NovaPath
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Posts posted by NovaPath
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So here is the question now, what would be stronger:
1. The rugged rocks offroad DOM links : https://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/hd-adjustable-lower-rear-suspension-links-nissan-pathfinder-1996-2004-by-rugged-rocks-p-3885.html?osCsid=64fk61qgt5ks4mbdlganbc6fp0
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2. Stock links with poly bushings and angle iron welded to the bottom?
Price difference is going to be within 100.00, with the slightly cheaper one being the angle iron option...
Thoughts?
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U-bolts won't really work, because they'll get caught on whatever the arm drags over and will get pulled off. (Landing on or dragging over something is why trailing arms get bent.)
Also, the increased strength comes from attaching [welding] the angle-iron along the entire length of the arm, not only at two ends.
Those are the problems I ran into in my head last night, too..ha ha. I was thinking about using multiple(like 6) and having the ubolts on the top with a slightly larger angle bracket with holes drilled...at any rate it doesn't matter too much work and I'm sure it would break. I'll look into the angle bracket and welding idea, though. Just have to find someone willing to weld them for me...
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I bought a pair of OEM arms and had pieces of angle-iron welded to them. They have held up to some pretty extensive abuse ever since.
Interesting Idea! I was actually laying in bed last night wondering If I could do something similar but without the welding, and use some 1/4 inch thick angle iron and some U-bolts...
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Fleury's: What is the price of those bad boys?
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May or may not be useful, but check your skid plates. I had the most obnoxious noise that I could not figure out, similar actions would temporarily stop it, and it turned out my transfer skid was lightly touching.
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Thats my thinking too Kyle, problem is I can't weld
. Why are you thinking square as opposed to round, would square tubing be more resistant to bending? There is a fabricator that sponsor's my local club, I keep meaning to give him a call to ask him about this and just haven't done it yet.. -
So the fact that it rises at those temperatures rules out the viscous fan. There is a secondary thermostat on these vehicles as well that is a much bigger pain to get to. If you are overheating at load I would suspect the secondary T-stat. Other potential issues could be the water pump not flowing properly, collapsed radiator hoses, clogged radiator, or air in the system.
Just noticed you are talking about a 2000, i'm not actually sure if they have the secondary thermostat so you may want to research that.
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Ebay has a few listed for the 01 pathfinder, are you sure that your part # is correct? Are the other part #'s interchangeable?
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Have fun!
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So while underneath my truck today it appears I have bent not one but both of my rear trailing arms on rocks from one of my recent off road trips. A quick google search indicates that rugged rocks off road offers an HD option, but it seems a bit pricey for my current financial situation(broke). I'm wondering if anyone has retrofitted any other lower control arms into these rigs? In theory it is just a couple of bolts connecting a long piece of metal, as long as the length can be made the same it should be plug and play I would think. I'm not interested in going with new OEM equivalents as I'm sure within six months I will have managed to bend those up as well..
Thanks for the help!
-Ryan
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AK: Why do you need the rack and the pump?
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Patrick,
That turned out excellent my friend. I think if you fashion a gas shock to soften the opening especially on an incline/side angle, you will have a fool proof setup there. Great Job!
Thanks for documenting this, I will be on the lookout for a spare from a junkyard now as well!
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Haha, a backup camera may work, but chances are I wouldn't be looking at it when it happens anyways. I only tend to bump into things when wheeling. Many of the trails are pretty tight in the mid-atlantic. I have figured out that our rigs have a tighter turning radius than a JKU though, so that is a solid win!
I agree, very nice job Patrick. Hopefully my questions did not take away from the fact I think this is awesome!
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Ok sweet thanks. Do you feel it will be strong enough to take the occasional "oops there is a tree back there" treatment that I tend to subject my truck to? My concern is causing damage to the body if/when I accidentally back into a tree, or slam down on a rock(less likely due to location, but still possible I suppose).
Thanks Again,
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So am I reading this correctly, and that the only attachment points are the 4 blind nuts on the outside sheet metal? If so, and that actually holds, this project may be simple enough for me to attack as well.
Thanks,
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Yeah, they are. You can actually feel the ball joint pop when you rock the truck back and forth with your other hand on the link...
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I was able to use the existing students with my manual hubs, was that not an option for you? Made life much simpler
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I purchased some moog Sway bar links, you know the ones, the ones with the regreaseable zerk fitting. Well, I am hear to tell you, they are garbage. Less than 7k miles(and I've lubed them twice), and the passenger side is shot and clunking like mad. I'm going to pump some grease into it again to see if it will shut up for a little bit longer, but this is rediculous. It isn't just a light rattle kind of shot, either, it is the kind of shot that when turning you can feel it clunk in the floor board. Infuriating.
Ok, rant over.
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no flex at all? I know the IFS won't do much but the back should provide some decent articulation. Do you have a rear sway bar still?
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It does! By only about an inch though
Once I go up to 33's it is going to have to come off..... -
no roof rack suggestions but I can tell you that I absolutely love my bilstein's combined with the ac 2" lift. The ride improvement over stock is significant.
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I'm sure he has the electronic 4x4 switch and not the manual. So manual hubs would be bad.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
To my knowledge 2000 pathfinder did not have the option for the selectable switch. Why are you sure he has this?
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You will need 2 spare axles because left and right are different.
You should bring a spare tie rod.
tie rod is definitely on the list, Axles are not different so one spare is sufficient, and easy!
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It's not incredibly modified but not stock either(2" lift, 31's, skid plates etc). I typically take it relatively easy but every once in a while will push it pretty hard as well.
Squeaking noise driving me nuts from the front wheel
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
So I've got what sounds almost like a rubberized squeaking noise coming from the front left wheel. I have manual hubs, so it should not be the cv axle, and I have tested it with the hubs locked or unlocked and it makes no difference. The noise is speed dependent, but on one drive it may do it at speeds under 5mph, the next may do it from speeds from 10-30mph, and the next drive may do it not at all. It is definitely rotational though as the "frequency" of the squeak increases with speed. Also, the time of the drive determines how loud the squeak is, and at about the 30minute mark it becomes quiet but then starts squeaking louder once you are on the road past an hour.
I've checked and replaced the brake pads with all proper anti squeal etc, and if I tap the breaks the noise still does not go away which leads me to believe it must be the bearing. I have checked the bearing for play, there is none. I have spun the wheel and the wheel seems to move smoothly with no binding. Short of just removing the caliper, and subsequent rotor and bearing assembly simply to repack and put together, does anyone have any easier suggestions to try?
At this point I just don't want the wheel to pass me as I'm driving down the highway!
Thanks in advance,
-Ryan