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wickedss85

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Posts posted by wickedss85

  1. Maybe we can nail down some dates soon. Saturdays normally work best for me. Maybe sometime in May? I saw you joined over at NOAS as well. I'm the other newbie there. Lol. SFD is hard to come by right now. Krypton aren't shipping any at the moment and stopped production. There are 2 other guys claiming they are going to start making them. Most typically run 33's with the sfd but you have to get wheels with different backspacing or wheel spacers to fit them. You could always just get the spacers for now then add the sfd later for a total of 6 inches of lift.

    Sounds good as im supposed to be going with some of my old Jeep crew sometime soon. Yeah I saw that the SFD is kinda extinct for now so looks like im gonna do the spacer lift. When i do it im looking at going ahead and doing the front struts and rear shocks as well since im in there.

  2. With XE and SE trim 31x10.50 is about as big as you can go without a lift.I have an LE and had to go with different wheels to fit 31.10.50's. Hope this helps.

     

     

    I was under the impression that the XE stock 15s wont hold the 31x10.50's for safety reasons?

  3. I went to uwharrie last year with my stock pathfinder. I did bottom out on some humps twice but it was soft dirt mounds. No harm done. It did really well. I have put 2" spacers on since then and removed my step rails for extra clearance. I plan on going back this season. Post here if you plan going and want an extra pathfinder to roll with. I know 2 other pathfinder owners in the area itching to go. It would be awesome to have a group of us go for a run.

     

    Definitely interested! I am considering either the 2 inch spacer lift or the 4 inch subframe drop kit. Just cant really find a straight answer on max tire size with the sfd kit.

  4. Looking at trying the old 98 Pathy out at Uwharrie this year finally. Im looking at doing a bone stock run then later in the year do a modified run and see the difference. My biggest question is has anyone here took a stock R50 to Uwharrie and if so how did it fair? Any tips for me? Not looking to go crazy first time there but do want to see what it can do. As she sits she is a 1998 Pathfinder XE 5 speed with the factory LSD in back and 235/75/r15 Goodyear Wranglers on stock chromies. Thanks in advance, By the way my future upgrades are the Fluerrys 2 inch lift and the 265/75r16 mts on crager rims.

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  5. Thank you so much for the info and yeah i finally got it cleared up thanks. Is anyone on here running the AC 2inch lift with 31's? Curious to see what that would look like or if i need to plan on larger tires. The jeep I had previously had a 4.5 inch lift with 31's and I loved it. It was a jeep zj for reference but it allowed for alot of flex on the trails and didnt look odd with the fender gap.

  6. Ok so after noticing that my Path had a little lean in its stance very slight mind you I did some measuring. The side to side difference is about an inch to an inch and a half towards the drivers side. So I know im gonna have to go into the suspension so I was trying to get an idea, am i looking at new coils and all or should new struts and shocks fix this issue? Like i said its not very noticeable from looking at it i guess i just caught it just right to see it. Thanks in advance.

  7. The 4x4parts.com kit is good but a bit pricey and they charge too much for shipping. It's much cheaper to just order the following part numbers from an online Nissan parts dealer (credit goes to Hawairish for supplying these in another thread):

    Here's what you need*:

     

     

     

    4x 55080-0W00B bolts

     

    4x 54368-0W02A bolts

     

    8x 08918-6441A nuts

     

     

     

    *Just buy 8 of the cheaper bolts (54368). They are the same hardness, size, and thread pitch...and essentially length and thread length.

     

    Nevermind i just saw this! I will try these numbers and see what i come up with.

  8.  

    Sorry, I read as "I purchased at the [4x4parts] link...".

     

    Nothing major against 4x4parts, they do have some good deals on parts, but definitely not when it comes to OEM parts.

     

    Your best bet is really going with OEM. It's worth it. I just swapped my bushings a few months ago, so I'm (hopefully) not blowing smoke on this one. All I know is that I couldn't find a suitable combination of hardware that topped what OEM offered.

     

    Check out courtesyparts.com and nissanparts.cc. Both are dealerships (TX & WA) that have very competitive prices for all OEM parts. I've used both religiously for the past 15 years or so. There's also a forum member here that runs the parts department at a Nissan dealership (in the Vendors section), so consider supporting that as well.

