kev9180

Slarti, yeah the hold down is busted. I don't even see where there would be one. My battery is just sitting on top of a metal looking plate it looks like and sliding around. The little plug that the headlight wires connect into off of the positive terminal is where the issue is. Those cables keep coming a bit loose

So with further inspection it seems to be that the two wires that get power to the headlights from the battery are a bit loose on the actual terminal that comes right off the battery. When the battery slides whenever I turn, the two wires coming off the terminal shift which cuts power to the headlights. Don't know how I'm going to secure the battery but I'm going to try and use some electrical tape at the least to further secure the headlight wires in the plastic terminal that connects to the battery. Hopefully that way I'll keep my lights even when the battery shifts.

Terra, I took it apart and everything looks sound in there, clean and surprisingly in tact. Just got the new headlight/turn signal switch as well just in case.

Just checked and the battery does move around on its platform, how did you fix it? I had no idea that that would affect it, thanks!

BTW the filaments on both the headlights are fine,and if I turn left the lights usually come back on.

Like title says, when I make a right turn, both my front headlights go out. Everything else works, tail lights, cruise control, brake lights, etc. I replaced my turn signal switch thinking it was that but nope, same problem. I took apart the steering wheel cover a few weeks ago and was good for a few days but problem is back. What do I do? If I get a multimeter and test for power (never used one), how do I do that? I'm on my last nerve with this one lol. Thanks guys

Its the bottom right pole in the picture, its basically just an enpty port that doesn't have the little piece in there that keeps the wire in place so it can touch the other piece on the male harness

Brake light/ running tail light not working due to the pole where the wire goes not conducting electricity. The crimp(?) that holds the wire in place isn't in there so its not making contact with the other end for the lights to work. What should I do for this? New wire terminal? http://imgur.com/kBq8zzb

Also, MT90 helped me a lot as well. Smoother shifting and don't notice the whine. I just got the vehicle last month and changed the mt fluid as soon as possible though

Really hope I can get another 3 years out of my pathy to get it back to Tucson. Desert weather would be so much better than out here in western Illinois

B, I think Daczone may be talking about doing a complete drain and replacing all ~5L with redline mt-90 the expensive stuff. In my case I bought the gallon jug and 2 quart bottles and it came out to just over $100. But even so like you said, he could get some cheaper stuff that would probably still be better than nothing!

If you're transmission is whining, then the consensus seems to be that you're are best off just parking your truck and doing all the necessary work now, as it's going to go sooner or later. Check out the manual transmission TSB for more info, the very first main post has all the info. Other than that, iirc the thread also said go ahead and overfill it. That's my reasoning at least, I don't have the money or resources for the full transmission fix at the moment, so I drained it and refilled it with the proper amount in hopes of getting some more life out of it!

Okay I got it all changed. Hardest part was definitely getting the carpet cuts to get the bolts free. Had to make more cuts than I wanted but can't really tell when it's all tucked back in! PS... Don't forget the zip ties! Lol

Thanks, I found a site that's got a great walk thru on that part. http://beergarage.com/PathTransmission1Remove.aspx It's like mid way down the page!

Before i start making cuts, where are the bolts i will need access too and where exactly should i cut? Are those little plastic pieces near the side of the boot what I'm looking to get out?

Thanks for the tip! I'll give it a shot tomorrow on the day off. Makes it a lot easier than having to take out the seats and carpet, etc etc.

Sweet, I'll have to do that for easy future changes. Any way I could do it without lifting the carpet/seats up in the first place?

B, what were the cuts for? Easy access for future changes? Daczone, the consensus seems to be that if it's whining, it's already screwed, and will eventually (keyword) need the rebuild, etc. I've got the whine as well but until I can save up more money I'm going to overfill and hope it extends my transmission life as it has with some others.

Okay, sweet. Those little screws are giving me issues too. Keep turning em but they won't come out -_-

Dumb question but I'm a newbie so bear with me! Went to change my transmission fluid so I could overfill it but couldn't figure out how to get my carpet up to be able to fill it through the gear shift. Any advice or a guide anywhere? Then I tried to fill it by jacking up the passenger side but realized I won't be able to just pour the stuff in there due to the tight space. I'm going to need a fluid pump if I do it that way, right? Am I missing something? Thanks for any help guys. Much appreciated.

Regarding getting the carpet up to free the boot and gear shift, is there a guide anywhere on how to do this? I can't seem to figure out how to get up my passenger side carpet without tearing it up.

I switched out my dash lights today with some led's i got on superbrightleds.com, like some others here have done, and it was super easy. My dash lights were really dim and low before but they're perfect now. I got 4 of the 194 LED Bulbs with the 120 degree beam (https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/wedge-bulbs/194-led-bulb-1-led-wedge-base/197/#/attributes/30) in the cool white color.

I got down there this morning and got out the grass/dirt. Man, you were right it was packed tight as hell, and there was a lot more than you can see in the pic, so it must have made contact with a hill or something at some point. Got it all out, and while I don't really know completely what i'm looking at down there, everything looked okay as far as i can tell. Although, there was a seal on each of the torsion rods where they connect to the frame(?) that were both cracked and nearly coming off the torsion rod. I'll get down there a little bit later today and do some measurements (once again, thanks for those references hawairish!) and try and take some pictures. as well.

Thanks guys, I'll definitely pay the $95 bucks to get the frame checked and see whats up. Hopefully its not too bad / too expensive.

So my alignment is pretty bad. I can let go of the wheel and it'll veer off to the left about 45 degrees. Pretty bad. Today I went to go get an alignment from the Nissan dealership (since i've heard on here some places won't touch older pathfinders), only to find out they couldn't do it. The tech took me out to show me what he was talking about, and he said my frame is bent a little bit. The driver's side torsion rod was making contact with a piece (frame?) right next to it which he said was contributing to the 'alignment' issue. They said there pretty much wasn't a point in following through with the alignment process because of this issue. He referred me to the Ford dealership that does all the frame work and collision work. The guy at the dealership i was talking to said he'd seen a lot worse and it seemed pretty minor, probably a minimum $300 fix. He also said that it might contribute to some accelerated tire wear, and that I will probably have to keep up on tire rotations more often to keep the wear to a minimum, but he said that was about it. Other than that, he said it was an awesome truck and it was in pretty good shape for being from 1990. As far as i know, the vehicle hasn't been in any accidents, and the previous owner said the same. Probably should have done a carfax or something. I did call the ford dealership and they said they need me to come in so they can get it up and get out the lasers and computers and magical equipment (in my words) to figure out the extent of the damage. Said it'd be about $95 to do that so they could tell me what was really up. Here's some pics of both the torsion rods so yall can see what i'm talking about. The drivers side torsion rod is the one making contact with the piece next to it, there's a picture of the passenger side torsion rod as well for reference to see the space between the rod and the piece the other one is making contact with on opposite side. What do you guys think? Follow through with the frame work or just keep driving and having to correct my alignment non-stop? Here's the drivers side rod touching the piece next to it. (Don't mind the stuck grass ) And here's the other side: