Grenade

Sorry I meant reground. Make sure that the actual ground lead is double grounded to a good ground position. What's weird is the runs OK the bad when warming up/hot. This makes me believe it's a coolant temp sensor, cylinder head temp sensor, or oxygen sensor or maybe egr. All other sensors are just reading a variation or variables. Nothing temp related. Good luck but I would start with the 3 major. Fuel / compression / spark. You know you have good fuel pressure and spark, well check the timing to make sure its not doing anything wanky. Then verify fuel pressure when misfire studder and any issues. This means an inline gauge you can see while driving. Does this happen only under load or also under idle no load conditions?

I highly doubt the knock \ detonation sensor is your problem. If you look on eBay you can find inexpensive replacements that work just fine. Have you checked your aac valve? This was bad on my 92 and was causing problems for me. If you can pull the harness connector at the front passenger side of the engine to test its easier. It should be 10 ohms. Also rebound your maf. This is almost mandatory with any of these vehicles. Have you confirmed your timing with a timing light?

Look into the agm style from O'Reily auto. Made by deka

13 according to rockauto

Just wanted to report back on how everythings been. Truck runs great. No more misfire or stumble. Cleaning the MAF, Changing the oxygen sensor, and the coolant sensor seem to have gotten rid of any issue's I had. The truck seems to run so smooth I cant tell if its on while at a stop light. I will run some more fuel injector cleaner through the tank and maybe some Berrymans Fuel Injector kit too. If anyone has any stumbling missing hesitation or just plain lack of power check these things out asap. They will haunt you if you dont. Thanks again.

I would look at the MAF or the Oxygen Sensor. Either one of these will cause similar problems. The MAF can only show these problems from 3k rpm plus, but its not to uncommon for it to have idle issues if its dirty. Clean the MAF, then test. Unplug the oxygen sensor, then test. Report back what you find. HTH

One thing I found recently when removing the upper intake. The rear hoses do not need to be removed from the small pipes. You can just lift the intake up, and prop it so that you can reach the injector cap. This may save you time and frustration. HTH

Sounds good. Keep us updated on your findings.

I've got a 1992, so I think my recent findings may help out. Get that injector Cap fixed ASAP. It could be allowing unmetered air into the cylinder, a diflection of injector pattern into the runner, puddling of fuel, ect. Im not positive, but I may have an extra sitting around the garage if you can't find one locally/ebay/junk yard. My 92 was having some issues that kind of mimic what you're describing. I would check all of these in this order. 1.Clean your MAF. Pull the sensor out of the housing, and clean it. 2 screws and 2 minutes of time. 2.Check the resistance of your coolant temp sensor. Measure across the two terminals of the sensor. Here's a chart: 68 degrees......................... 2.10 - 2.90 k ohms 122 degrees....................... 0.68 - 1.00 k ohms 176 degrees....................... 0.30 - 0.33 k ohms 3. You can check your Oxygen Sensor, for voltage but I have found that even tho it show's the correct voltages, it still does not work correctly. Mine would test good, then throw random 33 codes. Took a while to throw them too. I am not at home at the moment, so I can not look at my FSM but I will in a few hours. I replaced mine becusae of the symptoms I was having, plus the random 33 code that would show. Both of these sensors deal with fuel and the delivlery. I having a bad stumble, hesitation, and overall loss of power and when I replaced these two, it cleared itself up. I got my Temperature Sensor from Ebay, as well as my Oxygen Sensor. Temp: http://www.ebay.com/itm/251124807703?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Oxygen: http://www.ebay.com/itm/300970435107?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I hope this helps, as when I did swap my two sensors, and clean my MAF the results were tremendious.

Well over the weekend I got both of these sensors (Oxygen and Coolant Temp) changed out. Huge difference. At the same time I cleaned out the MAF and that helped out quite a bit too. I am going to do some more cleaning of the sensor tonight (I didnt pull it off the housing, just sprayed the cleaner into the ports) by removing it completly from the housing (like the how to) I will report back and let everyone know how it goes. The truck ran for about 30 minutes with out a total loss of power/missing but something is still not right. I feel like its down on power somewhat still but I have not taken it out for a major drive since I cleaned the MAF.

Did you ever solve this? If not I can check my factory service manual and let you know the color code

Got it. I'll check this out

When you say I can just unplug it to test it, what would the symptoms be? I've been working on looking this over again today and on a hunch I decided lay night to order a new Bosch oxygen sensor and an oem temp sensor last night. Well today during some more trouble shooting I found that maybe the temp sensor is goofy. Also I unplugged the O2 sensor and the truck kind of cleared up but was still a little stumbly. Also, I now have a 33 code on the computer so I am thinking all my issues may relate to the oxygen sensor. I'll replace both of them and report back. Thanks again fellas.

I forgot to put in my original post that I have checked the maf and it is within factory service manual specs. I also have added a ground wire to the harness to help with the recap issue. I had not cleaned it because it looked clean when I did the swap. I will double check tomorrow.

All the injectors were resistance tested before the swap. They all were right at 12.5 ohms. Other than a "balance" test by unplugging each one to see if they cause the engine to slow down is there anything I can do?

Quick background on my rig. 1992 With a lower mileage vg30 just swapped in. New plugs New wires New ignition coil Aac valve is good 10ohm Air valve is good 70ohm EGR passes stick test TPS is good 1k-9k Timing is 15 deg btdc Battery voltage when running is 13.5 vdc New Cap and Rotor No ECU codes. When I start the truck and its warming up it runs good. I'm able to drive normally and there is no sputtering or missing. After its gets warmed up it begins to hesitate and stumble. I can limo it back to my garage but it will continue to do this until I let it sit for a while. Then I can start it back up and all is good for a little till its warmed up again. My fuel pressure is at 43 psi when testing the pump, but I'm not sure what it is when driving as I just can attach a gauge and dead head the pump. Could this possiblly be the O2 sensor? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Just got back from the garage and the truck runs. Now to button this all up tomorrow and get this thing Rollin in the dirt!

