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herotrooper

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Posts posted by herotrooper

  1. Hey everyone, I can't remember where, but I couldve sworn I've read that the R50's can hve alternator upgrades from other Nissans (Quest pops into my head) and also can upgrade the radiator to a supercharged Xterra rad, as it's thicker. Maybe I read it over on NICOclub... maybe I'm crazy? Anyone have any insight to these? Alternator possibly only on the VG33 engine?

  2. The 6 piece kit is going to be the winner here. 

     

    IIRC, the “Death Wobble” is usually cause by bad bushings within the trailing arms. Was able to fix mine on my old truck by just replacing the upper, but both should be done. Poly bushings are great and all, but if you don’t think it’s worth your time and you see some rusty bits, probably better off just replacing the parts. 

     

    4x4parts.com has a bolt kit for $47 for the rear trailing arms. The OEM ones can be a real pain so it’s definitely a good idea to have em. 

    • Like 1
  3. 14 hours ago, TowndawgR50 said:

    Could always grab a Nissan OEM option Momo steering wheel. They're equipped with airbags too.

    I worked a deal out with @ferrariowner123 for his unit and its a pretty slick upgrade, but you will need to relocate cruise control and stereo functions to the dashboard or setup a wheel mounted system 

     

    Have any pics of this? Pretty interested. 

  4. 1 hour ago, mjotrainbrain said:

     

    Absolutely yes. The air box connects to the fender and on the other side has some tubes that go down a bit. I don't know how much of an issue it is with the stock bumper cover and wheel well liners intact, but if you get a custom bumper, you'll no longer have need for the front inner wheel well liners, and then the intake will be exposed and can easily take in water during a crossing - I know unfortunately.

     

    If you don't have the cash for a snorkel and want something better than stock you can eliminate the piping beneath the airbox and block off the hole in the bottom of the air box. Then cut a ~4" diameter hole in the top of the airbox and cover with some kind of mesh/expanded metal to keep large debris out. Now you'll have to be in water up to the hood to have an issue.

     

    I really don’t want to hijack this thread, but could you message me and explain the whole “remove bottom portion of piping and cut hole” or point me in the direction of another thread that has this info? Thanks. 

     

    *is this the Tacoma airbox mod?*

  5. Oooooo boy. Might have to put my welding skills to the test this winter. 

     

    I’ve been wanting sliders since I pitched my factory mammoth steps, and these look wicked!

     

    FYI, looks like a bit of bare metal still showing. You should probably spray bomb that so you don’t get rust, or if you have, disregard. Lol

    • Like 1
  6. From what I remember, there is also a fuse or relay under the hood for keyless as well. If replacements are cheap, I say give it a go. I believe it’s turning the key a few times while pressing buttons on the remote. Did it on my old pathy about 9 years ago. 

     

    The pick and pull closest to me had a bin they chuck all the remotes they get in. Usually much cheaper that purchasing online. Maybe check around your area? 

  7. 45 minutes ago, PathyDude17 said:

    cpFPavh.jpg

     

    hzHac3S.jpg

    sliders showed up, think I’m gonna mount them with the inner tube flush to the rocker panel (vertically flush), and then angle just enough to clear the door. They’re a perfect fit!

    Looks good! Did you purchase the mounts as well, or will you be making your own? 

  8. 16 hours ago, PathyDude17 said:

    Thanks, adding black has made the white stand out. For future reference, I update my profile regularly and sometimes even with part numbers, but if I happen to have any of that info missing, you’re basically correct. AC front springs and LR NRC9449 rear coils. Shocks are 29.7” bilstein 5100 33-185569 (double check that part no.) shocks.I also have 6 month old KYB struts

    Ah ok. Didn’t know that was a thing, thanks! 

    • Like 1
  9. I ran 2 sets of 4Runner wheels on my old pathy, with no rings. Never had an issue with vibrations. Quite frankly never knew the rings existed. Pretty hard to throw off 6 lugs unless you impact one on like @Bax03SE said. 

     

    I will say however, that I currently have OEM wheels and spacers on my new rig and even though they are hub centric, I had some fitment issues on the fronts due to the nuts on the hubs. Not sure if it’s just my spacers or nuts, but at least you have a heads up now

    • Like 1
  10. Rig is coming along nicely. Love the look of it. Especially the white. Kinda wish my truck was white instead of silver, but I will hopefully be fixing that after the summer. 

     

    May I ask what your current suspension setup is? I think I read Land Rover rear springs and AC coils up front. Did you replace the shocks or struts? (Sorry if I missed it)

     

    Also, I like the idea of painted tow hooks. Might steal that from ya if you don’t mind...

  11. Awesome feedback guys! 

     

    Pretty much stuck on a blue. It’s my favorite color and I had a Fiji Blue Pearl 2008 Civic Si years back. Loved that color. 

     

    Forgot to mention that I will be doing all the body work and paint myself. I work at a body shop and Toyota is right across the street so I see the Cavalry Blue everyday. Haven’t gotten sick of it yet, lol. As much as I do also like the new Voodoo Blue, I believe it has metallic in it (now I’m going to have to double check at work) and that drives the price of paint up. So Cavalry Blue is a solid color. 

    • Like 2
  12. So I’m looking to repaint my truck around the end of September. After a quick road trip in July it’s going to be parked to I can do some body work and clean up everything to have it ready. 

     

    I’m loving the Toyota Cavalry Blue that is on their TRD Pro vehicles (some non-TRD Tacomas) and want to go that route. 

     

    How blasphemes is this? Lol 

     

    *I love my truck and although the silver has grown on me, it’s not what I like*

    • Like 1
  13.    On 2/18/2019 at 6:18 AM,  joshrichard said: 


    Do you have measurements for this?

    The bar should be 23 3/4 long. Holes are about 22.5 inches apart

     

    This is rough. Can be between 23.25” to 24” depending on how much extra you want on each side of the bolt holes. Bolt holes are also approximate and have roughly a .25” difference depending on who measures. 

     

    Pretty sure I cut a 24” piece, held it up, trimmed/rounded the ends, held up again, eyeballed the bolt holes, drilled, and done. I, being me, flattened about 3” on either end, welded the ends closed, and applied self etch primer and paint. 

     

    Can’t remember if I used 1/2” or 3/4” but it was the black steel pipe with threaded ends from Home Depot. Either will work. 

  14. Hey everyone. 

     

    I swapped my battery the other day and noticed the positive clamp is rusty and not really snugged down tight on the new battery. Could that be the issue of it losing power when trying to start?

     

    I don’t want to clamp it down tight and be left with a dead truck, because right now if I disconnect the positive and reconnect after 30 seconds it usually fires.  

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