not working]

Wassup B..been a long time..hope all is well on your end

 

anyhow I did some research and also called a local transmission guru here and was told that the torque converter is his guess..well Im pulling the tranny out anyways so im going to try and replace that converter and cross my fingers .will keep you guys posted

 

oh as far as shifting into gears I can feel some movement on the transmission

 

headin to the jy again tomorrow ..need anything while Im out there B? nothing big though

[Transmission or Transfer case not working]

Hey guys im working on the wifes 92 hardbody and changed the transmission and transfer case which we pulled off of a 95 pathfinder. finished it up and no movement

 

Wouldnt it atleast have forward or reverse if the transmission is bad? Also on the transfer case I used the same oil that I used on the transmission which is dexron 3

 

Could it be a bad t-case or did I use the wrong oil

 

Any input is greatly appreciated

 

Thanks fellas

[Transmission and differential]

is there anything wrong with the hardbody's transfer case? I'd just split them and reuse the HB case.

Its not quite shifting right anymore so I figured might as well replace them both