Just got back from the garage and the truck runs. Now to button this all up tomorrow and get this thing Rollin in the dirt!

I was not really able to check this because the engine is in the truck now and its near impossible. I took a gamble and installed a new starter and all works as it should.... But I can not get the engine to run. It will turn over just fine but will not run. I have spark, compression and fuel. Timing is dead on from everything I can see. I'm stumped.

Im currently in the last stages of bolting my 89' 300zx engine into my 1992 pathfinder. I have come to a small snag, in the starter area. I am unsure of what to do. The starter that came off the original vg30 (92 pathfinder) was in need of a new solenoid. So, I picked up a new one and put it on. The starter tests find, and will turn the motor over, but it does not make a good sound. The bendix gear seems to be grinding / chattering on the flywheel. It is only on the "end" of the part of the gear that comes into contact with the flywheel. I am using the starter mount plate from the original vg30 engine, and all seems to be in alignment. The plate is held onto the engine by the block, and then the bolts go through the belhousing of the transmission into the starter pulling it into the plate. When I pulled the starter off I did notice some shavings from the bendix gear. I checked the flywheel, and it seems straight and the bracket does not seem bent at all. It currently is sitting flush with the transmission belhousing. The engine (long block) is from a 1989 300ZX so I am wondering if any issue my be related to this? Anyone have any inclination on this? TIA

I recently have removed the stock broken VG30E from my 1992 SE-V6 4SP Auto 4x4 Pathfinder. I did some research before I even bough the vehicle to see what was all required to complete this task. I did find some good information, but nothing that was concrete. I have access to ALLDATA style online manual, which did help, but was in itself somewhat confusing and missleading. I have also ordered the FSM but am still waiting on that to arrive. Here's some information that I was wondering and now have an answer to. YES, you can remove JUST THE ENGINE WITHOUT removing the transmission or transfer case, OR the front differential. I did this without removing the drive line as well. Remove the Transmission Crossmemeber and use a Transmission jack or motorcycle jack to support it. This will also allow you to change the AXIS of the driveline for easy bolt access. For the Lower bolts, Lower the transmission/transfer case and this will allow some easier access. A 14mm ratchet wrench will be a life saver for you! If you can, try and have both a long and a short one. This will save you time. For the Top (two top ones, and one drivers side one) raise the transmission/transfer case. This will pull them away from the firewal. On the DS top bolt, I laid across the DS fender, and for the one directly below it, I pulled off the DS wheel and reached past the mud flap/fender. This was to break them loose. The PS Top bolt can be accessed from directly ontop of the engine. I laid across the manifold, and was able to easily get my hand with wrench in there to break it free. The Starter Bracket must be removed to seperate the engine/transmission. There is an "inspection cover" that is pinched between the Engine and the Transmission. All bolts must be removed to seperate the two somewhat and the cover will unbolt. This MUST be removed to get to the flexplate/converter bolts. There are 4 of them, and they are small. The best way I found was to use a long extension and impact that was at the front of the engine bay, where the radiator/fan would be. I removed the first one, then took some spray paint, and sprayed into the area, marking the two. This is becuase they are balanced from the factory. Then rotate engine, and remove the other 3. I was able to remove the engine with out disconnecting the PS / and AC compressor. Just move them nicely to the sides. There are many bolts that hold the Engine to the Transmission. They are different lengths and they go different ways. Try your best not to mix them up. I used a template to keep mine in place hopefully. Now is a GREAT time to change your engine mounts, headers, transmission lines, add a cooler, rebuild your starter, or anything else thats in the engine bay. I have not installed the new (used) engine yet, but I will try and update this post with any information I find that may help. Thanks.

Just wanted to say hello to all.. I've had over 30 car's over 17 years of driving, so I kind of have a love for the online forums. I picked this up of the CL for an ok deal. Im doing all the work myself and along with AMAZON, and EBAY Im hoping to make a nice Weekend Warrior 4x4 for around $2,000. My current line up is 2005 Cts-V with MP112 supercharger and supporting mods 1992 Nissan SE-V6 Pathfinder with 300zx VG30E swap n/LSD 1974 Yamaha TX650 Hardtail bobber 1980 Yamaha XS650 Dirt Tracker Some past 1995 Hardbody King Cab XE-V6 (First car) 33's, Fabtech, ect 1974 Nova 4dr w/396 BBC Swap 1972 Nova 2dr w331 SBC Nitrous car 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 Sport 37's 1990 Plymouth Laser (Holy Grail) Turbo 5 SP AWD 2001.5 Audi S4 Bi-Turbo 2005 Mitsubushi Evo MR w/GT30 2004 Subaru wrx w/STI swap w/GT35R 2.34 Crawford Closed deck block ect 1992 Jeep Cherokee Rock Crawler 2003 Jeep TJ on 33's (Paid $800) lol So as you can see I am all over the place with any vehicle. Picked up a 1992 Pathfinder that needed an engine swap due to a skipped timing belt. Im right in the middle of the swap, with the used motor on the engine stand, with the accessories back on. I am waiting on Belts, and Hoses right now, and also the gasket kit for the top half. If anyone has any questions about what im doing, or where Im at, let me know. Im thinking about starting a thread in one of the sections with some information in pullling the engine, beucase it seems to me that there is not many definite answers on some of the hurdles I found. Wish me luck and thanks.