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cntryboy_88

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Posts posted by cntryboy_88

  1. Very nice looking rig! Welcome to NPORA now you just need the official sticker...lots of people on here with lots of knowledge just let us know what you need help with...if any...and we will be glad to help you...there is a few active member here in Canada also...I'm down in jersey...good choice in the manual hubs just installed mine last weekend

     

    -John

     

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

  2. Well on hold for a little bit...I ordered the new subframe bolts today should be here in 5-7 business days...then I can install my sfd but before the new engine gets put in going to fix the strut towers...nissan did the work about a year ago but only on the inner strut towers...the strut tower on the passenger side in the engine bay is starting to separate and on the drivers side a pretty bad rust spot so I'm gonna have Leon (guy making sfd's now) fix her up right and rust proof it then the new engine will go in...I called nissan today and they said go screw yourself on the job we did wrong so whatever...pics below

     

    Passenger side

    110f416ccd7b8438f46bd12709c00795.jpg

     

    Drivers side

    2eeb0e2e49097ce1ad39b4cf0ec780b2.jpg

     

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

  3. First hello everyone I am.new to this forum. I am wanting to lift my pathfinder and have done some searches on it and got most of the info I need. What I have not gotten is the rear shocks for the lift. I know guys are using rear f250 shocks, but which ones? 4x2 or 4x4 shocks? Also I know that people are using the JGC coils and that the upcountry gives more lift, the one thing nobody has mentioned when they talk about this is whether or not they are using a drop track bar bracket with this set up. Would love to get that last bit of info before I start ordering parts or you g to the wrecker. Thanks for your help.

    c2b3cdb1f1ece11116bf4166f81aba2e.jpg

     

    Here is the shocks you want

     

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

  4. I went to the Subaru dealership and actually got a really good deal on mine...I'm pretty sure it's a yakima however the front plate said Subaru when I got it instead of yakima so I'm not real sure but I got it next day and only paid like 300 which for a dealer is pretty good

     

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

  5. For those of you that have 3.5L engines with the 4.3 and did the 3rd member and front diff swap from an older 3.3L with 4.6 gears was it worth it? I'm on 33s and plan to stay there. If a good 2 or 3" sfd came out I might do that and go 35s but for now she does what I need her to. Was the difference noticeable? I am actively considering this but would like some input.

     

    Mike

    I'm in the process (and almost finished) test fitting the new era of SFD kits to hit the market...working on the panhard bracket and the kit will be done...however I don't think you'll get 35's outta only 2-3 inches...that would be rough

     

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

  6. Warn manual hubs installed!!

     

    Also in the process of trying to install my sfd kit however my rear blocks are being stubborn...so more to come hopefully soon..once the kit is in new engine will go in

     

    eecf60c112cf95b35f9c8ca3006a7aa6.jpg

     

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

  7. That's great rust protection :)

     

    Lol now you say something after its cleaned off...jk but I am gonna spray my strut towers inside the engine bay...I've had the recall work done but still some rust on the engine side

     

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

  8. Look under the back of the truck in front of the spare tire...kinda by the fuel filter...you have fuel lines and brake lines there I have a 98 and just replaced both fuel and brake lines due to rusting and let me tell you it wasn't a fun job to do...look at the valve covers most likely has a leak but gage how bad it is...mine had caked on oil all over everthing

     

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

  9. Well finally! I got the motor out...this was the biggest pain in the butt ever...the transmission didn't want to separate from the engine then it didn't want to come off the torque converter but it finally did come out!

     

    d16529777cb5951372ac286997bd7a7a.jpg

    7bf853506f3d9d28019968bc69ee41ff.jpg

     

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

    • Like 2
  10. That thing looks so ridiculously good that I almost want to give up working on mine because it'll never look that cool

     

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

    Let it be your inspiration for your...there isn't much you can do to pathfinders (when compared to all the aftermarket crap for jeeps) so to see an offroad pathfinder is awesome...there are tons of r50's out there...how many of them look like this which is why I didn't buy the jeep my heart was so dead set on getting before I found Betsy!

     

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

    • Like 1
  11. So my buddy here in jersey is finishing up my kit for me and I'm gonna install it on my truck make any adjustments that need to be made to get it 100% right...he is offering the strut spacers subframe and engine blocks and rear spring perch modified for WJ springs for $425 all that would be left to purchase is steering extension and extended brake lines...he is making mine in a 4" kit but can make really anything desired...below is a picture of the strut spacers and I will have more pictures by next weekend along with it installed once I get that far...any questions let me know

     

    61bebc701eeb76566420809be8beec8d.jpg

     

     

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

    • Like 1
  12. Looking good! What's the tube diameter used, though? I'd expect less space between the bolt holes and the weld if using a 4"ID tube, which I think is what's required to clear the strut mount.

     

    Take a look at the mount and KrF's spacers:

     

    28_ANCHOR_703954_1__ra_p.jpg

     

    PFstrutspacers.jpg

     

    You can see on the KrF spacers they couldn't weld near the holes. I CAD'd up the strut mount surface based on an extra spacer I have, and its got a 4"ID (it's the same spacer I run on my truck, and IIRC, it's a good fit), and my CAD shows about a 1/2" space.

    Yea I've got that picture...I'm not sure the tube diameter it definitely looks smaller but not by to much really I wouldn't even think more than half an inch less

     

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

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