NovaPath
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Posts posted by NovaPath
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Post up the footage when you return!
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Am: did you do anything with your rear brake line? I was able to install everything just fine without messing with it, but it seems like under severe flex particularly with the left wheel dropped it could be strained. For that reason alone I left the rear sway bar on still as that prevented too much droop.
Oh yeah, I've got camber bolts in the top mounting point already, so I'm hoping they can straighten it all up for me.
Thanks again
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Looks like one of those "best guess" reprograming services. Will probably do the basic "chip" stuff like raise the rev limiter, make the throttle more touch(if drive by wire), and possibly toggle with the shift points if it is an automatic.
The general consensus that i've come to after researching these is while they are better than nothing if you have intake/exhaust etc, they are far from a proper tune(I.E. custom dyno tune).
Those things being said, I have done absolutely 0 research on that particular one other than clicking the link just now.
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http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/138822-R50-Pathfinder-Progression-Trip-Thread
Rather than cross posting between forums and hijacking your thread further, I thought i'd just clip the link to my build/trip thread over on expedition portal. Long story short, it went about as well as could be expected and the lift is on. Has HORRIBLE positive camber currently but i'm hoping that will get resolved tomorrow with the alignment.
My measurements have me clearing with the roof racks on by about 3/4-1", but I may remove them just to be safe for my drive to work on monday and then can measure from the top of the car to the concrete bar. It is surprisingly difficult to measure a car's height!
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Yeah I'll be wearing gloves 3 shirts and a ski mask haha. I too have a fairly heavy sub in the back as well as an additionally 50lbs of safety gear so I imagine we are similar. Also I sourced the springs used so the initial break in period should be over I hope(in other words they should already have sagged to their specd height).
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No worries. I'd love to be able to install this in a garage, as it stands I will be installing in front of my townhouse in 20-25 degree weather. Yay.
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All you would need to do is find ways to lower the rear temporarily. You have a few easier options than pulling the rack:
Deflate the tires a little and crawl out
Borrow/find two wheels/tires (or donuts) from an older 2wd Frontier/HB (stocks were 26")
Load up the rear with heavy stuff
Compress the springs a little using ratchet straps to draw the axle closer to the chassis (take precautions here)
You can obviously do these up front, too (except loading it up), but only if you need more clearance. Good luck.
Yeah but I'm not doing that every day! That would get very old...I think it will clear based on the stock height specs, my calculations, and based off the info that ak has given. The question will be whether or not the rack has to come off.
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Thanks AK. So your tire diameter is almost 33 inches (like 32.7 or so), and mine are 30.5 Inches. So if I divide that difference by 2, and subtract it from your higher estimate of 6' 2.75", I should have an inch to spare if I leave the racks on. My doesn't haves rear spoiler either so if I remove the racks I should clear by 3" or more.
I think it's safe enough to roll the dice on, although it would really suck to have to pull it back off!
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Thanks AK. So your tire diameter is almost 33 inches (like 32.7 or so), and mine are 30.5 Inches. So if I divide that difference by 2, and subtract it from your higher estimate of 6' 2.75", I should have an inch to spare if I leave the racks on. My doesn't haves rear spoiler either so if I remove the racks I should clear by 3" or more.
I think it's safe enough to roll the dice on, although it would really suck to have to pull it back off!
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Currently sitting on almost 31's, so unless my math is failing if I remove the roof rails I should have a couple inches to spare, sound right?
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Ak: did you have a chance to measure how tall the rig is yet? I'm going to be installing mine this weekend and am being paranoid it won't fit into my garage at work when i'm done!
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Ok great thanks. If it is just a tick over six feet that'd be perfect. Just making sure mine will clear my 6'3 height for the garage at work when I'm done
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Ok great thanks. If it is just a tick over six feet that'd be perfect. Just making sure mine will clear my 6'3 height for the garage at work when I'm done
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Can you tell me the overall truck height to the top of the roof??
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Thanks guys, I had to redo one of them today as I realized I stupidly put the top hat on the wrong way. Once the spring tension was loosened I was able to move the top no issues. I ant believe the bearing on these are basically two pieces of plastic with grease between them...I have no idea how they actually work for longer than a mile!
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I agree that I don't think over tightening is the issue, and near as I can tell the strut shaft actually turns(or rather the strut body turns around ) everytime you turn. This is much different than the strut setups I'm used to where the nut is tightened down onto the bearing.
My concern is that I missed something somewhere which is causing binding.
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I just got done assembling all new strut assemblies, kyb excel G struts, AC 2" springs, new spring seats, mounts, bearing, and isolators.
