DECALMAN

Thanks

My lock and unlock button was not working. After doing some reading I found out that the power door locks are controlled by a little box inside the left rear panel called the POWER DOOR LOCK TIMER. After checking continuity from the master switch I figured out that the switch was sending the signal and I didn't have any cut on the cables. Then I tested the door lock actuators by providing 12v to one side and negative to the other. That also helped me figure out which cable needed power for the doors to lock and viceversa. So, the timer seems not to be working. I could of bought one on ebay but I already had 2 five pin relays handy. So this is how I wired everything. Diagram pic Relay pins will not be lined up like that. I drew it like that so I wouldn't have any lines crossing each other. This will probably work as a Power Window amp alternative also, just find the correct wires.

It did at the beginning but I had installed a 6 pin 3 position switch to work the window.

So, I finally had the time to double check my power window issue. Driver's side window was going UP automatically. I originally thought it was the master switch so I ordered an used one on ebay since mine was missing 3 buttons anyway. When the master switch got here I installed it to find out that I was still having the same problem. I set out to find the Power Window Amp located on the passenger side kick panel. Searching online I found a youtube video where a guy opens one up and suggests to look for cracked solder points. I was not having that problem. After a real close inspection I found that one of the actuator (if that's what they are called) was burned welded to the bottom part. Both of them are naturally stock to the top part and that flappy thing goes down when activated giving positive current. I carefully tried to separate the welded area with an exacto knife. Then I used a paper sand disk on my dremel to clean the bottom part. As you can see that it's no longer touching the bottom part. Power Windows are operational! [emoji106]

Yes it was high since i bought it. I will clean the throttle body and MAF later. Adjusting the screw was a quick easy fix until i have the time to the other stuff.

So after searching this forum w I was not able to find a clear answer has to where are the parts nor pictures. So i decided to put this together. I was getting between 1200 and 1500 rpm. So I first checked the service manual to troubleshoot the problem. I found the IACV-AAC PLUG from the passenger side and checked with a voltmeter and i did have 10 ohms as the manual suggest. I first shot it with some electronic cleaner and rpms went down to 1000 to 1200 rpm I then proceeded to find the Idle adjuster screw I unplugged the IACV-AAC PLUG and turned the screw clockwise about 3 times to get it down to 700 rpm since it was at about 900 to 1000 rpm with the cable unplugged. Problem solved!

I'll get on that these coming weeks.

My A/C compressor is not working on my recent purchased 1993 pathfinder. The previous owner said that the compressor would not not turn when the AC was on. The pulley turns freely when off. This makes me belief that the coil or sometimes called magnet inside has gone bad. Any thoughts? Has anybody attempted this fix? Can it be done on this compressor? Where can I buy the coil since I can find it on the net? Thanks in advance.

Here is the radio wire diagram in case somebody needs it. here is a pdf version http://www.mediafire.com/view/f6j3q3kupx4vr97/1993_pathfinder_audio_diagram.pdf

I think it still looks good.

31's semi traction

I got lucky with my recent purchase!