     

     

    Ok so just checked out courtesy parts website and maybe its just their diagram but im having a hard time getting the correct part numbers for the bolts and nuts. I know that 4 bolts are long and 4 are short plus i think there is other differences too. I do agree that OEM is the better way to go. But that diagram is putting a butt whooping on my eyes!

  9. Looking to find the exact size of the rear control arm bolts both upper and lower for a 1998 Pathy xe. If I can im going thru Fastenal or maybe another supplier I have heard mentioned on here but cant seem to find the post. I did do a search and have come up with no useful info. I also tried downloading the FSM and it didnt work either. Please help!

  10.  

    You seem to be mixing hubs and lockers.... they are different animals all together....

     

    Let's start with the lockers....

     

    Any 4x4 is actually really a 2x4... It usually means that only 1 wheel in front and 1 wheel in rear will get power from the transmission/transfer case. The 4x4 refers to the fact that it can be either 1 of the 2 front wheel or either 1 of the 2 rear wheels... This is why when you get a wheel off the ground, it is usually this one that will turn and not send power to the other on the ground. This is the general explanation... There is variants like lsd (limited slip diff and smart systems like in the h1...but you get the picture...)

     

    A locker is installed in the differential itself. It is a system (either electrically, manually or air pressure activated) that will force both side (both wheels) to turn together. So the power is sent to both wheels no matter if they are off the ground or not. So if you install 2 lockers (front and rear) you get a real 4x4 per se.

     

     

     

    Hubs now...

     

    on our pathfinders (96-2004), the front wheels are directly connected to the the front diff using a flange on the axle. This means, that even if you are in 2wd, your whole front powertrain (cv axles, ring gear in diff, front driveshaft) is turning. There is just no power being sent to it, but it is turning. This gives you the ability to shift on the fly in 4wd because everything is turning at the same speed. The connection only has to be made in the transfer case. Now since everything in front is turning and it is not coming from the transfer case, you understand that it is coming from the wheels themselves. If the front wheel turns, then your front powertrain is also turning.

     

     

    This is where the hubs come handy. They enable you to dis-engage the frontwheels from the powertrain. This means when your hubs are unlocked, your axles, ring gear and front driveshaft are not turning. Therefore this greatly helps in prolonging the life of all these items. It also help on gas since the drag of the front powertrain is eliminated.

     

    If you use your pathfinder like the majority of us (daily driver and occasional trails), then you would simply unlock during normal day to day drives and lock when you know you might need the 4x4 (like in offroad or winter time (for us canuck !)..

     

    It is simply a cheap and great way to prolong the life of major components and save on gas, while maintaining the ability to shift to 4x4 in a matter of 1 minute.

     

    Hopefully you understand better now what the difference is between the 2.

     

    Cheers.

     

     

    https://youtu.be/8M_Vzn7Ugs4 (lockers)

     

    https://youtu.be/Vxy4n2bzcvo (hubs)

     

     

     

     

     

    Very well explained :goodpost: !

  11. Handle your basics first, then go for the body. No point in having form over function. Im in the same boat as i want to dive into ALL KINDS of mods to my stock pathy but I have some TLC that must come first then once my other project car is done I am starting with lift and wheels and tires the the body mods. Just my 2 cents.

  12. If you want to keep your same 15x8 wheels when you eventually install 32's, be sure to get 15x8 wheels with 3.75" to 4" backspacing. They will fit both 31's and 32's.

    I plan on keeping the same new wheels but my question is this, as far as backspacing goes im not worried about how much the tire sticks out to a certain degree. Which backspacing would give me more clearance as far as strut to tire and other items that i may run into? 3.75 or 4?

  13. Also check when you drive it to see if it has what I have found is a common issue with R50's over 140,000 miles and thats the rear upper and lower control arm bushings. Trust me you will know if they are bad as you will get what is known as the "death wobble" when going down the road.Not a hard fix as im fixing to do mine. Just bought new upper and lower control arms with new bushings already installed for ease of installation. Just my 2 cents.

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