micahfelker
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Posts posted by micahfelker
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Random question, why do you have a high lift if you don't have sliders?
Your rig looks good man. Another thing you can do to get the roof basket to sit lower is get the crossbars from a pre facelift model from a pick n pull. I think someone bent their roof with it bolted right to the rails when the body flexed
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You'll also probably have to paint it black since even the non paint matched post-facelift ones had more of a gray secondary color than the black on the pre facelift model, unless of course you swapped the front clip.
I don't see the point to this if you have the whole post facelift car though. Just drive both of them haha
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I know the rear bumper (both the metal part and the plastic cover) will work, I've seen it done. It lines up perfectly fine and uses all the same mounting points. It may look a little weird on a pre-facelift rig at first since it is a bit thicker and more bloated looking, but it will work.
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As far as sliders go, it'll be way cheaper to either buy universal 67" ones or get them custom made at a fabrication shop than to get the rocky road ones. You're looking at around $200 instead of $500.
Getting a bumper custom made at a fabricator generally costs around $500 per bumper, but can be a little more or less depending on what you want (stinger, winch mount, recovery hooks, etc) and if you go with a tube bumper or a plate bumper.
Just do a quick Google search on local fabricators in your area, and give a couple places a call and tell them what you're looking for. If you do this, you could get both bumpers and sliders all done at the same time and maybe get a little bit of a deal if you're lucky!
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You've never had a problem with KYB until now... lol.
They're struts are fantastic but if I were you I would return those mounts and buy a genuine part before you put those on, or you are going to have problems.
I promise you that you'll be glad you did in the future when you don't have to pull apart your strut assembly again to replace them.
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If you do decide to put a dizzy in make sure it's authentic OEM Nissan DIZZY. Aftermarket dizzys will not work. The electronics in them are cheap. If I'm not mistaken a new Nissan dizzy will set you back around 300$ to 500$ Good luck!
Mine was $50 on Amazon. It was the same one I got years back, and it's worked perfectly fine up until this incident. The new one fixed all the issues completely, but I guess it makes sense why it went bad after only a few years. Hopefully it lasts awhile longer this time haha
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Micah, I see you got to that Taco Bell after all! : )
Is Alex on NPORA?
Safe Drive back to Dillon!
Yeah haha, and thank you!
It rained pretty much the whole drive but my car had no problems at all and I even got pretty good gas mileage!
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Who owns the black le? I’d love for my PF to look like that
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Alex does, I think his username is Pathy_02, but he's not really ever on here.
He's got OME HD springs up front and MD spring in back if I remember correctly.
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Had an awesome time hanging out with you all, as usual!
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Well it fired up perfectly yesterday and did great on my test drive. It seems fine but I'm still nervous. I guess we'll see on the 600 mile trip back to Montana tomorrow!
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Unfortunately I think the only way to do so would be to replace the entire rear window, since the defroster wires are a part of the window pretty much.
I could be wrong though, but based off of what it looks like on my rig and the ones I've taken apart at junk yards. I don't think there's any way to separate the wires from the glass.
One thing you could try is get another rear window at pick n pull and hook up the wires and everything and see if it works on yours. Not ideal, but may be worth a try.
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With the front hubs unlocked, I used to get between 20-22 on the freeway. Around town I get probably 13-17 depending on the day and how much stop and go there is. I'd like to have 6 gears to to row through, I think around 2700-3000 rpm at 75 might actually yield around 23-24 consistently on long trips. I know my mpg at 65 is significantly better than at 75 in 5th gear.
I'm jealous of you mileage man, that's not even close to my fuel economy and I cruise around that range in 5th at 75 due to my tires. I have the 4.36 gears, but no manual hubs. Best tank I've ever gotten was 18, which was entirely on the highway going through Nevada on my way from California to Montana. I get anywhere from 14-16 usually.
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I checked my codes and noticed one for an ignition coil, which is built into the distributor. I have a new one arriving today, hopefully it fixes the problem! I'm also gonna change out my fuel filter since my car matches all the symptoms for that anyway and it needs to be replaced. Maybe not related directly to the problem but should help my rig run better. After checking the codes it's probably not the IACV since none of them mention it. All my fuses are in good shape, except I found my rear cigarette outlet fuse was burnt out. My engine may not work but at least my outlet does now! lol
Anyway, thank you so much for the help man. Hopefully the new parts will take care of my issues.
