Soccerstudd5
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Posts posted by Soccerstudd5
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That's pretty inventive. It's amazing the mechanical inventions of those times before computers.
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I'll be installing a dedicated one on it, probably on the underside of the hood with a cowel on top of the hood and e-fan below the cooler.
I think this is my favorite of the options listed so far. Sounds like the most protected and most airflow, only problem would be more fabrication for the cowl hood, but definitely doable.
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I took it off and just left the open hole going into the airbox. Haven't had any problems at all, sounds a little deeper when accelerating now too. Here's the link to what I took off, I had a little problem right after, but it was because I had disturbed the MAF sensor, but after adjusting it, everything was fine.
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Low of 2 F today, high of around 20 F... cold in other words
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That thing looks awesome mate. Not sure about your issue though.
x2, best of luck to you.
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That's crazy and ingenious, what will they think of next?
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Got it, looked right over that diagram the first time... my bad
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IN the t-case? Ok, thanks...
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Did some searching and couldn't find anything, but I know I've seen it in the past.
Where is the indicator switch for the 4wd? I remember it's somewhere around the transmission or t-case under the truck, but I can't remember more than that. I am going to be crawling under there and checking some stuff and would like to fix the problem of my 4wd light always being on. As always, TIA!
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x2 on the height, cause it's going to be even higher than shown when mounted to line the holes up with the headlights. But other than that, can't complain much when it's $1, or free rather....
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TIf your going to be swapping to a gm engine why not get a small block like a 305(non-vortec),they get great gas milage and have the tourqe to get up and move pretty good.A th700 tranny and a 305 would be a great combo.I say this because to switch from one make engine to another in a car isa lot of work.Just changing the 3.0 to a 4.3 will require a full electric swap,new tranny,drive shaft,t-case...and in the end you get a engine that doesnt make much more power then a 3.0 with headers and intake...
Agreed. My pathy has started leaking oil and when I changed my alternator it had grease and oil all over it, so I had thought of a rebuild also. But then I remembered I have a 327 just sitting around so why not, if going to all that trouble, swap in something with a lot more hp and torque. Of coarse, this is one of many great ideas I come up with that take a while to do since I'm in school and lack time and money. But that's an eventual (this summer hopefully) plan for me. Good luck on the decision, and let me know how it goes.
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I've used an ice scraper before, it works well, but that was on my camaro, the hatch on my pathy seems to hold up just fine, never replaced em.
But that's not a bad idea if I ever start getting hit on the head.
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d. apparently one guy has told 87pathy that his truck needs to be returned to stock form to meet DOT requirements. i laughed
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I'd say check out craigslist. There's a TON of stuff out there and you can always find a good deal, especially if you're not set on one make and model.
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It's definitely come a long way. Looks good, congrats!
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31's is probably the best bet, but I remember someone recently posting pics of a their ride with 33's and no lift IIRC, just a lot of cutting. Anyone else remember that? (starts searching for page...)
Found it... it was 32x12.50's on Aerosync's page in the Member's Rides section. Did some cutting, but says it's stock. Just scanned it really, may have done the PML. Hope this helps.
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Why on earth would they make the brake light come on if the alternator is bad? The battery light alone should be sufficient to tell you to investigate your electrical system.
If I saw a double light like that I would have thought it was instrumentation issue instead of real problem.....
That's what I thought, but I got my battery tested and it was fine so I just ignored it. Turned out to be a bad idea.
Also, my alternator was covered in grease and oil... any ideas? I plan on taking a closer look at the engine in about a week when I can put it in the garage and I'm not in my apartment parking lot when it's below freezing, and possibly taking it into the shop.
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And I thought America had all the dumb drivers... I guess they're all over the place. I think along with a driving test, your common sense and IQ should be tested before being allowed on the road... just a thought.
Sorry for the rant, but stupid people driving irritates me a little.
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Don't know if this has been posted before but I just encountered it and thought that it could be useful knowledge for others, and someone correct me if I'm wrong.
About a week ago, the battery and brake light would come on the dash and wouldn't go away until revved above about 2800-3000 RPM's. I didn't pay much attention as I have had weird lights come on and mean nothing before. But then a few days ago they stayed on no matter what. Then the pathy died while driving laat night with the lights on. All electrical went out and it died, I'm sure you all know what happens when the alternator goes out.
Almost got hit cause it was night and I was trying to push it out of the road and didn't have enough power for hazard lights.... bad situation.
Anyways.... replaced the alternator today and charged the battery a bit. I've since driven it 30 miles or so and the battery and brake light are now no longer on. I can only assume that those two on at the same time is the dummy light for the alternator going bad.
So the long and short of it: if the brake and battery light is coming on until you rev it up, you may want to get your alternator checked and/or replaced.
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I actually just did this a little over a week ago, should've taken pics I guess.... are you talking about the L shaped rod that connects to the handle? If so, the plastic piece on the bottom of it (male end) just fits into another piece (female end) by the edge of the door. It simply sits down in it and when the handle is lifted, the piece gets pushed down. Hope that helps.
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Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure the factory amps were in the back side panels by the hatch and what you cut the wires to was the ECU. So as Kiwi said, gotta rejoin all those wires....
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Not too shabby...
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Nice pic, congrats!
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Mine varies, I put about 25 a day if I don't work, and if I do, somewhere around 40-50. I deliver pizza while I'm in school cause it's easy money and works around my school stuff.
Just wanted to say thanks to...
in Off-Topic
Posted
x3! Thanks all!