crab

I found a locksmith who fixed my locks. Turns out the ignition key was just too old to work in the door. Changed the master door switch at the drivers position and at least 3 of the 4 windows go up and down, better than before. Now I need to replace the ridiculous speakers the PO put in the doors before I put it all back together.

Thanks!

What I've been working on this afternoon. Ashtray goes bye bye.

thanks.

what's good for lubing the door locks?

But but....whatever happened to "any reason to buy a new tool"?

thanks for the tips. you used the locks on your sister's truck? was there a number on the lock? I understand you need to give the dealer the code on the cylinder for them to give you matching keys. I am still thinking the key I use for the ignition is old and worn and hopefully that's the only reason it doesn't turn in the door,

thanks. I live in the woods and being able to see while backing up is kinda important.

It's manual. closest switch to the front of what?

thanks.

I changed the driver side bulb by removing the air filter. Thanks for the aiming info.

Also, I have no backup lights when in reverse, but I did see both sides come on briefly when my girl was starting up the rig, so it's not the bulbs. Is the switch that engages the backup lights in the shifter, or down in the transmission?

YES! New headlight switch from eBay solved the no high beams on one side issue. You guys are the best! Wish I could buy you all a beer or 3.

I'm feeling like the O rings were the culprit with the injectors, maybe a few thousandths too big? no amount of lube would get them in. The second set pushed in as expected. the RockAuto belt was shorter; they both had square teeth. It would only go on WITHOUT the tensioner pulley. we struggled for almost an hour before heading to a NAPA. I'm sure I'll use that hole in the dash for some after market lights. thanks That wrench looks like a fine answer to a problem. Is there a thread on door panel removal?

Sure, there's this one: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1993_Pathfinder/ I have another that's in the format of the others on the nicoclub site. Can't for the life of me remember where I downloaded. it. Is there a place I can upload it to? it's about 38Mb zipped. My auto parts struggle may be typical for a Pathfinder; I've really only worked on VWs in the past, so there's no drama over whether the parts fit. They always do. I ordered the correct parts from Rock. Everything in the timing belt kit was fine, except for the belt itself. Easily procured one that fit at the local NAPA. The injectors were another story. Also from Rock, did not fit at all. We crushed one trying to use a c clamp to get it in. Gave up then spent another $300+ on another set, also at NAPA. Those went right in. Brakes, same deal. Rear shoes were impossible to get ( that matched what was ion the car). Every store we went to gave us something that was different from what was on there, nothing fit. We adjusted the old shoes to get the ebrake working and left it at that for now. Thanks for the idea on the locksmith.

thanks. there ARE alarm remnants under the hood.

Good deal? $800. Didn't feel like a deal for a few weeks, but now I'm coming around. The locksmith was a mobile guy who came to the car before I drove it away. don't know what he did, but the ignition keys don't turn in the cylinder. I heard you need to give Nissan the cylinder number from the door lock itself. Did the timing belt last weekend, thanks. So many parts dont fit when you buy them, but that's another forum topic. (the rock auto belt didn't fit, had to get a NAPA like what was in there. No problems. 2 of the 3 radiator hoses were nowhere near the right part, etc.) I found a 93 FSM on that clio something site. Thanks for the encouragement.

ah, excellent. So it seems to be designed to pivot out to the front of the car? makes more sense than the gymnastics of doing it the other way. I wish they still made sealed beams. 10 years between replacements.

thanks. I've got to get knowledgeable about the electrics. I hear there are separate hot leads for low and high beam. Separate grounds as well? unless the hot lead itself is toast.

Now that the motor has had everything changed ( all in the sig), it's on to the myriad electric issues. If there are good threads for any of these issues, that's all I'm really asking for. Thanks. No horn 1 headlight, no High beam ( changed bulb, same symptoms) This may be the headlight switch? Ordered one off ebay. mine has a screw in the side of it from the PO). everything needs changing on this $800 rig. But I'm already in love, so time to man up. No backup lights ( took out one bulb, looked fine) by the way who is the sadist that designed the rear light assemblies? And the head lights , for that matter. Do you reach in from above, or remove the air cleaner on one side and the battery on the other? Links, people, I need links. Doors do not lock or unlock with key. Afraid to try the electric lock from the drivers door. I might get stuck in there permanently. Windows do not roll up on either rear door. It's January people, and one window is open. I have cardboard and plastic over the opening. Whats the recommended way to remove the door panels? I fixed the no clock/ no courtesy lights/no cabin lights issue. The rear cargo area light was smashed and shorted, as I hoped. Pull that out, change a fuse and voila, inside lights. That's just the electrics that I need help with. There's more.....

Here are the 2 sides of the dash. Anyone know what went in the round hole closest to the steering column?

Here's the exterior:

as far as the windows and doors go, I have a multi-tester and limited knowledge of how it works. Any good links to circuit basics on a vehicle? Also, I tried to remove one door panel and promptly popped the clip through the hardboard. Any threads on removing door panels with destroying anything? Thanks again.

thanks. The side vents dont bug me too much, but the center just looks like I was broken into. After 17 years in NYC, I know what that looks like. I need to cover that up with something.