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Where is the idle air control valve located on our rigs? Both times it died I had the wipers, fan, defroster, radio, etc on plus my phone charging. Maybe when the rpm is low enough it isn't adjusting for the extra load and kills the car because it can't keep up. If I could find it I could clean it out and see if that helps
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The oil light flickering when trying to start is probably because the engine's not spinning fast enough to make oil pressure. If it's making pressure when you do get it running, I wouldn't worry about that.
If it runs fine the rest of the time, and doesn't act up while you're accelerating or driving at speed, I doubt it's a fuel issue. My understanding is that the dizzy usually acts up when warm. Honestly this sounds a bit like the idle air issue I had with mine recently. Mine was idling stupid low, stalling when stopped, stalling when rolling slow with my foot off the gas, sometimes stalling when I put it in gear. I ended up scraping a little surface oxidation off of the pins of one of the idle components with a pocket screwdriver, bending the female plug end just a little so it would grab better, and the problem went away. Check the electrical connections for your idle equipment.
Good luck and let us know how the drive goes!
Thanks for the reply and information man! I really appreciate it.
Basically this pin thing is resting on what's underneath it
Before these two come into contact
Is that how it's supposed to be? I'm sad to admit I'm not super familiar with everything engine-wise. This is my first car and although I've had it awhile it's been very reliable and all I've had to replace was the distributor. What could I try that may help?
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Going to lift the weekend after this. Wondering if there are any tips for installing these springs such as what to look out for and what needs out of the way. I do have a mechanic helping me but he probably has never put Land Rover front springs on a 1996 Nissan Pathfinder rear before. I am also putting Bilstein 5125s on the back and know there are a few tricks for those.
Tips and hints for the front would also be helpful. (KYB with 1 1/2" spacer for a 2" lift on front.) Do have Camber bolts.
One thing I am getting mixed messages on is torque. "Flurry" give 29 ft lbs much lower than Nissan Specs. and so on. Torque for Camber bolts would be helpful also.
I Do not want to highjack this post and will start a build thread of my own, just had those thoughts on my mind.
Thanks
For the rear springs you'll have to disconnect your shocks and panhard bar and let the axle droop all the way and you can pop the stock coils right out and wedge the new ones in with a bit of leverage (having a friend to help is nice). Shocks are easy, just line up the holes and slide them on. Then tighten everything up, throw the panhard rod back on, reconnect the diff breather tube, throw the wheels back on and you're good to go.
The front is a royal pain to do. First, remove the strut from the car which is pretty easy, just take out the camber bolts and slide the abs and brake lines off the strut, then remove the top 3 bolts and pull 'er on out! Before you take everything out you'll need to go get a spring compressor. O'Riley's lets you borrow one for free. You'll need to compress your stock coil until it separates from the top hat, then you can undo the top bolt underneath the rubber grommet that hold everything together, slide off the top hat, and slide the coil out. When you remove the spring compressors, do it evenly from side to side, otherwise the spring can blow out and bend the compressor and seriously injure you.
The next step is to compress the new coil, which is the worst part. Try to get the coils of the spring as close to touching as you possibly can, and then try to get the top hat assembly back on. There is a flattened part of the threaded top of the strut and a matching flat spot in the hole on the top hat, make sure they line up before you force it on so you don't strip the threading like I did my first time. Again, this is way easier with a friend since you really have to force that top hat on with the new stiffer spring in there that won't compress as much as easily. When I did it I had my friend hold the top hat down while I threaded the nut on. Once it's fully threaded on, it's safe to remove the spring compressors. You'll have to turn the top so that the arrow/notch thing is facing the right way. Once the strut is assembled you can throw in back in the rig. The camber bolts need to be oriented a specific way which I kinda forget, I know Xplorx4 knows.
As far as torque spec goes, just do it the old german way "gudentite" (good and tight) lol
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Also I forgot to mention when the car is trying to fire but not quite getting there the oil light flickers, but I've checked multiple times and my oil is completely full
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Hey guys! I need your help, and fast! I took a trip to Washington and ever since I got here my car has had trouble starting at times (it never did this in Montana). It'll turn over and then sorta fire but then die, but it usually starts perfectly fine the second or 3rd time. Other times it starts perfectly fine from the get-go. It's both had trouble and started fine on different occasions regardless of wether the engine is cold or not. Today after lunch, my car turned over for a super long time before it finally started. Then, driving home, I stopped at a stop light and after sitting for a few seconds the rpm suddenly dropped dangerously low (3-400rpm), but then it caught itself and continued idling. A few second later the same thing happened but it got too low and died. It fired right up perfectly fine immediately after, and my check engine light had turned OFF. That's right. Off. It was on before but it went away.