What has me nervous is I cannot rotate the strut top by hand. I looked at the manual, and have everything assembled the only way I could figure out to assemble it. The bearing is sandwiched between the upper spring mount and the mounting bracket.
Is this just due to the force of the spring on the bearing or did I mess something up?
Thanks!
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So what is this noise I'm reading about having to drop the power steering rack and remove the alternator? I'm going to have to do this here shortly as i'm getting the tell tale click of the solenoid without the motor spinning once every few days now. I figure i'll do it at the same time as the lift kit install and this way my wife just thinks its one project
Thanks!
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You are doing pretty much the exact same thing as me. I went with the general grabber at2 in a 245/75/16 size, they fit the stock ride height and should look good still once my lift is on.
I will be installing the Ac kit along with new struts, shocks, and ball joints later this month. Take a look at my mini build thread at the top of this forum for more information/ideas and directions you can go. The only reason I went wth the Ac kit was because I found it used for 200+45 shipping.
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Went ahead and ordered two new KYB struts today off of amazon. Also placed the order for the OEM transfer case skid plate that fits, I'm officially over budget at this point so the center skid is going to have to wait, along with the mile marker hubs.
I took the springs out of the box to look at, am I correct in assuming that the front springs have a slight taper to them along with the last coil sanded flat on one side? I was slightly surprised because for one reason or another I assumed the rear springs would be longer, but the tapered ones with the flat side are longer than the others.
Thanks!
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Just finished this up about 10 minutes ago. I really appreciated your how to, although I deviated slightly and did not remove the throttle body.
For anyone about to do this, have some extra vacuum line on hand as a couple of mine broke upon trying to remove. I'm sure the act it is 24 degrees out didn't help, though.
For what it's worth all of mine were tight and most likely would never have come out on their own, but a decent amount of red lock tite on each screw will now make sure of that.
Got it all done in about 3 hours, including spark plug change while I was at it. This was doing the work behind my townhouse on the side of the street in freezing temps too, so I don't want to hear anyone's excuses!
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Go to the courtesy Nissan parts page, look up the diagram. You need virtually everything there that looks like it goes to the strut, and it costs about 300.00. I just went down this road and am opting to remove the struts and take them to a repair shop to have new springs and struts mounted using the existing components except for the strut top and bearing, those will be new.
Off the top of my head you will need: strut top, bearing, upper seat,lower seat, bump stop, dust boot, another seat of some sort, and quite a few nuts. It adds up faster than expected.
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Parts have started to arrive! So far I've got my new MOOG ball joints(so odd to me that I have to attach the boot myself...), new moog stabilizer bars, my used AC 2" lift springs, and the used KYB GR-2 Struts. The Bilstein 5100's are scheduled to arrive tomorrow, and Fleury is going to send me a front skid as soon as he gets one manufactured.
Unfortunately, one of the struts is stripped out where the main bolt attaches, so now i'm stuck trying to decide if I want to only buy one new strut or just get two new ones. I know in my head that I should replace them both, but I'm already over my projected budget and I haven't even bought the center skidplate, or manual hubs yet! The seller tossed them in I only paid for shipping so i'm not mad about it, although it would have been nice not to pay the 35.00 shipping if I end up getting two new ones.
I'm also hugely torn on whether or not to install this myself in my parking space or pay someone, if I had a garage it'd be a no brainer but working in the cold outside plain sucks.
Lastly, I've made myself paranoid about these power valve screws now so I may be tackling those along with new plugs Sunday before the game if it doesn't snow.
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Thanks pathmaker. I am going to go ahead and put the order in for the milemarker ones tomorrow. Ordered so far: moog balljoints, AC 2" lift and kyb struts, moog stabilizer links. This leaves: Front skid plate, center skid plate, and rear skid plate, rear bilstein shocks, mile marker hubs, and figuring out what on earth to order so I can pre assemble my struts(see other thread in this forum...)
I've got a "drop dead" date of 3/12 to get this all installed and working well before I take the the on a trip to PA to drop the family in York and then spend a day at Rausch Creek, so wish me luck!
Vibration in 4wd after lift
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
So I engaged my 4wd today for the first time after my lift to pull out onto a slippery road, and noticed that I have picked up a pretty severe vibration above 30mph while on the gas, in 4wd. Logic tells me the only drive line mechanical change while in 4wd after the lift would be the cv angles, and I must have a bad cv. Anyone with experience on this? 4wd was perfectly smooth not more than 2 days before the lift; so I doubt it is a coincidence. Gotta be a cv axle right??