Anyway, I need to drive home to Montana before class on Monday, and I'd really like to make it all the way there in one piece. Does anyone have any ideas of what might be going wrong? I'm thinking either the engine isn't getting spark occasionally, or isn't getting enough gas due to a failing fuel pump or a clogged filter or something. It's more likely the spark though, since when it won't start I can smell gas, so it could be the distributor going bad or something like that. It also seems like it starts way easier when I don't already have my lights on, phone charging, music playing etc, so it could have something to do with the battery or alternator, but that doesn't explain dying at the stop light. I just put some seafoam in the gas tank to hopefully help clean out anything that may be stuck in anywhere the fuel comes in contact with, but I have a feeling it isn't gonna do much good.
If you guys have any info or ideas or suggestions at all please let me know! I appreciate it greatly.
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too many datsuns...
No such thing as too many! (;
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Yeah I was thinking about just trying to install with the bolts upside down, but tightening that inner bolt without a good access point didn't cross my mind. I honestly really still don't like the idea of using spacers anyway, they seem like the cheap and easy way out, and that's not something I really want to do with my rig.
The more I think of it, the more I realize that the use of spacers would do absolutely nothing to help my performance on or off road, and would probably be reducing both on and off road drivability and reliability. For something that the sole purpose of it is purely aesthetic (making the car look more level) and actually inhibits my rig from its full potential, it really isn't something I want on my Pathy, or to spend my time and money on right now haha
The more I drive it and the more I look at it, the more I really love how it sits right now. Like I was saying earlier, I do think our r50's look good with a bit of frontward rake. After all, that's how it was from the factory.
Moving back to the original topic (sorry for the thread jack), I'm loving these new rear springs guys. They ride and handle SO WELL. The spring rate is perfect. Firmer and more sturdy than factory, but not harsh or bouncy at all. With my old worn out stock springs and shocks, my death wobble was getting pretty bad, which is mostly the fault of my trailing arm bushings, but heavily amplified by the worn out suspension. With the new setup of LR coils and OME shocks, the wobble has gotten so much better. My mom was riding with me earlier today to meet my dad for lunch, and she didn't even notice it when I asked if she felt it, even though I could a tiny bit. Now when I go over speed bumps I can just glide right over them without the back end slamming down (no matter how slow I go) and bouncing after. The ride goes PERFECTLY with the HD OME coils up front. I'm still amazed at how much better it handles corners, bumps, and even just flat ground. I feel so much more confident in the rear end now than I did before, and it looks fantastic. I haven't had the opportunity to test them off road quite yet, but that time will come very soon. I definitely recommend this route for rear springs to every single person reading this, although if you're pairing it with a 2" lift in the front I would probably go for a shorter or lower SR option of the LR springs. If anybody has any questions or requests I'd be happy to answer!
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When my cam sensor went bad it would kill the car and then have trouble starting afterwards, but I knew it was the cam sensor because it threw a code. Although it is a possibility, think if it was something like that it would probably be something you could see on an obd scanner. If it's your last resort you could try putting a new one in, it isn't super expensive and it only takes about half an hour to put in, you just have to make sure the needle is pointed exactly the same way as the old one you took out when you put the new one in.
Hopefully that's somewhat helpful!
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I run a 1" spacer with my OME springs no issue. Of course mine are compressed more from the weight of the bumper, but it shouldn't be an issue anyways, since at full droop the CV's will still be at less angle than they are with people who run 2" spacers.
That's actually a really good point that I totally didn't think of. My cv's are actually pretty level right now surprisingly, especially compared to some I've seen. The main setback is still that I hate taking apart the strut. I wish you could just slide a spacer on top of the strut assembly without having to undo everything to put longer bolts in. I might just wait it out and get used to how it is so that I don't need to do all that again. Three times has been more than enough already haha
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Kent, to answer your question which I didn't see before, I currently only have the OME springs up front. Like I said though I'm really thinking about going for it to take off an inch or so of the rake, but I'm sort of concerned about the angle of the cv axles. I know people have run a 1" spacer on top of AC springs before, which seem to be way taller than mine to begin with but I'm still on the fence. What do you guys think?
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Thank you bro! It goes in between looking good and looking too raked depending on how the car is parked haha, I'm considering adding a 1.5" spacer to level it out a little bit more. I really hate spacers but it might be worth it to not lean forward quite as much.
MY BUILD
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
I can't see the pictures with photobucket.
Which is weird since I have the extension that should let me see them